I have started taking all my old stuff out and nwo i am ready to get the headers.

Here are some pics, pretty straight forward, although i have some questions

I want to eliminate the AIR system, but still have a cat. Is there a cat without that AIR tube?

On the driver side, the manifold went into a tube that went behind the engine, looking at the passenger side, does it just amke a big loop?

Do i just remove those metal tubes?

Are the hooker 2055's reallly THAT much better than the say 2460's? (I think thats the number)

Reason i ask is i want to do it seperate like buy the headers, then buy the Y pipe.

Any suggestions?

And i dont really want the AIR Tubes on the headers i buy.

One more thing, is that connector there a knock sensor or something, i found it dangling by the starter. Where does it go?
Thanks
HEres some pics.

 

In the second picture, is that the bracket that i have to cut for the headers?

Is there a nwe bracket from Jegs or summit so i dont have to cut anything?

Thanks

 

here are some engine bay pics.

 

On the 2055's vs 2460's.... just grab the 2460-2 [stainless steel ones] and they dont come with a y-pipe so you can just buy that later and the y-pipe is like a cat delete one, so if you want to use a cat you have to cut the y-pipe. Also the 2460's dont come with any AIR tube holes stock, so after you put them on you can just take the whole AIR system out with no problem. As for the Cat without the AIR system, I have the 2460-2 with a cat and an AIR system, but my AIR system is non-functioning due to the computer I use on the car. But running it without AIR shouldent be a huge problem especially in warmer areas, all the AIR system does is help warm the cat up, so itll prolly shorten the life of your cat but ive been running like that for a month already and havent had any problems so far.

And why I say get the stainless steel headers is because I think they are alot better, but just look around for ceramic coated headers vs stainless steel on google and you can read up on the differences. But if your tight on money just get the ceramic coated ones because their cheaper.

 

People seem to prefer the 2055's because of the awesome flowing 3" y-pipe. The AIR tubes and the tiny ball and socket flange is whats keeping me from getting the 2055's, and the 2.5" y-pipe is whats keeping me from getting the 2460's.

 

could a exhaust shop make me up a 3 inch y pipe for the 2460's?

My uncle owns a exhaust shop....

 

you could always buy the headers, and have the exhaust shop fabricate a custom y-pipe from your header flanges to a universal cat, and then weld on a ball-socket flange to connect to any 3" catback.
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Yeah, definately do that. He could use a 2.25" pipe off each header, then merge them into a single 3" pipe with a cat welded right in! Just make sure to ask him to keep that ball-socket flange to connect up to the flowmaster or hooker or whatever you get for a 3" catback system.

Having the cat welded into the y-pipe is no big deal, but you dont want it welded to the catback because then the whole thing would be 1 big piece from the muffler to the headers.

 

well, i dont necesarily need a catback system do i?

If i have him do it from say headers back, he could just run the pipe and moutn the muffler and everything right?

I dont really want to include him on this though, as i hope to do it on my own, then when he sees it work in im looking into getting a part time job up there doing something small like brakes or something...

I want him to see im not mechanically challenged.

He stopped by today because he saw i had the hood up, seemed impressed i already had the one side off and was taking off the driver side almost.

I want to start working up there, then i willl have access to a lift and all the tools i need..

Is the 2460 y pipe that you can buy really that bad?

 

Im using it and for the plans I have for my car.... its more then enough flow!

Unless you plan on a big horse power monster then the y-pipe for the 2460's is good enough.

 

Yes, for the 2055's anyway. I had the air pipes cut and welded. I simply capped the cat tube. Some members have cut the Y flange a bit for more flow, but in most cases I doubt that it's a series problem. If you go with the 2055's, the following is a direct-fit system (no modding, weldings, or cursing):

Hooker 2055's (Jeg's 520-2055). Catco high-flow converter (Summit CTO-9118). Hooker catback (Summit HOK-16823HKR).

JamesC

 

Yea I should have rephrased what I said about the 2460 Y-pipe. The reason im not getting it is because I want 3" pipeing all the way back so when I do my engine swap Ill have enough breathing room. But I guess I could always go 3" after the Y-pipe. Would that be possible with some reversed reducers welded on to the end of the y-pipe?

 

if the connector is on the passenger side its the radiator fan switch, at least on my '89 formula it is.

 

ok, where does it go?

It is on the passenger side, adn the wire comes from the radiator area it looks like.

Where does it hook up to?

 

about 2 inches below just past the #6 spark plug there should be a brass and plastic switch screwed in the side of the motor.

 

Your switch won't look like the one in the following pic, but the placement is the same:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...cs-thermal.jpg

JamesC

 

Ok, so im guessing its broken?.. I cant seem to get it to go on there?

How do i go aobut fixing that?

And the O2 sensor hold on the 2460's do i need to have a 9/16" drill bit? i dont have sizes on the bits...