Finished 2210, Mufflex y-pipe, 4" catback with a Spohn TQ Arm
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Finished 2210, Mufflex y-pipe, 4" catback with a Spohn TQ Arm
Took some modification but it does fit!
Earlier today my friend and I finished my exhaust install. Actually he did most of the work. I still have to remove it and haul it into the welder so he can finish it as right there is 4-8 spot welds holding the system together at each joint.
I follow'd the tutorial for the 2210 header install acouple weeks back and got that done. That alone took us around 8 hours+ course my setup is unique. AFR 210cc heads, solid motor mounts, mildon 7-quart stroker pan... etc.
For the y-pipe to fit we had to heat up the piping and bend it in slightly that contours the area where the Spohn crossmember angle bars go. We clearanced the angle bars back to it was just under the horizontal tubes for the mount. The rear mount had to trimmed also. This was on a 1st generation design torque arm by the way, so it's a tad different than the latest ones. We 45* clearanced cut the 2 vertical bars that are the support for the mount to tq arm on the back end cause the Y-pipe was hitting them.
Both sides we cut 2 3/4" length 3" piping to extend the end of Mufflex's 1st bends from the collectors. That gave us more room for the tq arm clearance. We also had to heat up the passenger side 1st bend where it comes off the collector flange and angles down. We pried this bend down further to get additional clearance else the pipe was pointed directly at the Spohn crossmember.
Once that was together rear exhaust consisted of a Hooker max-flow 4" in and out muffler, 90* end, and turn down. I scored these off a member on this board for $90 shipped. I then followed the tutorial for 4" exhaust here
This consisted of 3 90* Dynomax $28 4" bends, 5 clamps, and a 4 foot section of piping from Summit. We cut ~2" off one 90* Inside Diameter end. This helped us center the muffler better. We used another 90* to connect off the previous then over the axle. We cut another 90* bend so it could connect the previous over the axle one and have the right angle to connect up to the 4" piping. We swiveled this one until the piping lined up with the Mufflex outlet.
Sounds deep and loud right now. Hopefully sound a little better once all the exhaust leaks are fixed. I'll get pictures in a few weeks, as sadly the car is over 120 miles away and I forgot my digital camera today.
Earlier today my friend and I finished my exhaust install. Actually he did most of the work. I still have to remove it and haul it into the welder so he can finish it as right there is 4-8 spot welds holding the system together at each joint.
I follow'd the tutorial for the 2210 header install acouple weeks back and got that done. That alone took us around 8 hours+ course my setup is unique. AFR 210cc heads, solid motor mounts, mildon 7-quart stroker pan... etc.
For the y-pipe to fit we had to heat up the piping and bend it in slightly that contours the area where the Spohn crossmember angle bars go. We clearanced the angle bars back to it was just under the horizontal tubes for the mount. The rear mount had to trimmed also. This was on a 1st generation design torque arm by the way, so it's a tad different than the latest ones. We 45* clearanced cut the 2 vertical bars that are the support for the mount to tq arm on the back end cause the Y-pipe was hitting them.
Both sides we cut 2 3/4" length 3" piping to extend the end of Mufflex's 1st bends from the collectors. That gave us more room for the tq arm clearance. We also had to heat up the passenger side 1st bend where it comes off the collector flange and angles down. We pried this bend down further to get additional clearance else the pipe was pointed directly at the Spohn crossmember.
Once that was together rear exhaust consisted of a Hooker max-flow 4" in and out muffler, 90* end, and turn down. I scored these off a member on this board for $90 shipped. I then followed the tutorial for 4" exhaust here
This consisted of 3 90* Dynomax $28 4" bends, 5 clamps, and a 4 foot section of piping from Summit. We cut ~2" off one 90* Inside Diameter end. This helped us center the muffler better. We used another 90* to connect off the previous then over the axle. We cut another 90* bend so it could connect the previous over the axle one and have the right angle to connect up to the 4" piping. We swiveled this one until the piping lined up with the Mufflex outlet.
Sounds deep and loud right now. Hopefully sound a little better once all the exhaust leaks are fixed. I'll get pictures in a few weeks, as sadly the car is over 120 miles away and I forgot my digital camera today.
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