Had these custom made for my own brake upgrade- These will withstand heavyduty road use- unlike Wilwoods hubs that are strickly for drag. 5.5lbs each.

 

Damn dude, how much did that run ya? Are they stock dimensions? I've wanted to do this for some time for my C5 brake swap. Did you make them in AutoCAD and have them machined?

 

$500 complete with studs and bearings & races. Studs are 1/2" instead of metric. Hub centric area is thicker than stock and rim will be slightly modified. 1/16" needs to be taken off the center lip of the iroc rim. If you feel inside they have a small lip on them and then open up in diameter inside. I will also have to have a hat machined to fit the larger center hole diameter also. They will be strong and lightweight.

 

yeah the big question is cost and is the a cadd file out there for them. my guess is they were free, other than material, and done on companey time. they look very good.

 

OUCH! 500 bones, damn. They do look great though. I think I'll stick with my nasty, rusty, old, cut down rotors to make my hubs for now

 

now if you put it back to the stock lug size, leave the longer hub centric area, but keep that the stock size too, and leave the possiblity of moving the edge where the rotor sits to be moved, and keep the price around $150 or so, and you could probly sell them



the rotor needs to come OUT to fit the thick ZR1 brakes.... it can stay stock for the rest....

 

I'm not selling them- and I didn't make them- I had them custom made for my intended use, roadracing. The center section needs to be thicker because 1) its aluminum- not steel, and 2) the thickness helps disapate heat from the bearings. The company that makes them does not want to use anything smaller than the 1/2" racing studs, they fit the stock wheels still, just have to change lugnuts. I am focusing on unsprung weight reduction, and this cost a little more than most care to spend.

 

nice Little more then my pocket book cares for though

 

Very nice.
Now if you're concerned with unsprung weight might I add a suggestion.... 3 letters, IRS. I'm dipping into the road racing scene myself and one things seems apparently clear... solid rear axles will ruin an otherwise good day of driving. That and stock brakes don't work no matter what pads you use.
If you don't mind me asking, what series are you going to be entering? If it's NASA let me know because I have some questions for you.

 

why spend all that time and money on IRS when what you really need is seat time.

 

lol, yeah you wish. The difference between IRS and solid rear axle on a bump around the apex of a corner can upset the car enough to get squirly and force you to the outside of a straight after recovery. If you're next turn is a right and there is traffic you might loose your spot. IRS would let that one wheel do it's buisness without disrupting the whole rear.
If I had the money I'd have a c4 vette for road racing but until then I'll stick with the camaro and drag racing.
Anybody here have an option about going to coil overs on a camaro and how they put the whole corner weight onto the strut towers. Isn't that a bad thing? Wouldn't you rather have the springs where they are and is the only added benifit ride height and corner weight balancing?

 

I think these guys know how to drive- thats me in the 3rd position hanging with a $500,000 Lola T-70 and full race A/C Cobra through some infield corners at Calif Speedway.

JP, this is just an open track play car- setup for everyday street use and an occational track day. I don't ever intend to run it full time racing. I am presently building a '67 Mini Cooper RHD 1275S for VARA racing.

 

Nice.
I agree seat-time is best but if you're spending money on parts to go fast on a road course I can only tell you that IRS is nice at high speed bumps.

 

Those are nice, I'd like to have a set. But like previously mentioned, I'd want a set to fit ZR1 rotors. IIRC.....Baer uses aluminum hubs like those for their 13" track kit. I assume it is the aluminum equivalent to a cut down 1LE rotor.

 

Halfpint,

What are the specs of your car to be keeping up on the track?