Need a Jet-Hot like chrome paint (color-wise), high-heat.
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
Need a Jet-Hot like chrome paint (color-wise), high-heat.
Bought Hooker 2055's straight from Jet-Hot and am going to saw off, weld shut, and grind down where the AIR tubes came out. I need a high-heat chrome paint that will blend in with the Jet-Hot coating as much as possible. What do you guys recommend? Thanks!
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Thats gona be a hard one to match unless you have em re-coated.
Good Luck wiht jet hot Ive had a few htings from them go bad wiht in 2yrs.
I dono how true but I hear they dont coat 100% of the insides.
This is why I do all my own Ceramic coating now.
Good Luck wiht jet hot Ive had a few htings from them go bad wiht in 2yrs.

I dono how true but I hear they dont coat 100% of the insides.
This is why I do all my own Ceramic coating now.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Ceramakrome works great. Its deff. better then Jet Hot.
ceramakrome is produced by a company called Tech Line Products.
You can read all about it on my site Here
http://www.cecoatings.com/specialty.html
and a link at the verry bottom to Tech line if you like.
This is how you need to deal with ceramic products.
1. You need to pre-heat the part to 70ish *
2. Shoot on the Ceramic ( just like painting a car, I use a HVLP gravity feed gun)
3. Dry the ceramic around 165*
4. Base it at 500* for 1hr
5. beadblast it wiht #12glass bead or use 0000 Steal wool to buff the chalky coating off
6. Vibratory polish it out.
You can try and polish it out like you do basic aluminum pieces but its not gona look aything like when you vibratory polish em.
I'll put $$ on it to anyone who says it will. I know because I started out polishing em by hand 1st.
If you have any more questions fele free to drop me a e-mail.
ceramakrome is produced by a company called Tech Line Products.
You can read all about it on my site Here
http://www.cecoatings.com/specialty.html
and a link at the verry bottom to Tech line if you like.
This is how you need to deal with ceramic products.
1. You need to pre-heat the part to 70ish *
2. Shoot on the Ceramic ( just like painting a car, I use a HVLP gravity feed gun)
3. Dry the ceramic around 165*
4. Base it at 500* for 1hr
5. beadblast it wiht #12glass bead or use 0000 Steal wool to buff the chalky coating off
6. Vibratory polish it out.
You can try and polish it out like you do basic aluminum pieces but its not gona look aything like when you vibratory polish em.
I'll put $$ on it to anyone who says it will. I know because I started out polishing em by hand 1st.
If you have any more questions fele free to drop me a e-mail.
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
Man I just dont have the resources for something like that!
I really should have just welded them up before sending them to Jet-Hot, but it was too much effort, I just bought them straight from Jet-Hot. Can you imagine the shipping from Dealer to me, me to Jet-Hot, and back? Ouch. I'll take my chances with crappy paint or something.
Any more suggestions? Thanks.
I really should have just welded them up before sending them to Jet-Hot, but it was too much effort, I just bought them straight from Jet-Hot. Can you imagine the shipping from Dealer to me, me to Jet-Hot, and back? Ouch. I'll take my chances with crappy paint or something.
Any more suggestions? Thanks.
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
I just thought of an idea. There's no way I'll be able to "cure" my headers in an oven or anything, but what about using like a brazing torch or something, and just knowing how far to use it from the material? I only need to do it for 8 small parts, little circle areas on top of header primaries where I took off the AIR tubes.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Originally posted by jamesbob02
I just thought of an idea. There's no way I'll be able to "cure" my headers in an oven or anything, but what about using like a brazing torch or something, and just knowing how far to use it from the material? I only need to do it for 8 small parts, little circle areas on top of header primaries where I took off the AIR tubes.
I just thought of an idea. There's no way I'll be able to "cure" my headers in an oven or anything, but what about using like a brazing torch or something, and just knowing how far to use it from the material? I only need to do it for 8 small parts, little circle areas on top of header primaries where I took off the AIR tubes.
I wouldnt use a brazing tourch myself but it may work for what you need to do. :shrug:
Sell those on the classifieds and get a set wiht no air tubes.
Are yours hooker SuperComp long tubes?
E-mail me i may have a deal for you
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Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
They're 2055 shorties. You can't get them without AIR tubes. I would have got long tubes, but it just wasnt practical for my application, they're a pain in the *** to install, and I'd sacrifice ground clearance. The 2055's were a wise choice but I still have to deal with the tubes. There's no WAY I'm going to just promptly sell them in the classifieds.
Still need suggestions if there are any out there! Thanks.
Still need suggestions if there are any out there! Thanks.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
You dont really have many options. Cut and weld em.
Then just do what ever you can.
Any way its done isnt gona be that easy if you want it done right.
Then just do what ever you can.
Any way its done isnt gona be that easy if you want it done right.
I'm looking for a set of 2055's that's coated..
Let me know if you've decided to get rid of them..
wildgta@rogers.com
Let me know if you've decided to get rid of them..
wildgta@rogers.com
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Car: 1985 Berlinetta
Engine: 305 LG4 (stock)
Transmission: 700-R4
Originally posted by jamesbob02
I just thought of an idea. There's no way I'll be able to "cure" my headers in an oven or anything, but what about using like a brazing torch or something, and just knowing how far to use it from the material? I only need to do it for 8 small parts, little circle areas on top of header primaries where I took off the AIR tubes.
I just thought of an idea. There's no way I'll be able to "cure" my headers in an oven or anything, but what about using like a brazing torch or something, and just knowing how far to use it from the material? I only need to do it for 8 small parts, little circle areas on top of header primaries where I took off the AIR tubes.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 859
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From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Car: '90 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73's
Couldn't you just cut the tubes and cap them off? Some sort of cap or plug would probably look better than a mismatched coating.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Originally posted by Red Berlinetta
What about using a couple of halogen shop lights to heat the parts after coating? Those things get pretty damn hot!
What about using a couple of halogen shop lights to heat the parts after coating? Those things get pretty damn hot!
Your really just better off leaving the AIR tubes on and caping em off. or Selling then buy a uncoated set and then welding them up and having em coated.
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