theres 2 diff part numbers, both 2460, but one is 1hkr, other is 2hkr

One is 350 or so, Looks like it belongs on a ls1 ( pic )

Other is like 550 or so, Looks like it belongs on a sbc

They both have the same applications

Whats the differance??

And would you guys recomend this type of header?

 

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...ok-2460hkr.pdf

Assuming you mean 2460HKR, 2460-1HKR, and 2460-2HKR.

-1 are ceramic coated, -2 are stainless.
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Personally, I would recommend 2055HKR or 2055-1HKR.

 

whats the difference between the 2055 and the 2460's?

 

and another question.. why do you recomend the 2055s over the 2460? i am currently looking for headers myself and to me they look alsmot the same.. but i can get the ciramic coated ones for cheeper. anywho i got a 92 as you know and i i still have the air... i want to get rid of that... i have been looking around and i hear there is like a block off bar or something.. could you also give me some advice on waht to look for when i get one of those....and plz dont send me to the tech article.... someone needs to re right that with some helpful info on it... anywho those are my questions.. you look like a gurroo on these cars so im sure you can help me

 

same question, i wonder why 2055 isbetter over the 2460's

Air u can just remove, and then put a delete pully on there

 

The 2055's I BELIEVE comes with a Y pipe and is lighter. However, i decided to go with the 2460's since the tubes are slightly bigger and i was building a true dual, and i didn't find them that much heavier. The Extra weight is simply because the 2460's have thicker gauge metal making them more durable. I didn't understand why the 2055's were so much more expensive myself. I'm happy with the 2460's, considering the price i paid for such big headers and they are very easy to install. Don't need to jack your engine up if you're careful or unless you have A/C

 

Both the 2460's and the 2055's have 1-5/8" primary tubes. That's OD, not ID. So, the 2460's having the heavier gage tubing means the ID will be smaller than the 2055's since both have the same OD.

The 2055's are emissions-legal for the '86-'90 TPI single cat application. The y-pipe that comes with them is simply and without question the best available y-pipe for our cars. It is 2-1/2" from the collectors, mandrel bent to the Y, which is 3" and mandrel bent to the inlet of the cat.

There is now a y-pipe available for the 2460's, but it is designed as an non-emissions application replacement for the LO3 models and replaces everything from the y-pipe through to the cat-back with a smaller 2-1/2" pipe. By the time you get the 2460's installed with a replacement y-pipe, you'll have spent almost as much as buying the 2055's, which will bolt on. You could have an exhaust shop modify your factory y-pipe to connect to the 2460's collectors, but then you'd be retaining the pretty poor factory y-pipe.

 

Couple more questions on these two headers since I may have to replace my SLP's....

1. Why does the 2055 only show up for the 82-90 cars?

2. Does the 2460 or 2055 include the AIR tubes? I'm thinking to delete that...

 

The 2055's are only listed through 1990 because in 1991 the single cat system was 2-1/4". The only "good" system from the factory was the dual cats. (For the record, they're listed for '86-'90, not '82-'90.)

2055's include the A.I.R. tubes. 2460's do not, but are available with them special order as part #02460. If you don't want the A.I.R. tubes on 2055's, just cut them off at the welds on the primary tubes and weld the tube nub shut. It's so easy, even I could do it. . .

 

Thanks for the reply. If I can't get my "new" SLP headers straightened out I guess I'll be getting some 2055's...

 

the main difference that i saw was the fact that the 2055s are tuned, and to me, the extra 300 some dollars arent worth it, especially if you are in the same situation as me, your motor is basically stock and just getting away from the stock manifolds, i could feel a big increase.

 

Well, the 2055's aren't "tuned", but neither are the 2460's. Off hand I don't know of any 3rd gen headers that are, including the long tube varieties that are available, unless you're talking about high-end Lemons or some such sort that the Stock class racers use.

2055's don't cost $300 more than any header available (except the cheapo Summit/Flowtech shorties that nobody should consider). They are about $250 more than 2460's, but include a y-pipe that is going to cost you more than $200 for a lesser product. When you total up all costs to finish the job, 2055's are extremely cost-effective (for what's out there, anyway), and will give you the best performance per dollar spent. I know $410 is a big chunk to spend at one time, but any other choice will either cost you more, not work as well or be as good quality, or nickle & dime you to death.

 

To make things interesting I found one application where the 2460's might be slightly better: Remote(or rear)-Mounted Turbocharging (like STS, where the turbo is mounted where the stock muffler would be).

Since they are a thicker gauge(16 instead of 18) they would hold more heat in. I don't know if it would be a huge difference. I was reading up on ls1tech.com how the LS1 Remote Turbo guys actually prefer using stock manifolds rather than longtubes because the manifolds are thicker and have less volume, thus more heat kept in the pipes. More exhaust heat gets to the turbo with the manifolds and helps get rid of some of the lag.

 

Ceramic coating would make more difference than the thicker gage would.

I've wondered about a rear mounted turbo, and the first assumption I made was that the entire exhaust system from the engine exhaust ports to the turbo would be ceramic coated. I believe the STS system is, in fact.

 

Just my 2 cents. IMO the Lemons headers are not that expensive. True they are more then an out of the box Hooker or Headman headers. I had a set custom built for my 82 Z28 and IMO it was worth every penny and money well spent. Now my project is not the run of the mill 3rdgen (look under fabrication 1982 silver state project) but none of the out of the box headers would help me accomplish what I needed to do with the appropriate amount of ground clearance.

 

Sometimes spending more up front means spending less in the end.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

i didnt see the y pipe part, but yes they are tuned

 

Never, never trust summitracing.com pictures.

NEVER!!!

Trust me, they don't look anything like that picture.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...ata-tlarson-my

 

i not showing it because of the picture, but because of the fact it says tuned, even the 2055hkr ones say tuned, not just the 20551hkr that i showed in the last picture, and yes they probably look not exactly like that but close because it has the 1 for ceramic

 

That's a marketing "tuned", not an engine builder's use of the word "tuned".
http://www.holley.com/2055HKR.asp

 

That was one of the main points that I was talking about. In a first look something might appear to be more expensive. But in the long run sometimes spending more up-front saves money in the end.