https://www.thirdgen.org/egrdiagnose

I have got that damn 32 code popping up and i cant get it to go away......it is making my car run crappy and die occasionally.................... i didnt understand the article too well but i think i have to jist..........my cat is broken and i dont have the emissions control on any longer could the code be coming from either of those................what should i do to fix it..................i never had teh code before i replaced my 305 with a 350 added headers removed the emission controls and had the cat **** out on me...............what do you guys think

 

So, your EGR isn't hooked up at all, is that what you mean when you say the emissions stuff isn't hooked up?

That's part of the problem when you have a computer controlled car with all these sensors and then you start disconnecting emissions stuff. I'd hook back up the EGR, for starters, and see what that does for you.

 

no im pretty sure my egr is still there but my air pump is gone and the pipes on my exhaust manifold are gone and replaced with headers

 

Ok, then I'd say you should start by either just replacing the EGR valve and the vacuum lines that go to it, or you can go through the diagnostic procedures that are outlined in the factory service manuals for this code. There might also be a post here on TGO that discusses how to troubleshoot a Code 32...I feel like I saw it recently.

 

alright well i took it too the mechanic and he is baffled....and im sure he is using the factory service manual............ we raplaced the MAF and all of the relays and nothing changed and checked all of the vaccum lines........im starting to think that it could be coming from the cat........the article i left the link to above talks all about the 32 code and it has something to do with exhaust gasses in the engine....?!? im clueless but i thought that fixing that might help............what else do u think thanks for the help so far

 

did you get rid of the pump, and was running the car before you got your headers, im just thinking

 

no i got rid of the pump and the new engine and the headers and had the cat blow out all at the same time

 

no i got rid of the pump and got the new engine and the headers and had the cat blow out all at the same time

 

well crap, it may have helped alot it you did them it steps, may have been able to fix it if you did. I dont hardly know anything about it, but i like to chime in if you dont mind to learn more, because i thought about removing the a.i.r stuff on my car to clean the engine bay up a little

 

no its cool ne one else got ne suggestions

 

Well, did the mechanic replace the EGR valve itself?

 

I have no idea I'm not even sure where it is.......do u have like a diagram or anything to help me find it

 

I could be wrong but I don't thing the AIR pump/system has much to do with your code 32. I've had the belt off of 3 of my camaros at one time or another and the pump off of 2 of them and 2 of them have never had a code 32. The one that has an occasional code 32 has the whole AIR system intact and operating and still runs like a scalded dog even when a code 32 lights up the check engine light. The EGR valve opens and closes based on input from the computer to let exhaust gas into your intake manifold. The AIR pump does not pump exhaust gas. It pumps fresh air (from outside of the engine) into the exhaust manifolds and/or the catalytic convertor to continue to burn unburnt gas prior to it exiting the exhaust system. I think that's the reason a functioning catalytic convertor gets so hot. The code 32 has to do with the EGR valve not being open/or closed when the computer knows it should be. I believe the computer also has the percent opening amount programmed into it as well so you can get a light if the computer knows the valve should be open 80% and it's only opening 35%. I get a code 32 anytime I'm at operating temp. and I run a steady speed for more than about 4 or 5 miles. My EGR is not opening the correct amount for the engine operating conditions. I have never fixed it because, 1. it's a pain in the butt to get to on TPI cars, 2. I get 20 mpg even driving it back and forth to work, 3. after 5 years the way it runs still thrills me, 4. the light goes out as soon as I shut it off and restart it. Basically mine doesn't seem to be affecting how the car runs. Yours is. Based on "crappy running" you describe I'd say the valve is open too far, or open all the time. If the rough idling/missing at low speeds goes away as you increase engine rpm into the 3000 to 4000 range I'd bet the valve is stuck open. Had the same experience on an S10 Blazer a couple of times.

 

Awesome....that sounds like it could very well be it, you described what it does exactly except that mine runs crappy with that light on and ur does not.....I will definately check into that where is that egr located

 

my egr went bad on my 5.0 tbi. i bought a new 65 dollor egr. a month later it went bad. when u buy a new egr make sure its the same one remember there are two different kinda. Negitive egr and a Positive pressure egr. as for my case the new one went bad. so i put the old one back on and plugged the hose leading to the Egr. worked fine until the old egr stopped making a seal on the cylinder peice that goes into ur intake manifold.

causing it to iddle ruff and pop and back fire and not start. finally i took off the egr traced the gasket onto little less than 1/8 th inch aluminum and milled it out.. then i bolted that plate over the egr hole and the car runs fine now. and also the hose being plugged