Ok, my manifolds and especially my y pipe are beat to death. Since i bought the car ive always wanted to put some headers in but never though i could do it myself. This year ive been doing a ton of work myself to try to ensure itll still run for a while and i think i can do it now. So here are the questions

1. Im guessing i need headers equipped with the A.I.R to pass inspection?

2. Ive got 191,000 miles on it, plus its an LO3, so i would be looking for something just to take the place of the manifolds, get a little more performance, and somthing that may not have to last all that long, so i was thinking maybe something cheaper would work in my case??????

3. the harder side to get the header in is the passenger side if im correct?? Ive done an a/c delete already and i have heard that is one thing thats in the way, so im wondering if you may know anything major that would still be in my way.

I know headers are talked about all the time and i have searched so sorry if this is just repeating stuff.............

 

well you did not search to hard, there is a massive sticky on this board (exhaust) the agreed OVERALL best is the 2055's. Cost about 402 and change from summit. Emissions legal, and has a real 3" y pipe.

I bought these, stripped and re-painted them today. Will be installing tomarrow, as I might be lucky enough to be running this weekend after 2 weeks of swapping engine's/trannies and exhaust yeah headers back and a few other swaps like a HSR intake...

As far as installing, I currently have the A/C unhooked, and a few heater hose lines out. I also deleted the air pump, that opened all kinds of room. So they both drop in easy from the top by just removing #5 and #6 spark plugs.

 

My best advice: As you start to tear apart your car, take a minute and visualize it all put back together and running after the header swap. That way you'll go into the job with a positive state of mind. You'd be very surprised the difference that makes

Also get lots of PB Blaster

To remain 100% smog legal (at least in CA) you need headers with AIR/EGR provisions and they need to have a CARB EO number. Since you're not in CA, you'll have to check local laws. I'm quite sure you'll need air/egr to pass a visual however.

Something cheaper maybe.. but do you have plans for this motor in the future? Or swapping in another small block? If so, go for the good, coated, headers. Do NOT get flowtech headers, no matter how cheap they are.

You may or may not need to unbolt the motor mount and jack the motor up to get clearance. Other than that - just move something if it's in the way

 

Coated headers Y pipe too.

The installation will go a lot easier with the smog junk out of the way.

I'd suggest giving some consideration to replacing the OE starter with a mini while your at it... replacing the OE sized starter after a header and y pipe installation can be a bugger.

 

I just put hedman shorties and y-pipe on my L03 theres a huge post on it. No problems with the starter on that one at all. Removing the passenger side manifold is the hardest because theres a few bolts that you have to use a longsocket but then you cant get a socket on there. I used a pair of vice grips clamped to the socket for that.

If you have already passed inspection and if you dont have a visual inspection for SMOG remove your AIR componets. You will still pass emissions. A universal super converter will insure you pass even if your car isnt runnning quite right.

How far from York, PA are you? I could help you out if you want.

 

Will there be any problems keeping the OE size starter once theyre in there because the starter was onme of the things i just replaced this year

 

I hear some people use LT1 starters as a good replacement to a ministarter. My starter is as light/small as my friend's $150 mini starter on his iroc from summit - think mine is like 50 bucks new

 

If you are able to slip in the header from the top do you stil need to remove the starter.

Also i see some people saying you need to remove the dipstick and some dont even metion it at all, do you always need to remove it?

 

You might get lucky and not need to remove the starter for the header install. Just depends on the person doing the work. The dip stick has to come off along with the OE manifolds. Remove as much as you can for access.

My OE starter took a dirt nap immediately after my Headman header and y-pipe install. Had to disconnect the y-pipe to get the starter out. Therefore I chose to go the high torque mini starter route. Installation was a breeze.

If an LT1 starter will work for less than the cost of a mini, that is a good tip and something that you'll probably want to consider.
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Great tip!

 

Yes you still need to remove starter to swing the header in.
Trust me I tried.

As far as the dipstick I dunno, mine was not in the motor at the time, but it is also on the drivers side (again 83 block 383 here) but I did not see it being a problem on mine even if it had been there.

 

What vehicle did you reference for the starter? Partsamerica online list the cheapest LT1 starter @129. I referensed using a 96 firebird with the 5.7.

 

You can use your stock starter with the hedman headers. I used the stock starter even with there longtubes.