I have heard this from a friend with a 1991 Z28 and I wanted to see if it was true. He said that to put in the SLP Headers they had to lift the engine up to fit the headers in. They also said it took them 3 hours to tighten one bolt. And they had to make a special wrench to get out the spark plugs. I just wanted to see if it was true because I wanted to put those headers on my 92 Z. What do you think?

 

I have the 1 5/8 headers on my 92RS. Did not have to raise the engine to slide in the headers. Passenger side (once you remove the smog equipement)went in easier than the driver side. I had to remove driver side valve cover and muscle it in. The only bolt I had a problem was the one locate on the passenger closet to the firewall. If I were you I used a different type of torx bolt.

 

I had to jack up the passenger side, but I was installing 1 3/4" SLPs with AIR and A/C. That's a LOT of stuff in the way.. It only took 5 minutes and most of that was cutting a woodblock to go on top of the bottle jack. What's ONE more bolt?

And re: the spark plugs: I just used a spark-plug socket and the appropriate combo wrench.

 

I put Hedman headers in my 84..took 10 hours. had to remove the alt, starter, ac compressor, and jack up the engine. Broke a plug, too.

 

shiitt i had to raise the engine out and put the headers in then lower the engine. i had to bolt those dang header bolts on before i bolt in the engine. it was hard as hell. next time i think i will go with some shorties.

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86 berlinetta
350cui w/.30 over
.526 hilift cam
hooker supercomps
3" duals
edelbrock streetmaster
holley 750 dp
bad asshauler

 

Never had to raise the motor and I installed the 1 3/4 SLP's. Pasanger side was the easiest. If your planning on doing it, get Stage8 header bolts. It only took me about 20 minutes to tighten them down.

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'91 Z-28 5.7, SLP 1 3/4 headers, 4 inch Mufflex/Flowmaster cat back, gutted cats, Edelbrock intake, 8.5mm Jacob wires, MSD Blaster coil, S&W subframe setup, Jacob Pro Street Ignition, complete Kenwood system.

 

My bolts keep coming loose. Damn exhaust leak. I am going to pull all the bolts, drill a hole through the head, and wire them so that they CAN'T come loos anymore! HAHA! Take that, you damn bolts!!!!

 

I had to raise the engine to get the driver's side header on my 92RS.These are 1-5/8" SLP's.
Rubbed against the steering column too, but when I installed them, the trans was out, so the motor was sagging in the rear.After putting the trans back in and bolting it to the crossmember,clearance was better.
This was with all the smog stuff out of the way.
-Rich-

 

My SLP 1 and 3/4" headers also rubbed the driver's side(steering column), but i took the one bolt out of the steering and moved the column. Hell of alot easier then jacking up the engine. It took me 4 hours by myself with a lift.

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*1989 RS
*Red, Daytona Turbo fiberglass hood, chrome 16x8 IROC wheels
*355 CID
*TPI ported plenum, SLP siamesed runners, Edelbrock high flow intake
*SLP 1 and 3/4 headers with 3 inch catback
*Richmond 3.73, Auburn Posi
*Modded 700-R4, 2800 stall converter
*eibach pro kit and hotchkis sturt tower brace

"There is no way you have a 350 in that car. They are made to have 305's and a 350 wouldnt fit"
-local parts store genius-

 

it is a pain in the but to put them in, but i dindt have to lift the engine up.

BUT, you will have to take the valve covers off so you have the added clearance of the lip from the covers.

the driver's side one is a royal pain in the a$$. but still, i didnt have to lift the engine. i have a different engine, but it shouldnt make a difference when talking abot headers.

oh..and i have the 1-3/4" ones without AIT tubes, which may make a difference. not sure.

also, the bolts are a pain in the butt too. i used allen head stainless bolts, which were actually pretty easy to get in. i went to sears and got a couple allen wrenches. i got one L shaped one with the ball end, and one L shaped one with the regular square end. The one with the regualar square end I took like an inch of the shorter side so i had more room to fit it. i also got a 3/8"socket with the right hex head on it. those three things ended up making it easy to install them.

and, i put my plugs in before i but the headers in.

hope this helps.

-brian


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1991 Camaro RS
GMPP 350 HO crate engine - Holley TB, MSD ignition, SLP exhaust, everything is new
700R4 - 2,400 stall converter, vette servo, shift kit
My car's webpage - z28boy.cz28.com
President - Central New York F-Body Association
Email - z28boy@twcny.rr.com
AIM - "Z28 Boy"

 

do you remember what lengh bolts you had to use? The slp's have those crazy extensions for the bolts.