Just a quick question, but my dad was saying that to be most efficient, both exhaust pipes should be of equal length to equalize the pressure in them. I am planning on going true dual this winter and would like to know the answer so I can plan the setup. Right now I am thinking of getting Hooker Super Comps, no cat or y-pipe, and dumping before the axle. With this setup the driver side exhaust will be slightly longer than the passenger, as it has to come across from the header to the stock exhaust location. So really all i need to know is will this make any difference?!? Thanks..

 

are you going to install a crossover pipe?? if so that should equalize alot of the pressure differences and give you a little power as well, and even still the top end power you gain will offset the small amount u MIGHT (and probably wont) loose compared to non dual exhaust.

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- David
88' GTA 5.7L TPI MODS---> air foil, K&N, Shift Kit, 180* therm, TB bypass, Gutted CAT, Flowmaster 80 Series Muffler added to Unkown CatBack, Ported Intake

http://www.geocities.com/david_angel_16

 

save your dual exaust money and get something else with it. Headers, SLP loudmouth will do just fine.

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-Tas
'89 Formula WS-6

305, TBI, 700R4, P.A.W. 14x3 open element with K&N, Milodon 160* thermo, functional Formula hood, cross-flow Flowmaster, '99z28 rear pipes and tips, Hooker 1-5/8" 50 state legal headers, Dynomax 3" I pipe (PN 44063 and 43248)
Super GRK_Taz World
F-Body Dual Exaust
EFI & Intake Options

 

Go true duals! (if it's worth the extra $$ to you) It was to me, maybe just because it's unique. However, I better get a very nice sound and a decent performance gain or I'm going to be mad! And that will do a whole lot of good because once you get mad it's all fixed like magic. I don't know--if it's worth the price, which will be AT LEAST $700-$800, do it.

 

cort... is the $700-800 everything, including headers?? Or is that just for the exhaust pipe after the headers??