I have a car that im close to putting together. I dont know what im doing with the exhaust yet but i have a feeling that the spohn crossmember will be in the way of the header tubes when they get bolted up. The crossmsber is for a th350 conversion. Anyone have a similar set up, maybe with pics?

 

idk how the TH350 crossmember differs from the 700r4's, but i think i've seen some ppl on here running 2210's and spohn 700r4 crossmember. I will be doing either the hooker longtubes or dougs headers, or even stainless steel hawks headers...i'm not sure yet.

 

http://picasaweb.google.com/PAM3LA/Camero

This is how I ran my 2 1/2 inch true dual with cats around the Spohn 700R4 crossmember. I am also using a pair of Stainless Works Stainless LT with X pipe and a pair of Magnaflow bullit mufflers at the end. The car is extremely quiet and picked up close to 30 WHP on the dynojet dyno.

 

That looks good. THat is a pretty good example. Thanks a lot!

 

Here is a picture of my 700R4 Spohn Cross member setup.
Hopes this helps.

 

That looks absolutely beautiful! lol I'm thinking i may do the samething!

 

Yeah thats an example i can take with me to the shop. Thanks

 

DTL504, you spent all this effort to re-route the exhaust pipes around the Spohn crossmember and why did you not go the extra distance to make it a true dual?

 

Nliang,
Not a lot of effort to this setup. I took less than two hours and $300.00 to complete that Y-pipe. With true duals on a 90% street car would have a lot of problems scraping the ground plus another muffler setup. I already had the Cat back system. I had to get this Y-pipe made because I went to the 2210 long tubes. I previous had a 2 1/2 y-pipe.

 

this is the boat i'm in. i like my over the axle setup that i had made ealier last summer. I dont want to get rid of it, so im' thinking of doing a similar y-pipe as above, and connect it together just like you did

 

Just try to find someone who has the capability of making the bends using mandrel pipe bender. Totally agree, I did not want to start all over with a dual after I bought my Cat Back System. If you are just starting out and prefer a dual (which I did not) get it done in the beginning. BTW: When the cutout are open my system become dual w/o mufflers.
Now you have the best of both worlds...duals w/o muffler (loud) and single pipe w/mufflers (quiet). The McCord electrical cutout allow you to go from single to dual with a flip of a switch from this inside the car.

 

I totally understand your situation; it's hard to get rid of your single cat-back for dual that is why you put in dual cutouts. Since I don't intend to race my car, noisy cutout is just unacceptable. The reality remains a true dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust will out flow a single 3 inch setup by about 40%.

 

well true, but does the motor need an extra 40% or is 3" enough flow?

 

DTL, am I correct in my observation that you notched the "frame"?

BA setup.

 

You have to notch the frame otherwise you will not have sufficient clearance to clear the speed bump especially those have their car lowered.

"well true, but does the motor need an extra 40% or is 3" enough flow?"

For stock motor, single 3 inch is more than adequate. I have a built n/a 383 SBC with 360 whp on the dynojet with an unlocked converter, going to 1 3/4 inch LT headers and 2 1/2 inch true dual I pick up 30 whp, you tell me whether this is worth it or not. Even with this arrangement, it is only good to about 450 whp. Part of my future upgrade include installing some form of forced induction system (either single of twin turbo), by then dual 3" will definitely be necessary.

 

where did you notch the frame at? looks like you didnt have to in those pics?

 

I had it done by Noyz Boyz in Toronto, Canada. John Hopkins is the good chap that built it for me. The whole system was custom built with stainless steel pipes, header is 1 3/4" LT by Stainless Works, dual high flow cats, X pipe, dual Megaflow bullit mufflers. This is by far the single best improvement I could have made to my car.

 

No, I did not notch my frame. My exhaust is just tuck to the body and It would not feel comfortable notching the frame of a vehicle on the street or strip. This by far weakens the structure of the body and could result serious injury or death. I look at the safety aspect of the car and build around that. Not all engine need the extra flow and you may have picked up 30 hp but where did it pick it up in the RPM range? Plus, I have a bad habit upgrading and my next engine will be a Dart 427 Block, so I will not have to design my exhaust again.

 

I freakin hate the Spohn crossmember in dealing with these headers. Only have 3 inches of ground clearance the way I had to route stuff. Really need to get my butt in gear and make my own.

 

I only had to notch the frame on the driver's side to gain additional clearance. The frame was boxed back in with 1/4" steel plate to regain regidity. The power gain is most noticeable from 3,000 to 5,000 rpm, on the dyno the torque curve is almost flat and registered at about 375 lb-ft.

 

I'll be doing mine shortly so i'll be able to post pics. I'm in the same boat so I guess well see what i come up with. I definetly like the idea of the single cat back.

How tame is that for the street? Does it sound respectable?

 

would you happen to have some pictures from the side?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...ess-works.html

 

You could try doing something like I did here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...mber-done.html

I will say that the DS safey loop IS NOT ground clearance friendly. While my HP #'s really dictate me having one I'm going with a Lakewood bolt in unit instead. I'll be posting pics of the unit when I take it out tonight.

 

that is amazing you got any side pics looks a little low for my liking but truly amazing

 

Subscribing to this thread. I plan on doing the same and will need something to go by.

 

Im in kinda the same boat with long tubes and a spohn crossmember. I want to run exhaust about like this but it seems to me that the torque arm is awfully close to the pipe and I have a crossmember with a driveshaft loop and the regular stock style torque arm mount. Any ideas? Also how much space between the crossmember and the header flange is there?

 

DS loop is more than likely in the way. I've thought about that setup too for my car but i have the DS loop crossmember and i dont think it will clear

 

Is there enuff room to build a y infront of the crossmember?