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How do you break tack wields

Old Jun 28, 2006 | 12:17 AM
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From: Freindswood
Car: 1989 rs camaro
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How do you break tack wields

How do you break tack wields with out damaging any thing but the piece you are taking off. I have the normal things in my house and want to do it on Thursday on my day off please help
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 12:53 AM
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From: Chilliwack,B.C., Canada
Car: 1987 Transam
Engine: 1991 350 Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 w/stage 2 shift kit
If you are good enough with a hammer and chisel you shouldn't damage the piece you want to save (might have to do some grinding on it to get the weld back flush again). They also do make tack weld removers, seen them at some shops around here. I haven't used one, so I don't know how it works, but you might want to look into it.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 09:55 AM
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I think you're talking about spot weld cutters, not tack weld removers. Spot weld cutters are basically a miniature hole saw with a spring loaded pilot point. the material around the spot weld is cut away so panels can be separated. They can be rejoined by simply filling in the cut area with a MIG or TIG, restoring original integrity and finish.

A small disc grinder and/or sharp chisel will separate many tack welds. If you got very generous with yout "tack" the weld may be a little too much for a chisel.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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From: Chilliwack,B.C., Canada
Car: 1987 Transam
Engine: 1991 350 Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 w/stage 2 shift kit
You are right Vader, it was late and I wasn't thinking properly with the heat we have had around here. My bad.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 11:44 AM
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Nothing bad about it. When the caffeine starts to wear off, and the day gets long, we can all get a little less alert. If I had a nickel for every time I screwed up (or an amount proportionate to the magnitude of the screw-up) I’d be donating $37 million to Bill Gates’ Foundation, too.

It's never any fun to have to undo fabrication work. I think we've all had some of those "tack" welds that "tacked" a helluva lot better than we expected or planned. Sometimes a RLCH (Rather Large Copulating Hammer) becomes the tool of choice as the last option before the cutting torch.

Getting a little heat along the west coast, eh?
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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From: Freindswood
Car: 1989 rs camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
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thanks yall that helps alot and i hope the tack wield comes out of the fram with no damage thanks yall
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 05:22 PM
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From: Lake Stevens, WA
Car: 84 Z28, 92 C4 suspension F&R, ABS
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If you have a die grinder and a cut-off wheel, it should only take a few minutes. Just don't cut too deep. Good luck!
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 11:03 PM
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From: Freindswood
Car: 1989 rs camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
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thanks
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Old Jun 30, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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From: Chilliwack,B.C., Canada
Car: 1987 Transam
Engine: 1991 350 Bored .030 over
Transmission: TH350 w/stage 2 shift kit
Yeah it was a little hot over, on Monday and Tuesday it was about 35*C (95*F) or so, not all bad but we aren't used to it here, we usually have about 86*F as a high. Its cooled down now, but its suppose to get hot for the work week, just what I don't need, I have to wear coveralls at work.

One thing about using a die grinder and a cut off disk, make sure that the disk has a speed rating that matches or is above the speed of the die grinder. We had a guy a work almost die a couple of years ago using the wrong speed disk on an angle grinder. There is also die grinders out there that have a shield around them to protect you in case the disk blows up, go to 326 Heavy Duty for an example (it says its for exhaust pipes but I have cut through 1/2" Stainless with it).
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