im having so much problems with headers my 2 tube on the right side is hitting the frame and the 2 and 4 tube are hitting on the left side one on frame other on cross frame...anyone had somewhat of a problem like this????

 

What's the part number of your hedders?

One of my primary tubes was rubbing at the A-arm mount... a Big F*cking Hammer fixed that !!!!

You sound like you have more problems than you should....

 

I know right well my mechanic and I want a clearance space at least...and ima have to cut and re bend and weld the pipes that I'm hitting at...we hit them but we have almost made then from 1 5/8 to like 1 in or smaller so I'm hurting it more lol... do you think its bcuz its the B4C police package Camaro which wasn't made for a L98....just an FYI to all with same setup...not as easy as it sounds and make sure the cars have a regular motor on yours first.

Part number was 68460 headers..

 

How old are your motor mounts? They might be causing the issue if they're old and worn. New/newer mounts= better clearance. L98 should have nothing to do with it.

 

Well I have never changed the motor mounts...but if we change motor mounts would thAT make the motor go higher or lower.. and have you had a problem like that

 

Has the car ever been in an accident?
Maybe there's another explanation...?

All Gen1 small block chevy engines have the same exterior dimensions...

 

The first time I installed headers, it was on an engine and mounts with 180k. They (headers) almost rested on the frame. Same car and headers, but with new mounts, it raised it up enough that I didn't even have to jack the engine to install or remove the headers (flowtech shorties).

What's the part number? I had a set of 68460's that fit just fine with some minor clearancing of the k member's a arm mount. No issues with frame rail clearance.

 

If there long tubes its normal, You'll have clearance issues with or with out poly mounts too.

 

so what all did you cut and customize huh??

 

he cut o notch out of the crossmember.
then he cut a notch in the a arm mount and filled them in.

fueled soul i cant wait to see it all finished.

 

More pictures please!!!! I just got my motor back in after 6 months of waiting for my fabricator to get my cage done and have been accumulating parts for it in the meanwhile like it's my job. I bought the Hedman 68468 Elite series LTs thermal coated. Summit's site says it fits. They lie. Is getting a tubular K member going to be my only option?

 

Thanks, i cant either!

 

What pics would you like? hedman long tubes never fit im semi disappointed with them currently you can read about it here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...pointment.html
And all just add this about my experience with poly mounts starts at post #135 https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...p-start-3.html. Its sad that you would consider dropping more money on a k-member just to run hedman long tubes, i wish they fit right out of the box. they should at least say some modification might be required when you go to buy them, i think if i had to start over after purchasing there headers i would support the engine drop the k-member put the headers in get the k-member in place see whats hinting and modify accordingly then weld the motor mount nuts in and install poly bushings i would have saved so much more time.

 

Any that you got or anyone else might have.

I started hacking at my factory K member this morning. We'll see how it works.

A tubular K member wouldn't be too bad of a deal either if that's what I'm left with. I was planning on doing one anyway to save some weight off the front end. With all the weight reduction I've already done on the front and the added cage weight in the back, it's become apparent I'm going to need to get some short springs for the front anyway. Would like to get the K member situation out of the way before I order springs so I know which one's to get.

I'm running a T5 trans too, so I'm getting a little worried about slave cylinder clearance. Anybody know if I'm going to have issues?

 

I'm having the same problem with my hedman longtubes. I have new engine mounts and I grinded the ear off of the driver side lower control arm mount, but their about to shake my dash to pieces. I found where there hitting it on the driver side cross member and on the passenger side control arm mount. Did shaving on the cross member work and if so what did y'all use to fill it back in with! Plz help me its driving me but I'm to the point of just getting some mid lengths!!!!

 

Also is it possible to just get some 1 3/4 primary tube mid lengths and still allow it to breathe enough? I'm building a SBC 400 that's gonna see a little track time and wantin at least 400 to the wheels. I figure I'll be sacrificing a little length but make up for it with a little bit bigger primaries. I can't never get a answer on whether length or width is better... :-D But seriously does a that whole scavenging thing play that big a role with the LTs?

 

No one has anyone good advice for me?

 

The thread is 3 years old. Some of the guys may not even have their f body anymore, or like me, it's been so long since the work was performed that any info I would have is already posted.

I also had no clearance issues with the frame once everything was torqued down. The majority of my clearance issues were with the slave cylinder. That was on an 86.

 

Get rid of those and get these.....
They are 1 3/4" primaries and 2 1/2" outlets... the Y-pipe is 3" outlet
Some of us are making 400 to the rear wheels with these.