I am wondering if anyone else is experiencing excessive under hood heat after installing headers. I have an issue with the car restarting after it has been run for a while until complete cool down. I wrapped the starter with a heat shield and still having issues.


1991 Z28
L98 350 TPI
Shorty Headers
440/440 lift cam
Ported heads
Ported intake and plenum and runner tubes
No A.I.R system or emissions

 

[The old school method of under hood heat reduction after header installation was to install a couple washers at each hinge bolt on point. This will slightly break the hood seal and allow normal convection to reduce the heat. The other option is to purchase a starter for drag or round track cars they have better torque and spin faster. Available thru Tims Speed Nashua , Jegs,Summit ~ fanna_50b. ~.QUOTE=REDZ28CAMARO;6051666]I am wondering if anyone else is experiencing excessive under hood heat after installing headers. I have an issue with the car restarting after it has been run for a while until complete cool down. I wrapped the starter with a heat shield and still having issues.


1991 Z28
L98 350 TPI
Shorty Headers
440/440 lift cam
Ported heads
Ported intake and plenum and runner tubes
No A.I.R system or emissions[/QUOTE]

 

If there not jet hot or ceramic coated it is what it is. It does make a big difference in underhood heat. Was an article on it I read. Its acouple hujdred degree diff

 

what kind of headers are you running? I have edelbrock shorty's.

I've gone through 3 starters in the last 10 years due to this. I've tried running the high torque power master, but the same thing happened. right now, I have the exhaust wrapped for the first time with the stock (100 lbs) starter again

I also cleaned between the starter and block since there was a lot of rust. Hopefully it will act as a better heat sink. I think the problem is the solenoid being so close to the header.... Unfortunately, this is a problem a lot of people have with these cars, I too am looking for a better solution!

 

4 great solutions , Red please post your solution if you did something different, we all have the same issue.

 

Things to look at. Smallest starter you can fit. A heat shield. Either a heat shield or a dei wrap. Also look at the main power cable off the battery. It may be a 8g or a 6g. Put a 2g or a 1/0. Hotter needs more amps to turn over.

 

It is the stock power cable. The issue is the starter is dead until the motor has a 100% cool down then starts as designed. I have a DEI heat shield wrap completely covering the starter and solenoid.

 

I am running a set of flow tech shorty headers. The engine is a completely new rebuild to oil or any other debris or rust anywhere. I cleaned the whole engine bay and had everything repainted before I dropped the new engine in.

 

Is the starter your using adjustable?Meaning can you spin the solinoid around away from the headers. I had a stock gm starter for years on my procharged 350 with edelbrock coated headers. It did the same crap stock. At the time accel sold a hi heat solinoid. I used that with a shield and never had an issue after that. There is a gasket under that solinoid that you can replace to keep down the heat transfer to the solinoid. That is what is causing the issue. The copper contacts heat up. Check your cables too. To be honest I have never had issues , but then again all my header setups have been coated. Idk the diff to wrapped, but coated there is a noticable difference in under hood heat. Let me find that stock starter. I never got rid of it because it was such a reliable starter with the solinoid change I kept it.

 

Stock huge starter is the main problem. Too close to the headers and heat soaks. Try a gear reduction starter next time. I had same problems on my Camaro and S10 until I finally replaced them. Been going years without issue now.

I prefer DBelectric for starters. Good prices and quick to get them to you. Good luck.

 

Are you sure your timing is right and you are not running lean? I advanced my timing 2 degrees (to make stock 6 btdc) and it helped. Also richer cars run cooler.

I went with ceramic headers, mini starter and open louvers in the hood

 

1. proper tuning is essential to temperature output of the engine. It should idle around 15-20* Of timing with 15:1 air fuel ratio give or take. It should cruise at 70mph with about 35-37* of timing and the same air fuel ratio. Limiting fuel and using "cruise" timing will help most of the temperature (energy) stay in the combustion chamber. Retarding the timing allows more of the temp into the exhaust system (higher EGT as you retard timing).

2. If the vehicle is N/A, temp control is not a big problem. We keep 1600*F turbines cool by using blanket/wrap/coatings and if things get serious a water/methano injection system does the trick. For N/A application the first thing to do is, using a high quality construction header (No cheap materials) install an EXHAUST WRAP (such as crushed lava rock wrap). You want to keep the temp IN the exhaust system, where it will help speed exhaust gas velocity (will help with performance). After wrapping, even a turbo manifold can rest on a spark plug wire, it will stay that cool if you do it right.