Fabrication wizards, any ideas on a automatic hatch open/close?
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From: New Jersey
Car: 87 Black Formula
Engine: Rollercammed Lg4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt Locker
Fabrication wizards, any ideas on a automatic hatch open/close?
It would be cool to be able to open/close the hatch from inside the car, and perhaps by remote (alarmsender) too.
Any ideas on how this could be done, not too expensive?
Hydraulics would of course do the trick, but I was thinking something in the line of a swingarm on the forward mount. Don't know how it could be done though, I'm not a fab wiz myself.
In the drawing, I though of some kind of contrapment, electric perhaps who would elongate or shorten the length of the strut, and by doing so, making it go up and down.
So what do you think? Any way to make this work?
Any ideas on how this could be done, not too expensive?
Hydraulics would of course do the trick, but I was thinking something in the line of a swingarm on the forward mount. Don't know how it could be done though, I'm not a fab wiz myself.
In the drawing, I though of some kind of contrapment, electric perhaps who would elongate or shorten the length of the strut, and by doing so, making it go up and down.
So what do you think? Any way to make this work?
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
Transmission: 6 speed MT
Agreed. Linear actuators are cheap and come in tons of sizes to duplicate the original struts. The only trickery would be the wiring of an amperage toggle relay to stop movement at full open or full closed positions if you want it to be a one button operation. Pretty easy really...
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Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Car: 87 Black Formula
Engine: Rollercammed Lg4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt Locker
Where do you get these linear actuators, and what do they look like? The wiring would be the easy part. I have a couple of mercury switches who vould do the trick. They only need to be adjusted be bending the mount. Relays and other things would also be easy. Hard part is the mechanicals, especially if anything needs to be fabricated. But I could get it done in a mchine shop of course.
But will a linear actuator be strong enough? The hatch is really heavy you know...
But will a linear actuator be strong enough? The hatch is really heavy you know...
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
There is someone on the boards who I have talked to about this, that has actually done it. He says he only needed one linear actuator (kept the stock-replacement gas strut on the other side.) Using 2 actuators creates the issue of a possible difference in speed between the two sides, and BIG issues if one of the actuators was to quit working and the other was to continue. You should be able to get an actuator with as much pull/push strength as you need (although stronger=more expensive.)
Wish I could remember who it was that had done it......
Wish I could remember who it was that had done it......
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
Transmission: 6 speed MT
Originally posted by tilstad
Where do you get these linear actuators, and what do they look like? The wiring would be the easy part. I have a couple of mercury switches who vould do the trick. They only need to be adjusted be bending the mount. Relays and other things would also be easy. Hard part is the mechanicals, especially if anything needs to be fabricated. But I could get it done in a mchine shop of course.
But will a linear actuator be strong enough? The hatch is really heavy you know...
Where do you get these linear actuators, and what do they look like? The wiring would be the easy part. I have a couple of mercury switches who vould do the trick. They only need to be adjusted be bending the mount. Relays and other things would also be easy. Hard part is the mechanicals, especially if anything needs to be fabricated. But I could get it done in a mchine shop of course.
But will a linear actuator be strong enough? The hatch is really heavy you know...
We used two actuators and wired a toggle relay and amp surge shut off relay to it for one button remote operation. If one would quit, the other side tripped it's surge relay... at full open or full closed positions, both actuators would trip their relays to stop movement. We removed the stock latch since it would have been much more complicated to keep it. We used the stock strut mounting points, but made our own studs from hardware purchased at a local home improvement store, mainly some cold steel 3/8" bar, drill/tap the ends for the all thread to screw into the hatch.
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From: Orland Park, IL, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.45
I was just thinking about this at work today. I think it would be really sweet to do this to your hood too. Just replace the hood struts with actuators. Can anyone draw up a simple diagram of what you would need to do this project and how to wire it, either for the hatch or hood.
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From: E.B.F. TN
Car: Tree Huggers
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Originally posted by bnoon
......We removed the stock latch since it would have been much more complicated to keep it. ...
......We removed the stock latch since it would have been much more complicated to keep it. ...
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Car: 91Z, 91RS, '84 Jimmy
Engine: L98, 355, L98
Transmission: 700R, T56, 700R4
That's what I have in mind. You could even use the factory motor switch (the one that tells the motor to go up) to initiate the actuator on opening, to make it a true "one-touch" operation from the stock switch. Then a simple pushbutton inside the hatch to close it, and it'll ease itself down to the latch, and the pulldown motor will seal her up as you climb into the car. Totally slick!!!!
Even if the transition from actuator to pull-down wasn't smooth, all you'd have to do is add a flexible mount to the actuator (i.e. soft rubber bushing at the body end) to keep the pull-down and actuator from binding each other. That wouldn't affect the sealing of the hatch, since the stock latch and pull-down would be retained.
Even if the transition from actuator to pull-down wasn't smooth, all you'd have to do is add a flexible mount to the actuator (i.e. soft rubber bushing at the body end) to keep the pull-down and actuator from binding each other. That wouldn't affect the sealing of the hatch, since the stock latch and pull-down would be retained.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: New Jersey
Car: 87 Black Formula
Engine: Rollercammed Lg4
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 10 Bolt Locker
I really like the idea, but it would be hard to choose the right actuators unless i keep trying some, and then it surely would become expensive. If I knew axcatly what would fit I wouldn't be so reluctant.
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I'd be interested in this kind of thing for my hood (my trunk too maybe but it isn't as big of a deal considering how small/light my trunk is. I've been googling "automotive linear actuators" and I'm coming up with a HUGE sea of topics and I'm somewhat confused. Does anyone have any hands on knowledge that could share?
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
Transmission: 6 speed MT
Originally posted by Red Devil
Why not convert it to a power one. The actuators should transition smooth enough to not burn the motor of the pull down and then you have an even slicker set-up.
Why not convert it to a power one. The actuators should transition smooth enough to not burn the motor of the pull down and then you have an even slicker set-up.
Originally posted by TheGreatJ
Even if the transition from actuator to pull-down wasn't smooth, all you'd have to do is add a flexible mount to the actuator (i.e. soft rubber bushing at the body end) to keep the pull-down and actuator from binding each other. That wouldn't affect the sealing of the hatch, since the stock latch and pull-down would be retained.
Even if the transition from actuator to pull-down wasn't smooth, all you'd have to do is add a flexible mount to the actuator (i.e. soft rubber bushing at the body end) to keep the pull-down and actuator from binding each other. That wouldn't affect the sealing of the hatch, since the stock latch and pull-down would be retained.
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
If the latch mechanism was completely removed from the hood, would something like an actuator hold the hood down at speed? Even over 100?
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Damnit. I have all these ideas floating around and no one has any more input!
How do the auto hatches for all the new cars open? Same with all those auto minivan doors? What kind of systems do they use?
How do the auto hatches for all the new cars open? Same with all those auto minivan doors? What kind of systems do they use? Supreme Member
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
Transmission: 6 speed MT
Originally posted by iansane
If the latch mechanism was completely removed from the hood, would something like an actuator hold the hood down at speed? Even over 100?
If the latch mechanism was completely removed from the hood, would something like an actuator hold the hood down at speed? Even over 100?
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From: Tacoma, Wa
Car: '91 TA vert
Engine: turboLSx
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Would there be a way to fabricate a clasp style lock to go with that that could be motorized to slide open instead of the stock version needing upward motion to unlock completely?
Last edited by iansane; Sep 12, 2004 at 11:32 PM.
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