Hookers 2210 Modification Complete
#1
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Hookers 2210 Modification Complete
We all know the problem with the long tubes headers and that stubborn #7 plug, well instead of me bringing the ball pin hammer to it I decided to look into a long term solution for permanent fix. What I did was cut that dreadful #7 tube off and replace it with a bigger 2 1/2 radius J-bend tube. The tube was tig welded for the nice bead. Now I can fit my regular spark plug and Taylor 90* boots without a problem.
Here is a few before and after:
1st picture shows where the plug is hitting the tube.
Here is a few before and after:
1st picture shows where the plug is hitting the tube.
Last edited by DTL504; 01-05-2006 at 01:04 PM.
#4
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Trial fit after tac weld.
#7
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Originally posted by MrDude_1
nicely done. elegant solution to a annoying problem.....
are you going to have thoes headers ceramic coated?
nicely done. elegant solution to a annoying problem.....
are you going to have thoes headers ceramic coated?
Trending Topics
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Littleton, CO USA
Posts: 43,169
Likes: 0
Received 35 Likes
on
34 Posts
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by DTL504
Yes, they will be coated, but i'm going to wait until I get back from Korea (Mar 2007), just don't want them to be freshly coated and sitting collecting oxidation while i'm gone.
Yes, they will be coated, but i'm going to wait until I get back from Korea (Mar 2007), just don't want them to be freshly coated and sitting collecting oxidation while i'm gone.
#10
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Originally posted by five7kid
I would think the oxidation would occur while they're sitting around waiting to be coated.
I would think the oxidation would occur while they're sitting around waiting to be coated.
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: p'cola FL
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
so strange i hear all the problems with the 2210's.
i had a set when i had the small block in my car, i purchased them back in 2000, used, from a friend who bought them new in 98-99.
mine fit perfect, without any holdups or wire issues.
i had a set when i had the small block in my car, i purchased them back in 2000, used, from a friend who bought them new in 98-99.
mine fit perfect, without any holdups or wire issues.
#13
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Originally posted by stage20
so strange i hear all the problems with the 2210's.
i had a set when i had the small block in my car, i purchased them back in 2000, used, from a friend who bought them new in 98-99.
mine fit perfect, without any holdups or wire issues.
so strange i hear all the problems with the 2210's.
i had a set when i had the small block in my car, i purchased them back in 2000, used, from a friend who bought them new in 98-99.
mine fit perfect, without any holdups or wire issues.
Last edited by DTL504; 01-05-2006 at 11:45 PM.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Leandro(Oakland)
Posts: 618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '92 Toyota Pickup
Engine: 22R-E
Transmission: 5sp Manual
Axle/Gears: 4:??
Originally posted by DTL504
The reason is people are using different types of heads, it's NOT the headers but how the heads were designed and machined. If everybody ran the same type of heads that has no clearance problem the subject would not be an issue. But, we all have different types of heads, so that why you see people with the problems of hookers 2210. In reality it's not the headers, but the heads. Hope that clear it up for you and the "So Strange" feeling is resolved.
The reason is people are using different types of heads, it's NOT the headers but how the heads were designed and machined. If everybody ran the same type of heads that has no clearance problem the subject would not be an issue. But, we all have different types of heads, so that why you see people with the problems of hookers 2210. In reality it's not the headers, but the heads. Hope that clear it up for you and the "So Strange" feeling is resolved.
#15
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: p'cola FL
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 iroc-z/28
Engine: 408 lsx
Transmission: 5800 stall
Axle/Gears: 4.71
Originally posted by superGMman
Don't forget the varying condition of different cars' motor mounts.
Don't forget the varying condition of different cars' motor mounts.
the motor mounts are a huge issue with these headers.
what type of head do you run that causes so much trouble?
ive run 2 different type of stock castings on them, one set of dart pro ones, the guy i got them from ran a world cast iron head, and the guy i sold them to not too long ago runs a stock 305 head(lol) on them and didnt have problems.
trying to see which head the problem lies. not doubting, i just like being in the know.
thanks
great work on the tube!
#16
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Originally posted by stage20
yes.
the motor mounts are a huge issue with these headers.
what type of head do you run that causes so much trouble?
ive run 2 different type of stock castings on them, one set of dart pro ones, the guy i got them from ran a world cast iron head, and the guy i sold them to not too long ago runs a stock 305 head(lol) on them and didnt have problems.
trying to see which head the problem lies. not doubting, i just like being in the know.
thanks
great work on the tube!
yes.
the motor mounts are a huge issue with these headers.
what type of head do you run that causes so much trouble?
ive run 2 different type of stock castings on them, one set of dart pro ones, the guy i got them from ran a world cast iron head, and the guy i sold them to not too long ago runs a stock 305 head(lol) on them and didnt have problems.
trying to see which head the problem lies. not doubting, i just like being in the know.
thanks
great work on the tube!
If Hooker was to make headers for every Camaro chasiss and head combo they would probably file bankrupt. The headers was made by hooker to clear the stock casting heads for the Camaro and Dart probably follow the same design as the stock GM, however AFR which I run is a bit different...
#17
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Northern CA.
Posts: 5,321
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Hummm... may have to attempt this now that I've seen it done. Nice work btw, running the same AFR 195 heads, straight plug and also energy suspension poly motor mounts. Both headers slip in and out from the bottom with ease.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Windsor Ontario Canada
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 jaguar xjs convertable
Engine: 89 L98 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 dana 44
Yes, I would, with out a doubt, coat them now! Your header coating is ceramic and since (you should ask for!) they are coated inside and out, there won't be any oxidation. The paint, on the other hand, is only on the outside, and the oxidation will start on the inside while your gone. If they have to dip the headers before they coat them for you, due to the inside surface rust , they will ding you an extra $100.00! Coat them now! Nice work on the tube.
#19
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
I have to get the custom mandrel bend Y-Pipe made this week, he said no more the $300.00. Plus I just bought the Katzkin seat cover that set me back $850.00, but that is in the plan to have the whole system coated( headers, Y-pipe, and Hooker Catback System before I go do this year in the Republic of Korea.
Dave
Dave
#21
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Orange County,NY
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt
Originally posted by DTL504
1. Modification:
1. Modification:
I have a few simple questions for you?
First,how did you get the pipe squared off to fit into the Hooker flange like in this pic?Just some gentle messaging with a bench vise till it fit?
Second,aside from the #7 tube,did any other tubes need any work to clear any other straight plugs on the AFR 195's?
I ask because I am picking up a set of 2210 in a few weeks and plan to modify them in much the same way for the #7 plug, but am also looking for any other possible areas that may need to be modified as I also run the straight plug AFR 195's.
#22
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Originally posted by onebad82z
Very Nice Job!
I have a few simple questions for you?
First,how did you get the pipe squared off to fit into the Hooker flange like in this pic?Just some gentle messaging with a bench vise till it fit?
Second,aside from the #7 tube,did any other tubes need any work to clear any other straight plugs on the AFR 195's?
I ask because I am picking up a set of 2210 in a few weeks and plan to modify them in much the same way for the #7 plug, but am also looking for any other possible areas that may need to be modified as I also run the straight plug AFR 195's.
Very Nice Job!
I have a few simple questions for you?
First,how did you get the pipe squared off to fit into the Hooker flange like in this pic?Just some gentle messaging with a bench vise till it fit?
Second,aside from the #7 tube,did any other tubes need any work to clear any other straight plugs on the AFR 195's?
I ask because I am picking up a set of 2210 in a few weeks and plan to modify them in much the same way for the #7 plug, but am also looking for any other possible areas that may need to be modified as I also run the straight plug AFR 195's.
hope this help.
#23
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Orange County,NY
Posts: 2,112
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 12 Bolt
Sorry to confuse.
That answers my second question.
To clarify the first question,How did you make the pipe square off to fit in the Hooker flange like you did in this pic?
That answers my second question.
To clarify the first question,How did you make the pipe square off to fit in the Hooker flange like you did in this pic?
Last edited by onebad82z; 10-17-2012 at 03:05 PM.
#24
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
Originally posted by onebad82z
Sorry to confuse.
That answers my second question.
To clarify the first question,How did you make the pipe square off to fit in the Hooker flange like you did in this pic?
Sorry to confuse.
That answers my second question.
To clarify the first question,How did you make the pipe square off to fit in the Hooker flange like you did in this pic?
#26
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
What is your definition of "tweaking"?
#28
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
You are too smart for me! I like to keep it simple by using a pre-bent J-tube pipe for $12.00, which allowed me to cut and weld without the tweaking, bending, and moving.
#29
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Heh, I sense some sarcasm…
My point was that you took and cut out the bend, bent the remaining tube out some or possibly welded that section in so that it ended out some, and then added a J with a straight section by the flange to space it away from the plug.
What I’m saying is that if you cut roughly in the area where you used the straight section of the J, and if you’re a little creative you should be able to move that tube out enough to add a section to space the original bend out some… they look to be very close to the same radius, it’s just a question of getting it positioned correctly.
If you’re not good at making metal do what you want it to do, you might still do it that way by taking a small pie cut (probably more like the thickness of the curf of whatever you’re cutting with rather then a true pie cut) out of the tube further down to bend it out some. It wouldn’t look as pretty as yours, but real world I doubt a couple of degrees of a cheated bend would effect flow more then the over 90* of bend just above it.
The only real reason that I even said anything is that for some people, moving a section is a lot less traumatic then removing it, I’ve tried to teach someone how I fit things like that and custom brackets together and found that once you have 2 pieces it turns into a big mess that just never looks right, where if you can show them how to move it one bit at a time everything is fine.
My point was that you took and cut out the bend, bent the remaining tube out some or possibly welded that section in so that it ended out some, and then added a J with a straight section by the flange to space it away from the plug.
What I’m saying is that if you cut roughly in the area where you used the straight section of the J, and if you’re a little creative you should be able to move that tube out enough to add a section to space the original bend out some… they look to be very close to the same radius, it’s just a question of getting it positioned correctly.
If you’re not good at making metal do what you want it to do, you might still do it that way by taking a small pie cut (probably more like the thickness of the curf of whatever you’re cutting with rather then a true pie cut) out of the tube further down to bend it out some. It wouldn’t look as pretty as yours, but real world I doubt a couple of degrees of a cheated bend would effect flow more then the over 90* of bend just above it.
The only real reason that I even said anything is that for some people, moving a section is a lot less traumatic then removing it, I’ve tried to teach someone how I fit things like that and custom brackets together and found that once you have 2 pieces it turns into a big mess that just never looks right, where if you can show them how to move it one bit at a time everything is fine.
#30
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 605
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
21 Posts
Car: 89 Formula
Engine: 383 SBC/HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Why didn't you just use the shorter accel plugs like i did when I bought my hooker 2210 headers, no welding needed??
#31
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
I tried using the accels with MSD wires and the boot was right on the header tube. I didnt the above modification with a 2.5" J bend tube from Summit and it is perfect now. I then ditched the crappy Accel plugs and bought new Borsch non platnium plugs. The Borschs where about 1/16" longer then the Accles.
#32
Supreme Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Macedonia ,OH
Posts: 3,968
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
I am thinking of going with these headers and I have engled plugs. I wonder if I will even have a problem then?
#33
Supreme Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Fayetteville, NC
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 84 Z28 Convertible 2 Seater
Engine: Dart Little-M SBC 400
Transmission: Pro-built Automatics 700R4
Axle/Gears: Strange Engineering 3:73
I tried getting the Accel Plug and it was still on the headers also, you have to take in the different type of heads and motor mount. What works for one might not work for the other. "Just food for thought". I think the modification is the less headache problematic approach. I had to order a shorty plug when I was trying different types of plug and just got fustrated and looked for a different course of action. Some may like the modification and others may think its too much trouble. Now we have two different solution to the problem and like the old saying goes " There is more than one way to skin a Cat".
#34
Supreme Member
iTrader: (9)
having a spare head around help with the modification a lot. If anyone has intentions on doing this mod then I would highly suggest finding an old SBC head to use as a mock up. word of advice, tighten the header down tight whe finish welding. This will help with header flange warping from the heat. Also, you will have no choice but to grind off the back side of the flange in order to get the header tube put. You will have to reweld a square lip around the port and then grind it down so it matches the other 3 lips. I used a straight edge to insure it was my lip was the same height as the rest so it will reseal again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Hotrodboba400
Firebirds for Sale
3
12-10-2019 07:07 PM