est. header installation time
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: lima,ohio
Car: 89 formula 350
Engine: L98(350)
Transmission: 700R4
est. header installation time
how much time will it take to put a set of t.e.s. edelbrock headers on an 89 formula L98 with no smog eqp. and a.i.r. tubes removed know that I'll have to reweld the Y-pipe and any tips on getting the manifolds out i.e bolts out of manifolds especially the pass. side thanks
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
From: Toledo, OH
Car: '87 Formula
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
It really all depends on how the bolts for the manifolds/y-pipe are. If they are all rusted out and the nut is completely rusted on, it will take some time, but assuming all the bolts come off nicely, it should be a breeze. I had to cut the bolts that connected the manifolds to the y-pipe, took a while, but on the other hand, my brothers car, worse condition than mine, his bolts came out so easily when we had to change the driver's side head. It makes a world of difference when bolts come out nicely...
a LONG time
the hardest part in removing all the stuff before u can even get to the stock manifolds.
i did small things at a time over a few weeks period. and finally one weekend manifolds came off, and headers went in.
TAKE YOUR TIME!
the hardest part in removing all the stuff before u can even get to the stock manifolds.
i did small things at a time over a few weeks period. and finally one weekend manifolds came off, and headers went in.
TAKE YOUR TIME!
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 12,089
Likes: 125
From: SALEM, NH
Car: '88 Formula
Engine: LC9
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.89 9"
the hardest part in removing all the stuff before u can even get to the stock manifolds.
The bottom donut bolts on the manifold come out really quick with the impact and a deep 15mm socket. If they don't come out, they usually snap almost immediately and since all that is getting thrown out anyway who cars..
Lately though, I've been leaving the manifolds on the motors, and instead just cutting the y-pipe on both sides. That way whoever purchases it can just connect their exhaust to the manifolds.
Hell, sometimes I'll pull the motor + tranny in one shot and disconnect them once they're out on the floor..
-- Joe
sorry i should of said more info, before headers i ran open manifolds for awhile. anyway i also did a/c delete/ smog delete a few weeks before. that took awhile at least for me.
but like i said i had to do it in parts so i had time to go to work and stuff like that.
i had alot of things going on at the time of just doing headers.
no air tools for me, and a cramped 1 car garage.
but like i said i had to do it in parts so i had time to go to work and stuff like that.
i had alot of things going on at the time of just doing headers.
no air tools for me, and a cramped 1 car garage.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: lima,ohio
Car: 89 formula 350
Engine: L98(350)
Transmission: 700R4
got the headers on took about 7 hours from start to finish had to weld the y-pipe due to having dual convertor pipe fit pretty good but something is rubbing somewhere (can feel through car when driving) maybe hitting the a-arm ? and the o2 sensors seems to have gone crazy(according to a/f ratio guage)maybe need to put a heated one in . just don't know where the headers and or exhaust would be rubbing at the headers are edelbrock t.e.s. for the dual cat y-pipe. any help ?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,766
Likes: 2
From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
To actually pull the manifolds and drop in the headers, it took me about 6 hours with a few long breaks working by myself. The rest of the exhaust is a different story...
For the TES headers, here are a couple tips that might make things easier:
Passenger side collector bolts are a bitch to get in sometimes, as the flange swings around and hides behind the a-arm. You may have to put both bolts in at first, tighten one, then swing the flange around and tighten the other.
Watch the fitment of the y-pipe between the crossmember and oil pan. Mine hit the crossmember, had to put a small dent in part of it and actually shorten/bend it to make it fit correctly.
Do the passenger side first, so you save the easy side for last.
Passenger side collector bolts are a bitch to get in sometimes, as the flange swings around and hides behind the a-arm. You may have to put both bolts in at first, tighten one, then swing the flange around and tighten the other.
Watch the fitment of the y-pipe between the crossmember and oil pan. Mine hit the crossmember, had to put a small dent in part of it and actually shorten/bend it to make it fit correctly.
Do the passenger side first, so you save the easy side for last.
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 499
Likes: 12
From: Oak Harbor, WA
Car: 1990 IROC-Z
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.70
I added the Hooker 2055's. Took about 1 hour with air tools, the manifold bolts were a pain. Two bolts broke in the head and had to be drilled and ezout. Take your time and should go well.
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