homemade lca
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 284
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From: arkansas
Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
Engine: 350,289
Transmission: munice 4 speed,c4
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
homemade lca
i have a friend that has a race chassis shop and i was wondering if he made me some lca's out of mild steel tubing and 3/4 rod ends if they would hold up to a drag only 91 camaro and also would they help with the wheel hop could i also make the ta and the panhard bar to if all are adjustable and make the sfc i should be able to make eveything alot stiffer and he is also building the cage if anyone in is interested to see what we come up with let me know and when we get started ill post pics
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Or-eh-gun
Car: 2012 Nissan Leaf
Engine: 80-kW AC synchronous electric motor
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: n/a
well, i don't think i can answer many of your "questions" (without any question marks it's hard to tell). but i can put some punctuation in there that would help people who can answer them to read it. lets try this:
i hope i got all that right.
ok. you can make them all adjustable. as long as you thread the tubing for the rod ends you should be able to have adjustability.what size mild steel are you going to use? spohn uses 1.25"X.95" mild steel on there spherical rod end tube lower control arms. they say those are for "race applications". anything stronger then stock (which is mostly anything) will help decrease wheel hop. have you ever had the stock LCAs out? you can flex them (twisting motion) by hand.
as far as a panhard bar goes... again depending on the size of tubing you are using yes. now the tourqe arm i would make out of MUCH thicker stuff then what you would use for your LCAs. spohn for example uses .12" wall tubing for the one they make.
good luck
i have a friend that has a race chassis shop. i was wondering: if he made me some lca's out of mild steel tubing and 3/4 rod ends; would hold up to a drag only 91 camaro? would they help with the wheel hop? could i also make the ta and the panhard bar too? will i be able to make them all adjustable? if I make the sfc i should be able to make eveything alot stiffer. and he is also building the cage. if anyone in is interested to see what we come up with let me know, and when we get started ill post pics.
ok. you can make them all adjustable. as long as you thread the tubing for the rod ends you should be able to have adjustability.what size mild steel are you going to use? spohn uses 1.25"X.95" mild steel on there spherical rod end tube lower control arms. they say those are for "race applications". anything stronger then stock (which is mostly anything) will help decrease wheel hop. have you ever had the stock LCAs out? you can flex them (twisting motion) by hand.
as far as a panhard bar goes... again depending on the size of tubing you are using yes. now the tourqe arm i would make out of MUCH thicker stuff then what you would use for your LCAs. spohn for example uses .12" wall tubing for the one they make. good luck
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Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 284
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From: arkansas
Car: 1928 dodge coupe, 64 1/2 mustang
Engine: 350,289
Transmission: munice 4 speed,c4
Axle/Gears: 9" 3.00, 9" 3.25
thanks for the lesson why are some people in here such a**holes about crap that dont matter but thanks for the other info
Originally posted by 91drag
thanks for the lesson why are some people in here such a**holes about crap that dont matter but thanks for the other info
thanks for the lesson why are some people in here such a**holes about crap that dont matter but thanks for the other info
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Or-eh-gun
Car: 2012 Nissan Leaf
Engine: 80-kW AC synchronous electric motor
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: n/a
i took great care not sound condecending (sp?) in my post. it is dificult to convay tone with just text. i realy was not trying to be an a-hole about it, sorry to offend. but dude, it is incredibly hard to read what you wrote. i know you know what you intended to get across. but it was verry difficult for me to make sense of that. again, sorry to offend you.
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
i wonder is anybody has actually gone out and made theirs out of this size tube, and fit energy or prothane bushings without a problem. Im thinking Ill just pull off the stocks and measure the eyelets with a caliper, so i know that the bushings will fit without any extra play.
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
i searched and this was the most related to what i needed to know, and it was still unanswered. figured there was no need to start a new thread.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Car: 1988 Firebird, 2000 GTP
Engine: 327
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9" posi, 4.11
Just t keep an old thread going... I made my own SFC's out of 1.5" x .125" square steel tubing. WOW.. what a difference. Bought the Spohn LCA's... I would probably make them to heavy, plus now I have someone to blame if they break. I'm planning on making the torque arm. 1.5" x .125" round. The rod ends are chromoly (3/4" up front, dual 5/8" in back using grade-8 5/8" hardware all around.
Yes, you are correct with the diameter/thickness measurements. It would be possible to make you're own control arms within those specs, but the hard part would be getting the bushings to fit in nice and tight. You'd probably end up getting some pipe that is oversize in wall thickness and having it bored out to the correct inner diameter. Either measure the inner diameter of the control arms, or the outer of the bushings. Be sure to subtract a few thousandths(2-4, I'm not sure how many would be good exactly) to the bushing diameter so that it's a press fit. You don't want it to be sliding around when cornering. I have some new Energy suspension bushings laying around I could measure up for you if you need the measurements.
Yes, you are correct with the diameter/thickness measurements. It would be possible to make you're own control arms within those specs, but the hard part would be getting the bushings to fit in nice and tight. You'd probably end up getting some pipe that is oversize in wall thickness and having it bored out to the correct inner diameter. Either measure the inner diameter of the control arms, or the outer of the bushings. Be sure to subtract a few thousandths(2-4, I'm not sure how many would be good exactly) to the bushing diameter so that it's a press fit. You don't want it to be sliding around when cornering. I have some new Energy suspension bushings laying around I could measure up for you if you need the measurements.
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From: Fresno, CA
Car: 87 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7 350 TPI
Transmission: stage2 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 for now
alright cool...Im ordering the bushings for myself, so Ill get the measurements then. Thanks for ofering though.
If I made the ends the same diameter as stock then I shouldnt have any problem with the holes being oversized right? Im going to make them the same exact length as the stock lca also, just tubular and using chromoly. I dont think I should run into any problems if i follow the stocks.
If I made the ends the same diameter as stock then I shouldnt have any problem with the holes being oversized right? Im going to make them the same exact length as the stock lca also, just tubular and using chromoly. I dont think I should run into any problems if i follow the stocks.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I was going to make some up.
Using 1.25" tube, .12" wall I think. (or is that a pipe size?) With tube thread adapters that simple weld on. Then use a 3/4" rod end, with a 3/4->1/2" delrin bushing to give it a bit less metal on metal. Then 1/2" bolts. That's for the axle side, the car side will still be a poly bushing. This makes it a homemade poly/rod end LCA.
Using 1.25" tube, .12" wall I think. (or is that a pipe size?) With tube thread adapters that simple weld on. Then use a 3/4" rod end, with a 3/4->1/2" delrin bushing to give it a bit less metal on metal. Then 1/2" bolts. That's for the axle side, the car side will still be a poly bushing. This makes it a homemade poly/rod end LCA.
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