$200 from summit, that seems like a good deal. Worth it?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-2460hkr


I was reading that the y-pipes have to be purchased though.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-16767hkr
Is this true, even if I have the factory dual cat option (G92, N10, whatever RPO code it is)? Looking at the y-pipes, $280 for y-pipes, costs more than the headers themselves lol. Plus, in the picture it appears as if the pipes are designed for the single-cat exhaust setup. I could be wrong, I haven't been under the car in a while. I just didn't want to spend $280 on y-pipes that were made for single cat cars.

 

They're not a bad deal. I think you get what you pay for, and not a bit more. Reportedly the Doug's Y-pipe will bolt up and it's less expensive. Both the Doug's and Hooker's Y-pipe necks down to 2.5" at the Y. Some people don't care for the 3 bolt flat flange either. Unless they've changed the design in the last few years, the photos of the exhaust flange shown on the website don't look anything like the ones on the actual headers. I have a set from a few years ago, and the ports aren't anywhere near that clean, and the tubes protrude a bit.

 

I have them they were a nice upgrade over my summit racing headers and my friend said they were a nice upgrade over his flowtek headers. For both of us I made custom Y pipes that work well. The dougs Y pipe is a good option but you should cut the pipe off after the merger and weld on a 3" pipe.

I got mine used and then painted them and wrapped them.

I use these gaskets and the collectors don't leak

FlowTek 10025FLT
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/big-10025flt

FEL-PRO MS9275 for the heads no leaks
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ms9275b

ARP 100-1110 bolts for the heads the small hex really help tighten all the bolts. Tighten again after you run for a few hours

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-1110

 

Me and my friend used them on his 92 and they definitely made a improvement. We ran into some issues tho we had to bang the passenger side around the collector to get it to slide in and also the rear bolt would not go in on the passenger side. Also you may have to use a header bolt with a thinner head or grind the heads of the bolts because some hit the tubes and wouldn't let us screw them in. Also we used the Doug's Y-pipe and overall it fit decent, the flanges didn't seal to great tho there was a bit of a gap and we broke the bolts it came with trying to get them tight enough to seal the gap so we had to get some stronger bolts

 

Good info thanks. If i decide to take the risk and dump the air pump i might go with these.

 

I've got a set of those headers myself I may toss on soon or wait for new engine I aint decided.