dual 3 inch exaust
#1
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
dual 3 inch exaust
dual 3 inch mandrel bent pipes with exaust cutouts and X-Pipe. Race bullets out back.
Car has an awsome tone now with the x-pipe. It really gave it a one of a kind sound. Really smooth yet still has a bit of thump. also gained some ft lbs and hp as well.
I have perfect clearance over speed bumps and everything too so I think this is one of the better exausts I have installed (having went thru 4 systems)
Car has an awsome tone now with the x-pipe. It really gave it a one of a kind sound. Really smooth yet still has a bit of thump. also gained some ft lbs and hp as well.
I have perfect clearance over speed bumps and everything too so I think this is one of the better exausts I have installed (having went thru 4 systems)
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Re: dual 3 inch exaust
Originally posted by izcain
dual 3 inch mandrel bent pipes with exaust cutouts and X-Pipe. Race bullets out back.
Car has an awsome tone now with the x-pipe. It really gave it a one of a kind sound. Really smooth yet still has a bit of thump. also gained some ft lbs and hp as well.
I have perfect clearance over speed bumps and everything too so I think this is one of the better exausts I have installed (having went thru 4 systems)
dual 3 inch mandrel bent pipes with exaust cutouts and X-Pipe. Race bullets out back.
Car has an awsome tone now with the x-pipe. It really gave it a one of a kind sound. Really smooth yet still has a bit of thump. also gained some ft lbs and hp as well.
I have perfect clearance over speed bumps and everything too so I think this is one of the better exausts I have installed (having went thru 4 systems)
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
Yes they are hookers and the exaust hangs about 1 inch or so away from the floor so it has adequet movement.
Heres another pic
Heres another pic
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#12
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
sure thing man
kinda looks like low clearance but I acually have over 4 inches or more at the lowest point
kinda looks like low clearance but I acually have over 4 inches or more at the lowest point
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Car: 84 Camaro. 90 integra
Engine: LG4, 1.6 (402hp)
Transmission: 700r4, JDM ITR w/ kaaz LSD
i live here in washington also.. where did you get the exhaust done at?
#14
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
I built the exaust myself. No shop is ever going to do that kinda modification for our cars beings it is illegal for them to do so
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Car: 84 Camaro. 90 integra
Engine: LG4, 1.6 (402hp)
Transmission: 700r4, JDM ITR w/ kaaz LSD
yeah..... thats why i was kinda wondering, because that looks really nice
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Car: Formula, a big red brick.
Engine: A Ford 351 Windsor... ?
Transmission: Dodge 727
Originally posted by mw66nova
it looks really good, other than the fact that i can see day light between the pipes and the car. i like mine tucked a bit harder, like this:
i have about 5" at the lowest point on mine, and the muffs aren't the lowest point. they are about 6" off the ground.
it looks really good, other than the fact that i can see day light between the pipes and the car. i like mine tucked a bit harder, like this:
i have about 5" at the lowest point on mine, and the muffs aren't the lowest point. they are about 6" off the ground.
#21
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mandrel bends i am using are the hedman x-tensions that bolt right onto the collector. i am just using a universal exhaust hanger on the back behind the muffler. i got the hangers from Advance Auto and they are just pieces of rubber (looks like old cut up tire or something) with some holes drilled in it and a piece of metal on the end that you can stuff under a muffler clamp. i just drilled a hole on either side of the car right under/behind the back seats and put a bolt through right there.
here is an old picture of an old exhaust on my first camaro. this shows how i have the hangers.
here is a pic of the new exhaust from the back, and if you look REALLY closely, you'll see the hangers.
here is an old picture of an old exhaust on my first camaro. this shows how i have the hangers.
here is a pic of the new exhaust from the back, and if you look REALLY closely, you'll see the hangers.
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Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
I wonder what the suspension set up is like. It looks like he has bigger tires and possibly air shocks?. What is the story of the panhard bar? I don't see it in the pick.
*Nevermind, I see it now*
*Nevermind, I see it now*
#23
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
295/50/15's are the tires and yes I do have air shocks. I also have lakewood adjustable trac bars.
mw66nova, do you have an H or X pipe installed in your exaust. The reason why I let the exaust hang a lil lower was so that I could install the X-pipe which will net you another 25ft lbs +. I also wanted it to be away from the floor a little bit so that it had flex to the exaust which is something you have to have. if you tuck it to close to the floor your a fire just waiting to happen since there are no heat shields present.
mw66nova, do you have an H or X pipe installed in your exaust. The reason why I let the exaust hang a lil lower was so that I could install the X-pipe which will net you another 25ft lbs +. I also wanted it to be away from the floor a little bit so that it had flex to the exaust which is something you have to have. if you tuck it to close to the floor your a fire just waiting to happen since there are no heat shields present.
Last edited by izcain; 06-02-2005 at 09:42 PM.
#24
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i do have an h-pipe. i, however, do not think that an x-pipe is going to automatically add 25+ ftlbs. especially in your setup having it back as far as you do. you want to have the crossover as close to the front as possible. not really sure why you put cut-outs in the exhaust at all. mine was also SUPER cheap. i put mine together for a bit over $300 and that included the headers.
how do you think that there will be a fire? there are plenty of things between me and the exhaust. it does get a bit hotter, but i have been driving this thing everyday for the past 2 years without ever having issues.
my system doesn't rattle at all, but i also have solid motor mounts, so nothing moves or flexes.
how do you think that there will be a fire? there are plenty of things between me and the exhaust. it does get a bit hotter, but i have been driving this thing everyday for the past 2 years without ever having issues.
my system doesn't rattle at all, but i also have solid motor mounts, so nothing moves or flexes.
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Originally posted by izcain
I also wanted it to be away from the floor a little bit so that it had flex to the exaust which is something you have to have. if you tuck it to close to the floor your a fire just waiting to happen since there are no heat shields present.
I also wanted it to be away from the floor a little bit so that it had flex to the exaust which is something you have to have. if you tuck it to close to the floor your a fire just waiting to happen since there are no heat shields present.
The only place heat sheilds are present OEM is above the cat. converter and the muffler, which is an inch or so away for the gas tank. The I-pipe is unshielded.
Warm floorboards only make for uncomfortable cabin temps after extended driving periods on hot days.
The jute padding under the OEM carpet is fairly resistant to spontaneous combustion. The rubber backer the carpet is bonded to... not extremely flammable and the nylon cut pile carpet... doesn't really burn at all. If your floorboard is getting hot enough from your exhaust to catch things on fire.. you've got some kind of problem going on.
Just my opinoin..
That is a well made looking setup though.
#26
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
The X-pipe is a dyno proven performer and if you don't think so just check it out in several of the performance mags. they give you 25+ in the usable RPM range. and it doesn't matter where you install the piping it's what it does is why it makes the power. Smoothing the pulses so that when one cylinder pulses the other one hits helping it to push one another creating a scavenging effect. My setup cost me 140 bucks (just bought the materials) and I built it myself hows that for budget .
I like your setup mw66nova but I just think it would be a lil too much drone inside the car since it looks like it is dumped under the car. I like my sound out the rear........ Really it's all in what people prefer. Some people prefer different things then others. I like your setup as well as my own.
I like your setup mw66nova but I just think it would be a lil too much drone inside the car since it looks like it is dumped under the car. I like my sound out the rear........ Really it's all in what people prefer. Some people prefer different things then others. I like your setup as well as my own.
#27
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BS. there is no way you built that ENTIRE setup for $140 including headers. those things are like $500 w/ coating!
there is no way that a crossover of any kind will add exactly this amount or more on all motors. some motors will be effected more and others less. there are too many factors to it than that. and it does matter where you put the piping. you want the crossover to be close to the collectors so your exhaust doesn't cool too much before it gets to the x-pipe.
with that said. you have an extremely good hand at fabrication and i commend you on your setup. it looks really good. if i were to change it any, it would be to move it up against the body, and to delete the cutouts and put the x-pipe closer to the collectors.
if you are so certain that it will add that much though, would you be willing to stick in on a dyno with the x-pipe and a set of straight pipes to compare? no doubt in my mind that it does increase power, that's why i have an h-pipe in my setup. however, i don't think that it added THAT much over just straight pipes with no crossover.
oh, and fwiw, performance mags dyno claims have been proven wrong time and time again.
there is no way that a crossover of any kind will add exactly this amount or more on all motors. some motors will be effected more and others less. there are too many factors to it than that. and it does matter where you put the piping. you want the crossover to be close to the collectors so your exhaust doesn't cool too much before it gets to the x-pipe.
with that said. you have an extremely good hand at fabrication and i commend you on your setup. it looks really good. if i were to change it any, it would be to move it up against the body, and to delete the cutouts and put the x-pipe closer to the collectors.
if you are so certain that it will add that much though, would you be willing to stick in on a dyno with the x-pipe and a set of straight pipes to compare? no doubt in my mind that it does increase power, that's why i have an h-pipe in my setup. however, i don't think that it added THAT much over just straight pipes with no crossover.
oh, and fwiw, performance mags dyno claims have been proven wrong time and time again.
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Originally posted by izcain
[B]The X-pipe is a dyno proven performer and if you don't think so just check it out in several of the performance mags. they give you 25+ in the usable RPM range.......My setup cost me 140 bucks (just bought the materials) and I built it myself hows that for budget .
[B]The X-pipe is a dyno proven performer and if you don't think so just check it out in several of the performance mags. they give you 25+ in the usable RPM range.......My setup cost me 140 bucks (just bought the materials) and I built it myself hows that for budget .
http://www.mustangexhaust.com/tech/HvsX/HvsX.htm
I must know your connection on pipe as well. I spent nearly $180 on my duals using only 2.5" pipe (collector to rear)... and that price includes making my (original) mufflers for $8/pr. I well know 3" isn't cheaper.
#29
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
I will admit that the headers were extra. The exaust from the headers back was 140 bucks though. But can I ask, what does heating have to do with smoothing out the exaust pulses? I put the cutouts in there just to see if I made more with open exaust or less. I would be more then willing strap the car on the dyno with both setups and print out the sheets. Im not lookin for an argument or anything but the X pipe will net you a gain! regardless of how close it is to the collecters. I ran an H pipe in there but with the compression and the power the car was producing it still had to much pop from the cylinders. The X-pipe alleviated this problem.
What size pipe and everything are you running? you are able to get tighter bends with 2 1/2" but with the 3 inch I am running it is harder to get the sharper mandrel bends.
Thats a good article on the H vs X pipe. I have connections for pipes because I work at an exaust shop, so everything is at cost.
What size pipe and everything are you running? you are able to get tighter bends with 2 1/2" but with the 3 inch I am running it is harder to get the sharper mandrel bends.
Thats a good article on the H vs X pipe. I have connections for pipes because I work at an exaust shop, so everything is at cost.
Last edited by izcain; 06-02-2005 at 11:25 PM.
#30
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i am running 2.5" pipe.
i am using hedmans "X-tensions" that are just an s-bend with a collector flange on it so i can bolt it up to the collector of the headers. they make them in 2.25, 2.5, and 3" versions.
and because you work at an exhaust shop and get hook ups and discounts, it automatically throws your "budget build" out of the water. average joe can buy everything i bought from jegs or summit and be on the road for under $325 w/ headers. if i were to take my car to you and have you do what you did to your car, it'd cost me $400+, that's with me already having the headers. shoot, retail on the x-pipe is normally in the $90 range and the muffs you used are in the $40 each range and the tips, if stainless are normally gonna run you $50 for the pair. so thats $220+ not to include the 8'+ of 3" tubing you used.
oh, and the hotter the air, the more velocity it will carry. if you smooth out the pulses when there is higher velocity, it will more effective then if you were to smooth out colder, denser, slower air. by smoothing out the hotter air when it moving faster, it slows the exhaust down less later on in the system.
i am using hedmans "X-tensions" that are just an s-bend with a collector flange on it so i can bolt it up to the collector of the headers. they make them in 2.25, 2.5, and 3" versions.
and because you work at an exhaust shop and get hook ups and discounts, it automatically throws your "budget build" out of the water. average joe can buy everything i bought from jegs or summit and be on the road for under $325 w/ headers. if i were to take my car to you and have you do what you did to your car, it'd cost me $400+, that's with me already having the headers. shoot, retail on the x-pipe is normally in the $90 range and the muffs you used are in the $40 each range and the tips, if stainless are normally gonna run you $50 for the pair. so thats $220+ not to include the 8'+ of 3" tubing you used.
oh, and the hotter the air, the more velocity it will carry. if you smooth out the pulses when there is higher velocity, it will more effective then if you were to smooth out colder, denser, slower air. by smoothing out the hotter air when it moving faster, it slows the exhaust down less later on in the system.
Last edited by mw66nova; 06-02-2005 at 11:38 PM.
#31
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
look man the average joe doesn't usually need a dual setup cause they aren't making more power then the single 3 or 4 inch system couldn't handle..... race bullets are in summit for like 25 bucks a piece or so not 40+. ....... I built the X-pipe myself and any joe could build that as well. everything could be obtained for the average joe and it would cost less then 300 total to get it done if the guy was doing it himself.
Look man I don't wanna go back and forth arguing or anything I like your setup and I like mine. I think your setup would be easier for just the average guy to do in his backyard beings that there is no serious obsticles or anything to overcome.
What engine you running? I used to have a built up 305 and I liked it, it was a reliable setup and never broke and I ran the dogpiss outa it.
Look man I don't wanna go back and forth arguing or anything I like your setup and I like mine. I think your setup would be easier for just the average guy to do in his backyard beings that there is no serious obsticles or anything to overcome.
What engine you running? I used to have a built up 305 and I liked it, it was a reliable setup and never broke and I ran the dogpiss outa it.
#33
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
What do you have done to it? I had a 305 with 305 torquer heads ported and polished, a 270H comp cam, roller rockers, street dominator with 750DP holley, and a hypertech coil and accel wires. Hooker shorties and a 3 inch hooker aerochamber exaust. I liked it. ran in the 13's. Loved the revs but hated the weight when there was more then one guy in the car lol
#34
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bone stock 416 heads, holley street dominator intake, holley 600 vacuum secondary (needs a double pumper), 9.5:1 compression, crane blue racer cam: .442"/.465", 214/224, crane energizer aluminum rockers, 2400 stall ati 10" converter, built 700r4, 4.10, 275/60/15 mt et street radials. ran 13.7's @ 100mph w/ a 1.82 60' with some strange bogs coming out of the hole. that's where i think the double pumper will help out in the ease of tuning. again, with hedman longtubes and the above exhaust. i think it runs pretty good, and if i can ever get it figured out, that mph is good for LOW 13's. make a little more power and the car should dip into the 12's. race weight is 3300lbs with driver.
#35
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
Thats a sweet setup! i know my 305 loved the revs but hated weight torque was it's downfall. mine had no bog though but I had the 750 dp which everyone thought was to much carb but it was really snappy. I wish I would have ran it with that setup I had just about the same exact setup as you except for the 305 torquer heads I had on it from world sportsan.
Last edited by izcain; 09-26-2006 at 03:15 PM.
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Car: 1990 iroc
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by mw66nova
i do have an h-pipe. i, however, do not think that an x-pipe is going to automatically add 25+ ftlbs. especially in your setup having it back as far as you do. you want to have the crossover as close to the front as possible.
i do have an h-pipe. i, however, do not think that an x-pipe is going to automatically add 25+ ftlbs. especially in your setup having it back as far as you do. you want to have the crossover as close to the front as possible.
that being said if you are only making 250rwhp or something you are not going to see a huge difference.
I think the number he is quoting is high as well for a naturally aspirated car say making 350hp or less but I have seen boosted cars pick up that much. you may even pick up that much on a 500hp motor at the upper band n/a.
I have an 01 mustang as well. there is this place in atlanta that builds very high ouput cars. I have seen dyno after dyno of them picking up tons of power on cars with dr. gas x-pipe. like 20hp 20lbs+ over an offroad h. the crosover on this pipe is 18" from the collector.
#38
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
They are CGS chassis sub frame connecters. I like them they really made the car stouter. Cornering and just overall ridgity were greatly improved.
Gearrrhead, From what I have heard we both have the same information. The engine thats in this car (mine) is est. over 550hp without NOS.
Gearrrhead, From what I have heard we both have the same information. The engine thats in this car (mine) is est. over 550hp without NOS.
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Car: 1990 iroc
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by izcain
They are CGS chassis sub frame connecters. I like them they really made the car stouter. Cornering and just overall ridgity were greatly improved.
Gearrrhead, From what I have heard we both have the same information. The engine thats in this car (mine) is est. over 550hp without NOS.
They are CGS chassis sub frame connecters. I like them they really made the car stouter. Cornering and just overall ridgity were greatly improved.
Gearrrhead, From what I have heard we both have the same information. The engine thats in this car (mine) is est. over 550hp without NOS.
the more output you engine has the more power you gain from the scavaging effect. Many people are scheptical though. usually there is more power in a correctly tuned exhaust that open exhaust.
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Car: 1991 rs, 1992 z/28
Engine: 363 ci chevy sb
Transmission: 700-r4
so i guess you are running a fuel cell? that is a thought because i dont really like the tinny sound of a race car with dumps. how do you like the lakewood t-bars?
#41
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
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Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
The trac bars are sweet! I just need to get them adjusted properly since they are adjustable
#43
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Car: 87 firebird formula
Engine: 350 sbc
Originally posted by oifish
Could you post some sound clips of that, WOT mabye, because that has to sound badass.
Could you post some sound clips of that, WOT mabye, because that has to sound badass.
Exhaust clip plz!
#44
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
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Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
as soon as I get my digital setup for the sound I Will try to get a clip on here.
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Car: 89 camaro RS
Engine: 350 bored 3 over, edelbrock 600cfm carb,Edelbrock Performer intake,
Transmission: 700R4, shift kit
hey izcain what kind of wheels and tires are on your car
#46
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
The rims are centerline's with a center knockoff.... I forget what number though........ the rears are 295/50/15 but recently I switched over to some 295/65/15 mickey ET street and they look a lot better and take up the entire wheel well. Plus they hook good :-)
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Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Heres another for ya.. NOT MINE.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...5/DSC01674.JPG
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...5/DSC01672.JPG
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...5/DSC01675.JPG
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...5/DSC01676.JPG
Best I could get with the ground wet and uncut grass
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...5/DSC01674.JPG
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...5/DSC01672.JPG
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...5/DSC01675.JPG
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/mis...5/DSC01676.JPG
Best I could get with the ground wet and uncut grass
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Car: 1988 formula 350
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Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 373
I don't really like the Exhaust on that white camaro with the red stripes. it looks dumb running under the rear end . just my 2 cents. On my 1990 RS full time drag car . i just have my headers and 3'' dumps ...she's a lil loud ..but what the hell you can't hear the RiceRockets reving there 4 bangers ... when i'm running
Last edited by stroked1990RS; 06-19-2005 at 12:54 PM.
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Car: 1983 Camaro Z28
Engine: 584
Transmission: TSI Glide
Axle/Gears: Quick performance 9 inch
I like dumps but having it all the way out the back is better for me cause I like to be able to hold a conversation with my passengers once in a while since the car see's a lil bit of street use once in awhile. ;-)
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