This thread is about side exit exhaust, not wheels or radiators. But to answer your question Jeremy (1meanz) is a fool and he is wrong, and I am right (he’s a friend of mine so I can say that)

 

I'm not afraid of 1 5/8, thats what I have now and it is prolly best for my engine HP anyways.
I thought about Headmans and actually called and asked how low they hung. They said “their long tubes, so yeah, they hang low”. So how far below the frame rails are they?

 

They're pretty much even with the flat portion of the frame rails at their lowest point. A little corner of the A-arm perch has to be trimmed and it needs a BFH on one of the primaries to clear the steering box, but it's not bad. It's a pretty simple, easy install.

 

Thats typically true for almost all aftermarket factory replica wheels. They are usually heavier, and in the cases of the poorer products way less balanced.

Its whats kept me away from most of the aftermarket wheels that are replica's of factory rims.

 

i gladly accept the jackass award for my performance. I posted the numbers from memory and clearly my memory is defective. I am glad however that I took the opportunity to toss a handfull of sand and mud in BIGMODS' engine last time he had it out. His engine got a little extra "break in compound" when he ran in for a beer....

I echo many of the sentiments here about factory vs aftermarket wheels. I am not afraid of aftermarket wheels for the street on street tires, but so far I've been VERY hesitant to run aftermarket wheels on slicks in a competition environment. Many aftermarket wheels are only rated for 1400-1600lb load. so if your car weighs 3400lbs and will pull north of 1G on slicks (which most will) you've already exceeded the maximum load capacity of the wheels. Scary to think about while taking a turn at 80mph on a road course.

 

You should help him do a C4 IRS swap and see what the rule books say about that.

 

I have a muscle car, why ruin that?

 

I'd put a IRS on the car in a heartbeat. Thats where we differ, I don't see them as Muscle Cars. To me they are 2+2 Sports Cars. If I had a garage and knew how to weld well I'd be ripping the 10bolt out of the car and buying of a C4 rear assembly.

 

Agh that’s good for the valve seats.. gets them lapped in good!

 

wow cool car! well built.

 

Sound clip?

 

Did I see your car at the SEMA show last week in the paddock?

 

If you were there you might have

 

Hm, they must have had a rat rod section?

 

Actually it was sitting outside near the entrance to the North Hall - by the wheel and tire section, there was every type of car you can imagine there - from lowriders to race cars to monster trucks...

Nice car! Took a few pics of it.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...type=1&theater

Hope you can see it - it's tagged for public...

 

Thanks for the pics Paul! It looks like it is a pretty crappy parking spot because the all the pictures I see are the exact same 2, look a little more than half way down this page: http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011...-amp-ends.aspx



Before anyone tells me the numbers are ugly.. I agree and they will get pulled as soon as I get the car back. not my idea

 

LOL...

So you turned your car over to ... whoever "they" are?

I wouldnt out and say the numbers are ugly if you hadn't already admitted such, but I will say I did find it really odd someone who put together a car that was meant to look as clean and sleek as that one would put big blue numbers on it.

Is your spoiler adjustable for downforce? Is it adjusted for the best balance? Im curious to know how much of a spoiler is needed, and at what point it becomes too much and you get understeer in high speed corners.

 

The spoiler is adjustable. The turnbuckles are anchored through the bumper cover directly onto the rear impact bar. Because of the lexan rear window, the decklid is essentially just a flat piece of sheet that is pinned on(it's more complex than that but you get the idea) He has a piano hinge across the back edge of the "decklid" where the spoiler starts. Height, width, and angle are all important. I think his is at or just under 6" tall, which is kind of a common sense place to start and has worked for others. If you were doing an ORR in Nevada you might only want 4" tall, for autox you might want 8" and obviously you'd change the angle as well.

Ultimately, in the real world with street cars like ours you just give the car what it wants based on how it's handling and how fast you're going on track. For example, I'm about to do a similar setup on my car to take care of a slight loose condition that I'm out of roll-stiffness adjustability to fix. I'll use a 6" spoiler and play with the angle to get just enough to tighten the car up a little. For what we do I view a spoiler as more of a tuning tool to finish the balance of the car. It affords adjustability and a slight increase in grip. I don't view it as a performance mod in and of itself like many others do.

 

So that big 5+ inch spoiler doesnt create understeer? I guess now that I think about it, the front is going to have more grip because the engine is over it, the spoiler just helps balance it.

cool beans.

 

My spoiler is almost 8". BlaineFabrication.com makes 5" for ORR, 7" for RR, and 10" for AX. The rule I've heard for adjustment is keep raising it until it lap times go up. I haven't tested that yet, but, I noticed that I lost a couple MPH on the straight at Grattan I'm guessing because A) engine runnning funny and B) addition of a spoiler. Otherwise, too many varables since the last time I drove it at Grattan.

 

Thank you for the inspiring me to get back into my garage!!! Wow... what a car....