i want to get headers for my basically stock 305 tbi. my dad says that they do next to nothing hp wise, and don't even add much sound unless they are open. is this true? i think he just doesn't want to install them. thanks

 

Wrong. Headers are a great mod. And they will actually slow you down if you run them open in a stock or mild engine. Get the headers. Use a full exhaust. Just my .02

 

i agree with Firebreather. depends on the engine but it will give you a nice bump, and if you can do the full cat+back as well!

 

Why is that an issue? You're going to be installing them, right?

 

i'm 17 and have no mechanical knowledge. he would be the one putting them in. he's the type of guy that would rather do it perfect then teach his son.

 

The stock F-body exhaust is a nightmare... if you've ever looked at the "y-pipe" it's a joke... passenger side pipe hits the driver's side pipe at a 90 degree angle.

 

Headers are definitely going to help that motor breathe.

 

You can teach yourself, thats how i learned mostly, dont be afraid to grab a wrench and dive in there

 

i'm gonna have the auto tech at my school put these in.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/camar...spagenameZWDVW
and then this.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

I wouldn't suggest that y-pipe... that's just a set of Summit/Flowtech headers and a glorified "T-Pipe" it's barely better than the stock piece... I'd suggest a set of hookers

Like these
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

And Y-pipe:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

That's assuming you don't want headers with emissions hookups... and you need something to bolt right up.

 

305 TBI is a roller motor. Cam you suggested is a flat tappet.

Some members here have good luck with the LT1 cam in the TBI motor. Its significantly better than the stock cam, but not really radical to require major tuning in the computer. I think you really need to upgrade the valve springs, too, with anything bigger than the stock cam.

Also, I suggest that you take part in the installation of your parts. Personally, I would never try and have a high school auto class install parts on my car, just to save a buck, unelss I was right along side them the whole time LOL.

 

yeah do the headers yourself you can do it,,, seek out help for the cam though but be involved.....and definately go with the hooker headers and y pipe, i love mine....and wrap them, u need to keep the heat in the headers so put header wrap on them, (it will void any warranty on the header) but the header needs to keep the heat so the exhaust gasses stay hot and flow better...plus it will keep some of the heat from out of the engine bay...thats the only advantage of manifolds over headers is that cast iron holds in the heat better....

 

i've read bad things about header wraps on this forum. A lot of people think you would be better off getting a ceramic dip

 

Headers really are easy to install, they were my first mod to my tbi a year and 1/2 ago besides A/C and Smog delete and now i'm almost done rebuilding my LT1 to go in.

I didn't even jack the motor up, I just disconnected my exhaust manifolds and Y pipe(the bolts on the Y-pipe were old and breaking in-half even soaked in PB blaster, so I just used a reciprocal saw a foot or 2 infront of the cat and dropped it, I was getting a new cat-back anyways). Stared at the steering shaft for a few minutes(seeing as I've never removed one) and then took it out and dropped the header in. The bolts backed out on me a few months later because of the odd angles I couldn't torque them enough, so I put some Teflon tape on and the problem was solved. Also remember if you're removing the smog lines that they will need to be block, I believe I used 1/4 brass plugs from homedepot. The air cleaner assembly should also be either changed or atleast tape off were the "stove" tube would go from the exhaust manifold to the air cleaner assembly. I had to bend the tubes coming from the master cylinder, so they weren't touching the headers but it wasn't very hard. The passenger side was even easier seeing as I had to A/C. It took me about 2 and 1/2 hours, I know I know leave me alone it was my first mod and I did it alone

Heres more info on the LT1 cam that ShiftyCapone posted
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...-ultimate.html
I know you said you have no mechanical experience so some of it may be alittle difficult to read but there is alot of good info in there. A cam swap is more advanced than headers but if you get someone, that knows how to do it, to help you it shouldn't be to bad.
Goodluck

Edit: btw headers/exhaust is a great way to start for mods, the TBI air cleaner assembly is a bit restrictive too, I swapped mine out for 15$. Also I've heard of header wrap setting on fire when oil dripped on it, I've never seen it so I don't know how true it is but it sounds believable to me. Ive heard putting a coat of high temp enamal over the header wrap helps, maybe someone on the boards has had luck with header wrap and POR-20? Might be worth looking into.

-Russ

 

yes man ya got two get headers its a must mod! and ya got two get your hands dirty doing it that the fun part about it, i have some flowtechs whitch i thought was fantastic.... when i seen the increase in power and sound! however its been a couple of months now that i installed them, and i got two tell ya im wanting more! them little flowtechs have got me wanting more, it was like a tease....im wanting a set of 2055 hookers yes yes and i cant wait two get my hands dirty with them and lol that sounds about like my dad thats when i grabbed a wrench and showed him.

 

yeah ceramic is the way to go if you have the cash, hands down... i wont argue with that logic at all...and as for the other guy saying about the oil dripping on them and catching them on fire, i dont know never heard of that but i guess it could happen, but yea spray with some hight temp enamel over and should be ok,,,,plus just make sure your motor doesnt leak oil lol...and do like i do keep a firet extinguisher in the car at all times, cheap insurance mine cost like 13 bucks at advance...

 

other than that stupid pipe thing on the manifolds that comes up, (which is blocked now because i put an edelbrock air cleaner on) what do those headers get rid of in terms of being not emissions legal? also, i heard about the lt1 cam. what is better, the one i have listed or the lt1 cam?

 

If you buy headers that don't have the Smog tubes, then they will have to be blocked. Also your smog pump would have to come out.

Well, like another members said before the cam you posted is a flat tappet, you have a roller block. So you would need a hydraulic roller cam. Asking which one is better though is kind of vague because you could find a better cam, tune it with new springs and supporting mods and make more power. It all depends on how much you want to spend, read the thread I linked, it explains under "Why the LT1 cam" why people are saying go with that.


-Russ

 

so these would put the check engine light on? i'd rather be legal. what are the best legal headers/y pipe for a decent price. also if i go the lt1 cam route, do i really need all those parts/gaskets? give me a generic list of parts i'd need.

 

Exhaust is absoluetly the first thing you should do to your car. I believe people claim 15 to 25 hp gains over stock from a header and catback install.

You'll want to get the Hooker 2055 headers. They are a bit more expensive, but include the y pipe. The are arguably the BEST header on the market for your application.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/2055/10002/-1

You'll also want to go with an aftermarket catback system. I had a Hooker Aerochamber system on my car at one point and enjoyed it a lot. There are a lot out there though, each with different tone and sound. It's up to you. I think the Hooker is one of the louder ones, plus it's reasonably priced.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/168...1/744803|10249

You may also need to get a high flow cat, depending on where you live (emissions).

I would recommend against the cam right now. Put exhaust on your car and ride with that for awhile. See how you like it. You can always do a cam later. Do one thing at a time, especially if you're not mechanically inclined. You'll learn better this way and see your gains. Plus this will allow you to focus all your budget on the exhaust. No sense in cheaping out on exhaust so you can do other stuff.

You absolutely will not be disappointed with the quality and fitment of the headers I posted for you, and any member here will attest to that. Beyond that, the cat and catback system choice is up to you. Whatever sounds best. Good luck, let me know what you think or if you have any questions.

Greg

 

which is better?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...iew=32&N=700+0

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/2055/10002/-1

 

The Hooker 2055's are the best hedders on the market. Ive heard bad things about edelbrock

 

If you can afford the Hookers, go for it. They are a GREAT header, and everyone here will attest to that. You will not be disappointed.

Good luck bud!

 

thanks guys, the car looks fast so i thought i'd try to make it somewhat quick

 

hey i'll drop right in here - is that your car? looks great, even if i dont like the hood normally, on yours it looks awesome with that color accents!!
i'm in the process of getting hok 2055 myself, and have them ceramic coated at jet hot. i got a quote today saying it would be like 700 shipped to CA, but i dont know if that includes the y-pipe, waiting for a response and i'll let you know!
would you guys prefer the jet hot coat (sterling) over the "stock" hooker ceramic coat? there's also extreme sterling coat, which is $50 more but promises to hold up to 1700°F (that's 300° more)

 

yeah, i'm getting the 2055's when i get the insurance money from the accident. i can't wait.

on a side note, what would my 305 tbi sound like with open headers. the motor doesn't make a lot of noise (mostly the flowmaster muffler) so is it going to be loud?

 

pretty loud, dont run a motor a long time with open headers, if the valves get good and hot and u shut down the motor cool air can flow right back up the open headers and thermally shock the valves....not a definate will happen but a chance it can....

 

I have heard some thirdgens with 2055's and they sound a little raspy and make a sweet rumble when hammering the gas. I love raspy though that might just be me. And now adding a cam, your car is gonna be bookin with everybody lookin!!! Only run open headers at a track if you have cut outs. Cold air might warp a valve. Your car will be ridiculously loud with just headers by the way. Me I prefer long tubes, so I cant say I am getting shorty's. But I have heard plenty with shorty's and they sound great. But I have heard long tubes on a 305 and I liked it a little better. I am just going to weld the air pipes into the 68460 long tubes. The only problem with long tbs? ground clearance. I am willing to sacrifice that though since I don't want to drop my car. Your car looks amazing by the way!!! I have all of these parts just haven't had time to put them in. 3.42 locker, Edelbrock manifold and soon long tubes, I have a lot of work ahead of me. Jeesh. Can't wait to feel the difference though. Don't be afraid with working on your car though. Exhaust isn't that bad. Once you get it off the ground everything seems so much better and less intimidating. .have somebody at your shop Not to mention how much money you save while having fun working on your car!!! Try to post some pictures and maybe an exhaust sound clip too when you get everything together. Oh by the way, I like your fish hooks!!

 

Your car will be obnoxious loud with open headers.

You'll be pleased with the result when you add headers and a y pipe to your current set up. Let us know how it works out for you.

 

Hi,
I still have manifolds but I added a high flow MAC y pipe, a "cheater pipe" where the cat was and the Flowmaster American thunder cat back system. I know it won't make as much as headers but it sounds incredible. Even that made a world of difference. Jegs also makes a high flow off road y pipe that takes the place of the cat and will bolt up to any single cat, cat-back system. I don't know much about it but its an option. Good luck.

 

i don't plan on running open headers except once a year at a car show that allows it during the 4th of july weekend (the whole town you can run open headers and do burnouts) and maybe once at school to make kids sh*t themselves

thanks for the comments on the car, not too shabby for a first car, and i'm assuming theh fish hooks are the hood pins?

and i think i'm going to skip the cam for now. it isn't really worth it on my motor. i'm better off saving up my money for a crate 350, and then i can still use my headers.

when i get them i will try to get a sound clip although i only know how to upload pictures, and my video recorder doesn't have any hookups for the computer. but i will try. it won't be until the summer when i get my money from the crash (nothing serious, just a crack in the bumper, and not my fault)
----------
oh, and you should see it with the new 17" TTII's

 

Free advice #1:

Don't get any aftermarket exhaust parts for the TBI application.

 

look, i know it's not a fast motor, but i don't have the money to put a 350 in. also, the laws around here for junior operators is pretty strict. i just want something a little quicker and a little louder.

 

I think he meant that, when you are going on summit or jegs: do not order any exhaust parts for the TBI cars.

That is because a y-pipe made for TBI is 2.25" , TPI is 2.5" or 3"

The aftermarket cats are still 2.25" for TBI

and the aftermarket cat-back exhausts neck down to 2.25" at the cat

if you order all 85-90 TPI parts, (i.e. hooker 2055, catco 9118, and a full 3" catback) your exhaust will never neck down to 2.25"

 

What he means is, when you are ordering headers and exhaust for your car, look up the TPI engines as your application, not the TBI engine. The TPI parts are much better performance-wise, and will bolt on exactly the same as the TBI parts would.

For example - most companies that sell catback exhausts for the 3rdgen F-cars sell two sets - one for the TBI cars, and one for the TPI cars. The two sets are usually identical, except that the TBI one has a 2.5" main pipe and the TPI one has a 3" pipe. The same sorta thing applies to headers as well.

Look up a TPI 5.7 for the same year as your car when you buy headers and exhaust and you're golden.

 

i am buying these as i was told to.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker/520/2055/10002/-1

 

Hooker 2055s are a good header and Y-pipe, nice pick. The Hedman 68470 set is good too, and a bit cheaper I think. I have a set on my Z28.

 

Within hooker and SLP flow quality and smart air pipes. Perfect install.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2668586/2

http://www.macperformance.com/store/...roduct_ID=1439

 

The 2055s are a good choice.

 

if i get the 2055's will i be able to bolt them right up to my existing exhaust? i have a stock cat and a flowmaster catback. remember, i have a tbi.

 

I believe so. Otherwise I'm sure slight modification would make it work.

 

it looks as if i'd be getting 3" headers and y pipe. right now i have 2.25". so i'd have to get a 3" converter and then get a small pipe with 3" on one side and 2.25" on the other side to go from the new 3" convter to my existing 2.25" flowmaster catback.

do they make pipes that do that?

 

You should be able to find some pipes to do that. That's what I meant by "slight modification". Nothing that you wouldn't be able to figure out yourself! Good luck, post up anymore questions you have.

 

just going to add in here that flowtech shorties with the flowtech matching y-pipe are extremely easy to install. Hardest part are ripping out the manifolds.
I have a question too, i can't find it anywhere on the forum, and no one will answer my thread so ill try this thread.
What do i do about the a/c and power steering bracket????

 

Hooker headers are great, I just finished putting mine on. I have the air tubes and ceramic coated. A bit of a pain putting them in, just alot of work removing everything (air conditioning, smog crap) and reinstalling. It is a tight engine bay, as you'll soon find out. You may want to consider locking header bolts so you don't have to fight getting around everything to retighten the header bolts. That is of course if you have all of that crap. I've also heard that if your motor mounts are old you may have some issues with installation due to the engine sagging if you will. But motor mounts are easy to change if you had to and don't cost much.
All in all a very worth while job and it looks great too!
By the way this is a great project to start getting into your car. Grab the wrench from your dad and get to know your own car. Take it from me, if you don't just jump in head first you'll never jump in at all.

 

well they are in, and what a disaster it was putting them in. but anyway, the auto stores didn't have a 3" reducer pipe to match the y pipe so right now the y pipe is much bigger than the stock cat. i'm going to take it somewhere and most likely eliminate the cat all together. it is UNGODLY loud with the exhaust leak

 

Alright, I'm looking at Pacesetter Long Tubes, but I am confused on which ones to get. They do not show on their website any "longtubes" for 3rd gen Camaros. Which part number headers do I need to get that are longtubes?

Also, I want to remove the AIR system (if it can be done), but not sure what will happen with the stock computer and motor. What do I need to do to remove the AIR system from the motor and then what to do on the ECU? I read the stickies and threads, but my questions have not been completely answered. I know the car will run leaner, but will it set off a SES light or no?

If tuning the computer, what do I need to look at to tune the AIR system OUT of the computer so that I do not need them and can still rely on the car to not run poorly or cause major problems in the future.

I would prefer, if there is a way, to just rip out the AIR system and leave it at that. What will that do, if I just pull out the AIR system completely, to the motor and the computer? And what will I need to do?

The car is a daily driver and it is the L03 305 TBI.

Thanks,
- Justin