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new motor and 68470's installed

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Old May 5, 2006 | 01:39 PM
  #1  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
new motor and 68470's installed

Just lowered in my new motor, gigantic PITA.... anyway, I removed the drivers side header to get the engine in, and it looks like it'll be hard to place the header in now. Is it easy/useful to remove the brake master cylinder, or anything else?

secondly, on the passenger side, the header is < .5" to the fuel lines. I think it's almost touching at a point. This seems like an obvious source of vapor lock and fuel boiling. Is this common? Should I re-route my fuel lines to in front of the k-member then up to the fuel pump?
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Old May 5, 2006 | 03:14 PM
  #2  
Apeiron's Avatar
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Try putting it in from the bottom.
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Old May 5, 2006 | 11:57 PM
  #3  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
hmm, don't think that'd work, k-member and clutch z-bar etc are in the way.
upon closer inspection tonight, I think i'll be able to get it in from the top, perhaps with a bit of brake line bending, and removing the drivers side valve cover.


however, I did notice the passenger header is indeed touching, or withing 1/8" of my fuel line (main, not return). It's kinda a PITA to rebend my hardline with the motor in there.
I'm assuming no one else had this problem with 68470's ?

then finally, is it easiest to snip my lines say at the torque arm area, and flare and do a single in single out block, and continue the hardlines along the drivers side undercarriage, until k-member, then go across to passenger side, and fuel pump?

Thanks

PS Ape, what's your timeline for getting your car mobile again?
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Old May 6, 2006 | 12:05 AM
  #4  
Badass355ciz28's Avatar
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From: Leicester,Massachusetts
Car: 1983 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
Engine: Forged 355 with a GT45 turbo
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: built 4th gen rear with 3.27s
why dont you try removing the engine mount bolt on the driver side and lifting the engine up 4-6 inches like the instructions for those headers tell ya to. i ran those headers for years and i never ran into any issues like you are having as far as your fuel line see if you can move it over if not then make a fuel line to where you want to route it
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Old May 6, 2006 | 12:10 AM
  #5  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
well I got the headers from a member in town here who ripped them off a JY car, so no instructions.... But thanks for the tip!

4-6" though?? I'd have to disco the tranny for that kind of lift, no?


hmm, weird, I figured these were common headers, and the frame rails should be consistant with all 3rd gens (as i've seen many anomalies/annoyances due to my car being an '82), so....

well if anyone has these headers, and could possibly show a picture of the passenger side frame rail/primaries area, i'd really appreciate it.
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Old May 6, 2006 | 12:16 AM
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From: Leicester,Massachusetts
Car: 1983 CHEVROLET CAMARO Z28
Engine: Forged 355 with a GT45 turbo
Transmission: TKO 600
Axle/Gears: built 4th gen rear with 3.27s
as for that header install you wont have to disconnect anything to do with the transmission or anything else. on that fuel line if its that close to the header you might want to see if ya can move it over if not i would recommend you making a new fuel line and routing it where you want it. i have an 84 and the fuel lines run on the driverside since the car used to be a 6 cylinder but i ran new 1/2" aluminum line from the pump to the fuel pressure regulator.. see what you can do man.
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Old May 7, 2006 | 05:39 PM
  #7  
Sonix's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
ok, finally finished the springs, and started this.

passenger side, i'm just bending the hardlines to go up, 3" earlier, which will keep it ~1" away from the exhaust, minimum.

drivers side, I removed the PS pump, brackets and valve cover. and one spark plug. It seems like the steering shaft is in the way. Is this easy to disconnect and move? One bolt is closer up towards the firewall... what else is there?
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