I installed Hooker 2055's (Jet-Hot coated) this weekend, and I just thougt I'd throw in some comments on installation and how happy I am with them.

My current setup (what's important):
- Mostly stock '92 TPI 350 (L98)
- $200 Hooker Catback system
- No cats
- No AIR tubes
- A/C compressor installed, stock position

NOTES:
- I think not having the AIR tubes and cat makes the install tremendously easier, (that's what I'm guessing), and any of my installation notes can only be taken in the context of not having to mess with the AIR system or cats.
- I have not had the headers on long enough to determine how well the Stage 8 locking bolts I am using are working, but I am watching to see if they back out.
- Also, I do not yet know how difficult removing/installing the spark plugs will be, I installed the headers with the plugs already in.
- Having made the two previous statements, I will do anything I have to in order to keep these headers on my engine! I like them that much!


I got them straight from Jet-Hot for $545 shipped (mentioned Thirdgen.org membership and got a discount). When I received them, I cut off the AIR tubes and welded them closed, but did not grind them down all the way. I'm happy with how they turned out.

Removing the old system and manifolds was fairly easy if you have all the necessary tools.

The headers dropped in fairly easy as well. I had to take out a plug here and there to drop the headers in, but once the headers were "floating in place" but not installed, I put the plugs back in while manuevering the headers however necessary. Also, I removed the dipsitck tube first.

The Stage 8 locking header bolts (before the locks and clips) were terribly difficult to fully tighten (some easy, some fairly impossible), but it would be no different for other bolts. I didn't put all the locks and clips on yet, just the ones that were easy (I was in a hurry near the end)

Installing the y-pipe was fairly straight-forward. I cut out the old pipe first, then I before I put the new one on, I ran a tap through the threaded part of the header flange (some of the Jet-Hot had gunked up and prevented the bolt from threading in). It was somewhat difficult to line up the passenger side to get the bolt threaded straight (the A-arm is kind of in the way), but it IS possible, just take your time. The flange plates do not come close to touching, but they aren't supposed to. I tightened them up slowly, doing a couple cranks on one bolt, then the other, to tighten it up straight because the plates don't touch.

I then tied up the existing I-pipe with some wire and drove (softly!) to the nearest muffler shop and had it all welded up.

NOW! Let me just saw AWESOME. The headers did so much for me. The sound is much better. It also got rid of an ANNOYING rattle that plaqued me for 9 months, that I could not track down. Headers don't contain an amazing amount of horsepower, but it definitely pulls harder. I can tell it flows better already.

Like I said before, I do NOT know how well the bolts will stay, or how difficult the spark plugs are to change, but I will DEAL WITH IT!

I LOVE the headers. I'd do it all over again, even if it was twice as hard, if I knew it would sound this good, get rid of that RATTLE, and flow this well.

Highly recommended.

I will now field questions if there are any.

 

Cool, glad you're happy with them. I got mine for $520 shipped from Jet Hot Maybe they raised their prices.

 

awesome. I should be getting mine any time now.

 

just wait untill you have to change the plugs. then you won't love them so much. i had to make a tool to make the removal and inatallation go better.

 

I'm kind of expecting that. I'm going to take one of those spark plug sockets that you can put a wrench on the end, and cut it down to the minimum length, and drill out the middle. Then I'm going to use it with a ratcheting-type low profile wrench. I think that will save me a lot of grief, even if it doesnt get all the plugs. Also, I can unscrew the tips off the plugs if I need extra space.

If I still find its too difficult, or I cant get one out, I'll just break it off and get shorty plugs .

I'll tell you guys what my results are later!

 

Did you use a gasket between the headers and the y pipe or did the ball flange seal itself?

 

There was no gasket or donut. I'm pretty sure it's sealed. I cranked it down pretty hard, and evenly. I'm going to check under there this weekend and see what the situation is like.

 

bingo. thats what did. that works alot better

 

Great minds think alike I guess

 

I rather change plugs having headers anyday, those manifolds blocks the plugs pretty good. glad i never had to change plugs on my car with the manifolds on.

 

I had mine done about 4 months ago. The headers all the way back.

I love them

Had them installed. The dip stick had to be moved. That was the only weird thing. My installer did a really clean job.

Got on it a little leaving the shop and chirped the tires in 2nd.

Much better throttle response. I would do it again in a heart beat.

 

Well I made the short socket like I said I would - worked like a charm. Changing the plugs will only be a little more difficult than it was before, and it was really easy with my stock manifolds.

 

Here's my question for ya, Did all of your bolts go in?

I just got in from the garage, installing my 2055's, and here's my statements. On the passenger head, the hole closest to the firewall wasn't even close to lining up. There is another hole where the header bolt should go, but doesn't look like it's threaded. So, the passenger side is held in with 7 bolts vice 8. Also, I cut my AC box out, since I'm going AC less anyway, which made getting to the last two bolts much easier.

I used Stage 8 bolts, like a few of us, and I was wondering about the braces for the Smog pump and the AC compressor. I don't have the compressor anymore, obviously, but I do still have to worry about smog, until I get the car registered in another state. Do you think the smog pump will be alright without that brace?

Since I welded in SFC's, the Y pipe didn't fit at all. I have to get the Y pipe cut and welded, and a high flow cat put in. Just had a thought, since I have the welder and sawzall, why don't I just cut and weld it myself??

 

I couldn't get that bolt all the way in, so I left it out. It wasn't that it didn't fit, there just wasn't enough clearance to use tools on the bolt. Seems to work fine without it. If I end up blowing the gasket I'll replace it and figure something out, but for now its ok.

As for the smog pump brace, I don't know what you're talking about. I removed mine a long time ago. I have a feeling there might have been some type of brace that went behind it. I would bet it's necessary to avoid a wobble that would cause harmonic vibration in the serpentine system that could get out of control quickly. I really don't know, though.

 

I just finished my install on my 2055's and i didnt have a problem installing any of the header bolts. i hooked up the braces. the only problem i haad was that i broke the pass side temp sencor (DO NOT pull it out unprepaired.. iwas wearing lots of antirfreze) also the only problem with the plugs were that the third one back on drivers side i couldnt get a socket on. i used a smaller one and a vise grip.. sounds awesome though. i would reccoment them to any one. i got mine through jethot in january and was 564 shipped...

 

I was too lazy to read up, but I've covered this before, as have many guys. Get yourself a spark plug socket and grind it down to the minimum length you need to grip the plug, and then use a regular wrench on the socket, or a ratcheting wrench. Makes it really easy with the 2055's.

 

I think I'm gonna buy one of these. I'll check the auto part stores first though.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=43998

 

save some money and just grind down your spark plug wrench for free...

 

you also have to bore out the center of the socket

 

for less then $8.00, i don't think you can go wrong

 

What are these Stage 8 Bolt that I keep hearing about?
Do these headers require some special bolt to hold them on?

 

Over time regular header bolts will loosen up and can cause blown gaskets and other problems if you do not tighten them every so often. Stage 8 bolts simply prevent the bolts from ever coming loose plus they are stainless and will stay good looking. I have a brand new set for sale right now in the classifieds that will fit the 2055's perfectly if you are interested.

 

Stage 8 makes a set of locking header bolts. Very useful in my opinion. They bolts cannot loosen if the clip does not fall off.

 

Is anyone running a exhaust system with the 2055's and a hooker muffler (or two?) ?

If so, how loud are they really? Is the idle sound much louder than stock, or does it just sound meaner? I ask only because I'm going to be saving up for 2055's and get em Jet Hotted or go through ACS, and I'll be putting Hooker mufflers behind it too...

anyways, I come home at 2 or 3 in the morning a lot and I dont wanna wake up the neighbors when i'm coasting to my house in idle heh.... but i do want it to scream when i jump on it

 

i have the 2055's jet hot coated through Jet hot (i reccomend them highly and if you mention third gen you get a rather large discount 10 or 20 % i think its 20.) i run a 3 inch pipe to a flowmaster and its not extremely loud at idle. an when your on it, sounds great. not any resembelance to a f o r d poopstang. oh and i have no cats for off road use only. i still have all the air hooked up also.

-tony

 

Wow you really dug one of my posts up from the grave!

I installed the 2055's jethotted last year and back it up with no cats and the $200 hooker catback. I love how it sounds. You certainly wont wake anybody up with it unless you want to . It sounds great when you get on it, and has a nice low rumble at idle. I think you'll be quite happy with the combo.

 

A cutout sounds useful for you.

With my dads ZZ4 with a 2055s, 1 cat, and a hooker catback it was fairly loud for civil driving. It depends on the motor you have to determine how loud it would be.