Gimmie a list of all the things you guys think would be neccessary and or usefull to install all these components at once. Hooker 2055's, 3" catco cat, hooker catback, msd wires, made for you wire looms, and new plugs. Basically got any tips for a first timer???

 

Tools, a lift, a friend, a mechanic, a friend whos a mechanic

You should do individual searches for each part and then read whats there what problems people have had and tips to overcoming those issues. Your question is to broad and generic to give any specific answers to.

 

Plus a lot of random tools, a whole lot of time, a dictionary of vulgarity, a case of PB Blaster and a case of beer.

You're talking about two completely seperate installs- one ignition, one exhaust. The ignition is going to be the easier of the two- The exhaust may get hard with the removal of the manifolds. My advice is PB the bejezus out of the manifold bolts, then lightly/firmly walk a brass hammer back and forth on them for a while, then PB them again and wait a while. You really don't want to snap a bolt off- Trust me.

And maybe wait on installing the new plugs until you have the manifolds off- much easier to get to the driver's side by the firewall.

-Z-

 

Yea that's the order of operation Z... And the PB blaster is good advice from what I've read.. Thanks..

 

It may be easier to just cut the old exhaust off than trying to unbolt it all. A Saws-All or high speed cut-off wheel are helpful there.

I'm using Accel shorty plugs (276S, to be specific). A little more clearance between the boot & header tube that way.

It's best to not bring the beer out until the end of activities for the day, if you don't like fixing things that didn't really need to get broken.

 

I just did all of those 2 months ago, except for the wirelooms.

I put the plugs in after positioning the headers because I used the regular AC Delco's (I'll most likely have to break them to get a socket on them later) but without the header bolts in. The drivers side header went in without any provoking. The passenger side I removed the dipstick tube, valve cover, and motor mount pin and jacked it up about 2-3 inches to slide it in from the top.

Another note on the passenger side fit, there was some pipe that runs below the AC held in by 2 bolts. I can describe this more later, but it was in the way so I had to tuck it in underneath the AC canister more. I removed the bolt nearest the firewall and knocked the pipe back with a hammer near the overfill reservoir as to bend the bracket back.

For the y-pipe to cat clamp, get a band clamp (Walker P/N: 33272) which I just found out about and works beautifully.

For the passenger side exhaust hanger on mounting the hooker muffler, I bought a driver's side factory replacement hanger from the parts store. It mounted fine with a little filling of the bolt holes on the hanger. The hanger has many holes to choose from in the rubber to adjust your height, and you just get like a long 1/4" bolt (washers, and nut) to go through the bracket on the over-the-axle pipe.

I also made the AIR system completely functional. I bought an air injection repair kit that only included like 6" of silicone hose, a few hose clamps, and a small 10" metal pipe. I attached ~4" of silicone hose to the coverter's AIR tube, and I hacksawed the metal pipe to ~3" and then attached some heater hose to it to route to the steel pipe that comes down behind the firewall from the AIR diverter. It worked out quite nicely.

I ended up getting a set of MSD wires, all 90* boots. My taylor wires were fine, but some were 180* boots and only like 1 of the plugs could work with that.

That's all I can think of for now and I should get back to work. I'm happy with the results of the project although my car is quieter now since my cat's were hollow before. I passed emissions well below average with the new cat. Have fun and give yourself lots of time.

 

Thanks for your help guys.