question about headers
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: The great state of Texas
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23's
question about headers
ok so im replacing my stock manifolds with hooker headers. should i go with the 2055's or 2460-3HKR's?? whats the main difference. and also how much of a pain is it to replace them because ill be doing it myself on a friday and having catbacks put on the next day at a shop so i wanna make sure its something i can do myself
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
2055HKR's:
- Just happen to be made for your particular car model
- Will bolt into your exhaust (with modification to the AC bracket as detailed in the installation instructions)
- A real 3" y-pipe
- Emissions legal
- Improved by opening up the collector ball to match the down-pipes (best done after mock-up and marking the mating)
2460HKR's:
- "Universal", not emissions legal
- Not made to fit into your exhaust system
- Y-pipe extra, and it's not their best offering
- Y-pipe only 2.5", extra cost to modify it for 3"
- Thicker wall primary tubes than the 2055HKR's (therefore, slightly smaller ID)
- Will probably cost you as much or more by the time you get them installed than the 2055HKR's would
- ...and still wouldn't be as good as the 2055HKR's (most likely)
Personally, I don't understand why anyone would consider the 2460HKR's.
- Just happen to be made for your particular car model
- Will bolt into your exhaust (with modification to the AC bracket as detailed in the installation instructions)
- A real 3" y-pipe
- Emissions legal
- Improved by opening up the collector ball to match the down-pipes (best done after mock-up and marking the mating)
2460HKR's:
- "Universal", not emissions legal
- Not made to fit into your exhaust system
- Y-pipe extra, and it's not their best offering
- Y-pipe only 2.5", extra cost to modify it for 3"
- Thicker wall primary tubes than the 2055HKR's (therefore, slightly smaller ID)
- Will probably cost you as much or more by the time you get them installed than the 2055HKR's would
- ...and still wouldn't be as good as the 2055HKR's (most likely)
Personally, I don't understand why anyone would consider the 2460HKR's.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Re: question about headers
are you torn between the two? i personally have the 2055's and i really really like them.
as far as ease, theyre not that hard to install..driver side is simple, pass side is a little more complicated, but not impossible.
as long as you have access to some floor jacks or possibly a lift you can do it with some simple hand tools. it is after-all a bolt on.
five7 pretty much hit the nail on the head with the facts about the two.
or, ive also heard that dyno don's headers are good too, ive seen them in person also, real good quality.
as far as ease, theyre not that hard to install..driver side is simple, pass side is a little more complicated, but not impossible.
as long as you have access to some floor jacks or possibly a lift you can do it with some simple hand tools. it is after-all a bolt on.
five7 pretty much hit the nail on the head with the facts about the two.
or, ive also heard that dyno don's headers are good too, ive seen them in person also, real good quality.
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,906
Likes: 240
From: Chicagoland Suburbs
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LT1, AFR 195cc, 231/239 LE cam.
Transmission: M28 T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10bolt waiting to explode.
Re: question about headers
are you torn between the two? i personally have the 2055's and i really really like them.
as far as ease, theyre not that hard to install..driver side is simple, pass side is a little more complicated, but not impossible.
as long as you have access to some floor jacks or possibly a lift you can do it with some simple hand tools. it is after-all a bolt on.
five7 pretty much hit the nail on the head with the facts about the two.
or, ive also heard that dyno don's headers are good too, ive seen them in person also, real good quality.
as far as ease, theyre not that hard to install..driver side is simple, pass side is a little more complicated, but not impossible.
as long as you have access to some floor jacks or possibly a lift you can do it with some simple hand tools. it is after-all a bolt on.
five7 pretty much hit the nail on the head with the facts about the two.
or, ive also heard that dyno don's headers are good too, ive seen them in person also, real good quality.
I use a mix of header bolts. 3/8-16 cap head (5/16th hex key) for the ones i can't get a socket around, and normal ones for the more accessible ones.
Decent ground clearance, the ball-flanges can be opened up too.
I'd sell my set in a heartbeat though. My LT1 wants long-tubes.
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