i ordered the headers on friday, now what do i need in the way of gaskets, spark plug wire, and other stuff that might come with the kit but i shouldnt use. I hear the gaskets that come with the kit are crap, and the spark plug wires will melt. I also need to know where to get this stuff at, and hopefully at an auto parts store cause im sick of ordering stuff and waiting for it.

anything else i need?

thanks

 

Dan i already told you what spark wires to get... you need ones with all 90* boot ends... if you go to any auto part store.. ask them for a set of 94 full size chevy truck wires.. or if you want to be specific...

94 Chevy Suburban spark plug wires..

header gaskets.. ask for the Mr. Gasket header gaskets for 87-95 chevy 350ci... if you are in an AutoZone, or pepboys.. they usually have a section in that store where they have "dress up" part for engines.. the gaskets are there.. just look on the back of the package, it will tell you what they fit.. they should be $19.99

these spark plug wires wont melt or anything.. just get a set of standard bosch plugs..

i dont know about Edelbrock.. if they supply the header bolts with their kit... if they dont.. you can still go to any autozone or pep boys and get a set, they will be hex heads, black in color.. if you need help, as the people.. they will be for standard length 350ci header bolts.. they are common and are also in the "dress up" section.

anything else?

while you're at the store.. pick up a Haynes or Chilton repair manual.. $14.99

 

but i dont have a 350....

already got a manual btw

 

a 305 and a 350 are the same from the outside ....those bolts and gaskets should fit with no problem....just like those headers are for a 350/305

 

dan.. the only difference between the 305-327-350-383 are the bore sizes.. and internale stuff..

what fits a 350 externally, will fit your 305


if you already have the manual... READ IT!!!

 

the manual is pretty gay, they just say take of the manifolds and "you might have clearance issues near the AC so watch out" pppppffffff like that helps. of well im sure i can figure this out

 

i need heat resistant spark plug wires according to edelbrock....what do i do? Yes, i am retarded.

 

not to offend..
but WOW..

Exhaust is pretty straight forward. Unbolt.. replace gasket.. slide in headers, rebolt... Then get under, bolt up everything as it fits...

 

told u im retarded, i wanna do it right

 

when i had my hooker catback put on, i went to an exhaust shop and had them install everything... $40 for the install.. look around, $40 was worth it to me, cause its not fun doing a complete exhaust on a car that is only 2' off the ground

 

yeah, youre pretty gay...have u even installed headers?

 

Make sure you have shorty wrenches available in whatever size your header bolts turn out to be. When I put my 1-3/4" SLP's, it was a PAIN to get to some of the bolts.

 

How old are you? 19? Same age as me.. And I dont go around calling people trying to help me gay.

For your information, yes I have installed headers and complete exhaust systems. I was just saying, installing a system with two feet of clearance isnt fun. It was worth it to me to use my exhaust guy's lift. Something came up that day so he just said he would install it for $40. I drove the car on open headers to the exhaust shop... guess who installed them? Me.

Grow the hell up, man. It was just a suggestion to make it easier on you, since you haven't done exhaust.

EDIT:: When i said i had an exhaust shop install everything, i meant catbackwise. The guy needed to make my y-pipe and he was taking forever (kept leaving or sitting around bull****ting with people) and i had other things i had to do that day, so he put most of it up. I didnt do it because i couldnt be there.

 

ur right, i got the drivers side header off and it was difficult with the long wrenches i have, i guess i will have to buy some shorty wrenches

 

Dan im seriously going to come out there.. find you.. and kick you right in the ***...

99% of all the new spark plug wires out there ARE HEAT RESISTANT!!!!... would i reccomend something that you could not use? im useing the same damn wires.. i wouldnt tell you to use something that i wouldnt..

quit being a homo... stop freakin out.. listen to advice or im taking my toys and going home!!

 

im almost done!! I just pulled out the drivers side manifold with no problems, and threw the rusty POS away. I only have on more bolt left on the passenger side and there is plenty of clearance if u get under the car. I dont know why so many ppl whine about this, its NOT that hard! If I can do it, anyone can...

here is a pic of the car now





and the difference

 

anyone there?

 

Get er done!

 

ahahhahahha Dan... good job... BUT.. you have yet to tackle the dreaded passenger side..


if you cant figure out the dipstick being in the way... slip the header OVER the dipstick... and *&^%'s sake take your spark plugs out before you put the header in.. you're going to need to be able to twist it in there.. and you dont want to break a spark plug..

OH and the last thing... have a really really fun time with the last bolt near the fire wall on the passenger side.. you're going to wish you never had A/C

oh and before you start putting the headers on... take that damn stock Y pipe off.. its going to run into the headers..

 

...and don't forget the motor mount bolts....and a jack.....and a piece of wood for the oil pan....and some neosporin for the cuts after doing the passenger side................


Thats why sears makes the little shorty wrenches. But, when you have a header leak, you will know which bolt is loose.

 

motor mounts and jack??? i never had to lift my engine.. mine fell right in... i have NO A/C..

whats wrong with yours??

 

I didn't even have to jack the motor or pull the plugs on the pass side, but as for the drivers, it needed about 3/4" of jacking to slide her in. These are SLP's: can't remember the last set of edelbrocks I did, but I do remember having to use a jack. And not having A/C is a blessing!!

 

you should get some percy aluminum gaskets.. resuable and DO NOT LEAK A BIT. I love them, no more ****ing exhaust tick

 

i have all the bolts off on the passenger side, all i have to do is unbolt the manifold from the y-pipe. I have ac and i had NO problems getting to any of the bolts..... I know not to leave the plugs in, i just had em barely in there cause i was worried about rust fallin in there. People think that you have to lift the engine or remove the AC, but you dont if u get under the car and see the plenty of room that is there. I spent 20 bux on new platinum plugs so i dont have to change them again for a while.

thx for the help so far. The only other thing im worried about is the exhaust shop messing up the pipe between the cat and y pipe (about 2 feet of pipe...i will need custom bent 3 inch) There is only one exhaust shop near me and they messed up a car of mine and i ended up selling it anyway. The dude i sold it to has gone there twice and they still havent fixed it right...

 

ok, how do i get the drivers side header in, i need to disconnect something with the steering shaft, which bolt do i take off...will anything fall off when i do this?

 

 

ok, the instructions dont say which way the gasket goes....does it matter? Does the side that says edelbrock all over on it (kinda shiny side) go against the headers or engine?

 

When I put them on, I put the back side on the head (the side with the dangling crap left over from punching the holes for the exhaust ports in the gasket). Does it really matter? Probably not.

 

ok, just checkin to see if it matters.

My brake lines clear the drivers side header by about 2 inches, the instructions say i should "form brake lines to clear pipes". The pipes clear, but will there be too much heat near that brake line?

 

Bend them as far away as reasonably possible without breaking or kinking them. 2 inches should be fine though.

 

gaskets that say edlebrock? Dan you refuse to listen to advice.. go ahead... use those crappy gaskets.. and in 2 weeks you're going to need to change those pieces of crap out and do it all again.. they are cheap, paper, do you think paper gaskets work well with exhaust heat? no..

you also wasted your money buying platinum plugs... platinum run hotter.. and have been known, on the TPI board, to cause problems.. you should have stuck with the stock AC Delco plugs..

and i wasnt refering to the STOCK passenger side bolts.. i was refering to putting the NEW bolts in with the headers.. the primary will be in your way and a beotch to get at..


and DO NOT bend the brake lines.. you'll put a kink in the line, then you're screwed and have to get a whole new line..


rock on man.. im not going to tell you i told you so even though ive done this job 6 times... on my own cars, and other peoples.. but dont worry... i have no experience in this..

 

but so many people tell me they used the edelbrock gaskets and never had leaks. I have had a lot of ppl contradict you....oh well. If they leak i dont care, the new ones arent as hard to take off

 

live and learn, do what ever you feel is necessary dan, keep peoples advice in mind but your the one calling the shots....

 

well its been a few days and Dan has been pretty quiet...

i think the passenger install is not as easy for him as he thought..

 

no, cause i got f**ked over by a damn stripped nut that holds on a damn heat shield. this bolt doesnt even keep the headers on, its just for the heat shield and its stripped. There is only one header bolt left, i cant do anything now. I tried bolt loosener spray (i did this for every header bolt btw), i used 6 pt sockets, and i used craftsman stripped bolt remover. The bolt remover made it worse. I really dont know what to do, im gonna tryi to dremel the nut off but i dont have much clearance... Im starting to run out of money. I need help, im doin this all myself

 

today i tried to dremel the nut without much luck

 

did you not soak these bolts with WD40 or PB blaster or anything a day BEFORE you started? everything looks dry.. thats why i ask..

what you need then.. you can get from Sears or Checker Auto.. or some place.. they are open nuts that remove stripped nuts, they are reverse threaded to it grabs on to it to remove it.. they sell them in sets... EVERYONE should have a set..


OR what you could do.. is just take your dremel.. cut the heat shield off around the nut, then there is no point to removing the nut... right?

 

no no no. I said i soaked it in liquid wrench beforehand, like i did to every bolt. It is not dry. I ALREADY tried the sears bolt out sockets, and i already tried the dremel....no offense but i hate to retype stuff i already said

cutting the heat sheild wont do sh*t cause the socket wont fit over the nut and then onto the header bolt. Besides, its impossible to get the dremel to cut like that, there is no room.

 

Welcome to the world of "bolt-ons". Is there a nut made onto the stud behind the heat shield and mangled nut? Hard to tell from your pic. Did it spin a little and then stop? If there is a nut made onto the stud behind your mangled heat shield mess, and you got it to turn a little, cutting the heat shield will let the whole pile of sh#t spin removing your last bolt. If not, you're going to have to be creative and grind down the nut/stud until you hit the heat shield. A dremel is kind of weak for this application. I would use a carbide bit in a die grinder to grind it down. Be sure and wear proper eye protection because bits of metal will be flying everywhere. Good luck!!

 

i cant get the dremel to cut the top portion of the heat shield, and i dont think that will do anything, the bolt is to tight...i dont have any exotic tools..

here is an illustration...hope it helps

 

...the exotic tool you seek is a pair of tin snips, or at sears they call them aviation snips . $40 for a three pack. If you get it cut partially, use a screwdriver to pry it around. It's cheapa$$ steel that will bend and break easily (like a coathanger). Just wiggle it a little.

 

if u notice in the pic, the shield is all torn up so i know how to wiggle it. Im not interested in spending any more money tho, im str8 broke. I'll figure something out, but im still open to suggestions

 

"IF" there is a bolt behind the mangled nut as in you pic, the "only" way to remove it is to cut the heat shield at the bolt so as the whole assembly can spin freely. The bolt broke loose, the nut holding it to the heat shield didn't, heat shield will not let bolt spin. Cut the heat shield around your bolt/nut fiasco and you will free your last bolt. Post pics of what's left of the heatshield when you get it all out.

 

well i made a mark to see if ive ever turned the bolt, and the nut hasnt moved since day one....its plain stuck......and there is a header bolt behind it.....u can see it on your own car

i'll try what u say tho

thx for the help so far

 

damn is that header bolt made out of gold o what ? lol j/k ...hey try drillin that nut off ....use a drill and a couple of drill bits....sounds bad but you might never know....go crazy on that nut ....yup and there's always trouble on header install's dont worry man you should find a way just keep trying and tryin dont quit its so worth it at the end

 

we got a manifold down! I finally got it off after 5 days of working on it. Now all i need to know is how to slide the header in there...should i put on the spark plugs first? On the drivers side, it was very difficult to tighten the spark plugs because i put them on after the header. I have a feeling it will be the same way on the passenger side.

 

slide the header in 1st .. put the 1st bolt in very loosely and then put another bolt in the 2nd to the last loosely.. put the spark plugs in.. thats how i do it..

you're going to need a small 3/8" or 7/16" (wich ever size header bolts you bought) open end wrench to get at the very last bolt.. its very awkward because the damn A/C box and fire wall are in the way..

 

Here is my homemade plug socket. It is a 1/2" drive 5/8" craftsman spark plug socket that I cut to about an inch long. It can be tightened with a 13/16" box wrench on the end. Since it is 1/2" drive, the hole in it will go over the spark plug and it fits great in tight spots.

 

hey, thats a frickin nifty idea about the spark plug socket! I gotta make one of those. What kinda of tool did u use to cut it?


btw, the kit came with bolts...i cant seem to get the header in though, it keeps scraping against the valve cover. I only tried it a few times before work today so maybe i can get it to fit...

the kit came with spacers....do i need those for the passenger side?

im left with one f**ked up dipstick..lol. Anyone know how much a dip stick is?

 

SAWZALL

If you don't have one, you need one.

Call a dealer on the dipstick. It's probably 10-15 bucks. You only will need spacers where something hooked up to a manifold bolt (accesory bracket). In that case you have to re-use the stock bolt also.