i can get some hooker comp headers for cheap, what does a tuned header mean? and how big of a difference is it between the hooker comp or super comp shortie headers?

 

"Tuned" means the runner lengths are such that they optimize the exhaust pulses to pull the exhaust out of the cylinder better. I think they're stretching it a bit to call their shorties "tuned".

The Comp headers (2460HKR) are plain, non-emissions shorty headers. Standard 3-bolt collector flange. No y-pipe with them, the one available separately is pretty poor (intended for replacement of the y-pipe and cat for off-road applications). Modifying the stock y-pipe to hook up the Comps is possible, but that leaves you with the poor stock y-pipe. A well-done custom y-pipe is going to be expensive (unless you have connections in the exhaust business).

The Super Comp headers (2055HKR) are emissions-legal for the '86-'90 TPI single cat application, but will fit any Gen I SBC and any 3rd gen chassis, and have a great 3" mandrel bent y-pipe. In my opinion, they are the best value for a street driven V8 3rd gen you can find. But, that's just my opinion (and I'm sticking with it).

 

its that i can get a set of comp headers for 80 bucks, with no y-pipe

i have no emissions on my car, actually have some ghetto slp shorties on the car but they dont have a solid flange, are allwarped, and have a tendency of loosening my header bolts, due to henced warpedness

 

The Hooker Comp #2460's are excellent headers if emission tubes are not a concern, hence the "off-road" designation. These are clearly a more performance-minded header than the #2055's. Back in the day, if you came around with SBC headers that had anything less than a 3-in collector, you'd have been embarassed for even considering them as a performance "upgrade", unless it was a 265-283 cube engine, maybe! Aside from "convienence", I'm surprised companies today make headers with such whimpy, ball-socket collectors.

The 3 bolt flange collector is at least 3/4 in larger than the #2055's. Even if you hog the #2055's to the limit to which they will seal at the ball-flange, theyre still small compared to the #2460's stock, which defeats some of the purpose of going to headers in the first place, especially being close to the ports, where the exhaust gas temp along with velocity is so high. The closer to the exhaust port, the more crucial good flow is. Heck, for that matter, my TPI manifolds had at least 2-1/4 in outlets stock, and could have been hogged out if needed.

The only down side with the #2460's is the "Y"-pipe necking down to 2-1/2 in instead of 3-in. I was not concerned with emissions, and was aware of the "Y"-pipe issue going in. In my case, I just cut that bit off and welded in a nice, mandrel bent 3-in piece, then a straight 3-in piece to the cat-back, and connected it to the rest of the system, which is now a full 3-in all the way back to a Dynomax Ultraflow welded racing muffler. This is a easy mod, and a small effort for knowing you've now got the maximum breathing for your 3rd gen.

The car sounds and pulls great, and I'd buy the #2460's over the #2055's in a heartbeat if I were to do it again.

For the record, I highly doubt any shorty-style headers available for these cars are 100% equal-length tuned due to difficult packaging under the hood. On the other hand, its well noted in books by gentlemen like David Vizard, that in anything but the most crucial racing applications, equal length is not ultra important, especially when running through a street exhaust system.They are still miles ahead of stock log manifolds for overall flow and scavanging.

 

I have yet to see any back-to-back comparisons between any 3rd gen headers available, but I'll take theoretical exception to every statement you made that 2460's are better than 2055's.

2460's have thicker wall tubing, meaning the same 1-5/8" external tube size will result in smaller internal tube size with the 2460's compared to 2055's. So, close to the exhaust port, you're already smaller with the 2460's. The 3" collector opening is meaningless - they both have the same collector size where the tubes come together, but since the 4 tubes aren't all flowing at the same time, the 2055 opening is fine, thank you.

Unless you have access to exhaust tube material and welding equipment, the 2460's are going to cost you more to install than 2055's, with no increase in power (again, theoretically, since I've never seen anybody who has compared both with no other changes). Add about $350-$500 to get those $80 headers installed in your car if you don't have free access to exhaust work.

 

1. Ok, If the tubing of the 2460's is incrimentally thicker, I say its a fair trade-off for the facts of added durability/longevity, better sound control, and superior appearance, on a street driven car. I'm still inclined to believe that the slightly smaller internal diameter ( and we don't know exactly how much or crucial that amount is ) is offset by the larger collector flow ability. While I can't prove it, it stands to reason to me. Being an off road, non-smog, performance intended header, I'm willing to believe they easily equal, if not outflow the 2055's, which is why I got them.

2. The 2055's collector opening might be "fine", the 2460's are still better. I agree the "Y"-pipes would flow equally down to where they join, but thats inexpensive and easy to fix........read #3 below.

3. The modification needed to the "Y"-pipe is very simple and straight forward. I aquired the needed mandrel-bent 3-in, 90* pipe for $25, cut the Hooker "Y"-pipe where I wanted the 3-in to be joined to it, and, with the yellow pages, readily found a shop to do the required welding for little more than it would typically cost to get the system welded together as you normally would, whether or not an extra piece was joined to the "Y"-pipe or not. Even if I would of kept the "Y"-pipe as it was, I still would have everything welded together for a solid, leak-free system. Only difference was I had one more joint welded, and spend $25 for the mandrel 3-in 90*, which anyone can purchase easily for minimal cost. I know of no shop that would charge $350-$500 to weld the "Y"-pipe to the intermediate pipe, assuming the owner is supplying the exhaust system and its all in place when you arrive on his hoist.

4. Best part is, I know I have a killer system that sounds mean, flows great, and I didn't need to saw off and weld shut the A.I.R. tubes on a new set of Hooker headers.

5. To say you get no "Y"- pipe with the #2460's, and the one available is 'pretty poor' is inaccurate and misleading. The available "Y"-pipe is in no way inferior to, and is completely equal to the #2055 "Y"-pipe, except for the outlet diameter, which can be easily and inexpensively 'fixed' if someone chooses.

6. In some applications, maybe the #2055's are prefered, due to smog needs, etc. But, if smog needs are not a concern, then the #2460's are a great and possibly preferred alternative.

 

I was talking about fabricating the y-pipe (I can't see reusing the stock y-pipe). Or, if you get the Hooker 16767HKR y-pipe, which is $250 alone from Summit, modifying it so it is all 3" after the "Y".

If you're getting good deals on labor, good for you. 8 years ago I was charged $75 to weld up collector reducers to the exhaust pipes, which was all already in place. They did a crappy job to boot, and I had to take it back to seal all the holes they left. After adding more weld bead, they covered it with muffler putty to finally get it to seal and get me off their back.

Another time, I was charged $25 for an 18" long piece of 3" pipe expanded on one end.

Setting foot into an exhaust shop is always going to be my last act of desperation. I'll take a system that I can bolt in, to one requiring modification/fabrication/shop labor any day. When you add it all up, it's going to be cheaper that way than paying someone to do any of it.

And don't ever quote me as saying 2055HKR's are perfect out of the box, because I've never said that. I have said and will continue to say they are the best choice for someone who wants to be able to install their exhaust system themselves, and the y-pipe is the best one available. If you don't want the A.I.R. tubes, saw them off and go buy a $120 wire welder from Harbor Freight to weld the nubs closed - you'll have a new piece of equipment which will cost you less than shop labor, and won't have to trust your ride to some Yellow Pages shop.

To anyone who wants to use 2460HKR's - it's your ride, do what you want.

 

For me, 'fixing' the Hooker "Y"-pipe was no problem. I have no idea why you feel you'd need a shop to literally fabricate an entirely new "Y"-pipe, when the Hooker "Y"-pipe is fine, except for the outlet. Even though the Hooker "Y"-pipe is not cheap, its still a better bang / buck to just mod the end of their pipe than to start from scratch. Now that you've clairfied that point, I can see where you get the super-high labor prices your quoting.

In my case, I found a nearby reputable shop that is not a 'chain-type' muffler shop, but a shop doing custom exhaust fabrication, as well as replacement systems for typical applications. They do nice work, no exhaust leaks or pipes banging on the floor pan.

I never said you said the #2055's were perfect out-of-the-box. I've seen where you had to grind open the ball-socket to a larger size. In the end, its a compromise and each one has their strengths and weakness. Personally, I still would not buy smog headers, then cut & weld the tube openings on new headers, whether or not it meant I could have a Harbor Freight welder left over. If I got a deal on them used from a friend or something, then it might be different.

Bottom line, your happy with what you have, I'm happy with what I have. We can agree to disagree on the specific header we prefer, they both offer improvement over stock. I just saw a need to clairfy the benefit of the #2460 header as a great, non-smog alternative and didn't think you were giving them a fair shake, in this post, or anytime someone mentions the Hooker #2460's. For that matter, it makes no sense to me why Hooker makes the #2055 "Y"-pipe with a 3-in outlet, and makes the #2460 "Y"- pipe with a 2 1/2 outlet. They both should be 3 in, and I doubt manufacturing costs would be that much more. I'm sure others have this same question, and I think Hooker missed the mark on this one. Then again, Hooker headers with a 2-in ball socket outlet make no sense to me as well.

 

ya i have no intentions of buying a header with air tubes, wish they made it without them.

Ah well maybe ill start looking at a hedman piece or something, just looking for some descent shorty headers. and most headers dont come with a y-pipe so big deal