I am curious, has anyone ever flipped the lower control arms inboard, cut away interfering metal and basically "mini tubbed" a third gen? i have a parts car i am fixing to hack up to expieriment with, any experienced feedback is greatly appreciated, i figure i have to relocate the springs inboard, i am looking to get a extra 3 inches of inner clearence.

 

Three inches total, or per side? Three inches total wouldn't be a big deal, but six inches would change the spring points considerably. You'll need a really stiff sway bar to keep down the body roll - Even on launches. The rest shouldn't be a really difficult job. Relocate the spring perches, shock, and control arm anchor points. Adjust the Panhard bar length, then find a really still sway bar. The exhaust may get interesting, too. And the inner sail panels and wheel openings might need some reinforcement if you move the joint due to the wider wheel openings. A caged car would have less trouble with body stiffness after a tub job, but keeping the body unitized otherwise may require some planning.

 

Well, i am looking for 6 total, you confirmed my suspisions of moving the springs and shocks, will i have to mess with my fuel tank?I see allot of cars with side exit exhaust, so i guess its legal, i did not think of a cage for the extra support, but i was going that rout anyway, do you think the ws6 swaybars i jacked off a 89 formula will be sufficient?I am getting a adjustable panhard bar anyway, have you seen this dont on a street car?I like the fat tires and having the function traction wise, i want to tuck a 345/35/15, and a 335/35/17,any additional info is appreciated.

 

Moving the springs anywhere means more than a mini tub. You can cut off the sheet metal over the springs and reinstall a smooth piece of sheet metal to gain a little bit. The spring needs to sit where it is because of all the reinforcing metal above it. The upper part of the spring sits in a steel pocket which is part of the rear sheet metal frame rail. You can't tub the car any more than that outside part of the frame rail. I suppose if you fabricate a coil over spring system mounted off the back of the diff you could remove the factory springs and shocks but the factory frame rails can't be cut back any more than what they are now.

This is what you need to do.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/fabr...fications.html

If you want to stick a bigger tire than that amount of room will allow then you need to do a complete back half.

I have 29.5 x 10.5 slicks mounted under my fenders.

That first tire size you gave is garbage. The tire height is less than 22" tall. The 17" rim tire has no sidewall and is about 26-1/4" tall. You would be better off finding out what tires fit best instead of finding a tire size and try to make it fit.

 

Well i am beong a bit greedy for a street car, but i like to abuse the car at the track often, i am going with a 496 stroker in the long run, but i want to know i will not have too bad of a traction issue, i am tucking a 295/5015 on the street and a 26x10.5x16 @the track, i just want to keep it arround a 27 inch tall tire but i want 12 inches of rubber in the back, how well would a coil over work on my car?

 

A traditional coil over system that mounts the shocks on the backside of the diff won't work. The panhard bar is in the way. As long as there's some place to mount the upper shock mount bar, they could be installed in front of the diff.

There are kits to convert the factory shock into a coil over but I have no idea if the top of the shock mount is really strong enough to support the car under severe use.

You're not going to get 12" of rubber on the car without doing some serious modifications or the tire will have to stick outside the fenders. My tires are listed as 10.5" wide but putting a ruler across the tread only shows 10". The sidewall of the tire is much wider. Typical wide tires only have 8-9" of tread. I'm in the process of doing a back half on my car and my new tires will have 14" of tread. That's a LOT of tire.

 

Well i will do what i can on my parts car and let you know what happens,I wonder if i can reinforce the shock mount for strength, any additional suggestions greatly appreciated.

 

go to yellowbullet.com. click on message board. you need to register. after you register scroll down to stock suspension and you will see a topic that i started. im 85z28 on that board. it will say 3rd gen camaro mini tub. i have the black and white car in that avatar.
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those guys have real drag radial racecars and have real mini tubb jobs done to there cars!

 

Check with Neil on the Phase 1 IROC restoration thread. He refabbed his trailing arm, and reworked the inner fender panels. Dunno how much he did would help your fitment, but it might do it, or give you ideas.

 

Neil also widened his fenders by about an inch to inchand a half. check his post on the body forumn its called phase 1

 

Yea, I've been reading since page 5, and read the first 5...

Not sure how much inner changes are needed without the outer skin widening.

 

did you go to yellowbullet.com?

 

I got crappy dial up for now, it did not wanna load, thanks for the extra info, Stephen helped out allot, it looks as if i will get away with a 315/45/15 minimum, thats not too bad, got the SFCs installed with the exhaust Monday, the cutouts work great, i am going to do the inner fender mods when i get the 408 built, i will need it then.

 

Are you saying you fit a 315 tire and wheel, with no body mods (inner or outer), and no trailing arm mod?

What BS did you use, if that is the case.

 

No, sorry, i will do the mods Stephen 87 IROC shown above, lower control arms will probably be tubular, i have rolled the lips of the wheel wells before i ever installed the 295/50s, it looks as if i will be able to get away with the 315s after the mods are complete, rolling the wells seemed to flare the fenders anyway, sorry about the confusion, the convo pros were used as i have no knowledge of the back spacing, i saw them on a 89 TA and likes them so i forked over 300 bucks, needed rear tires and i wanted the 295s anyway.

 

I`m a reg member at that site, that`s a good thread for us little big tire guys, how quick is that single turbo sb car mentioned over there?

 

what single turbo camaro, the black one with the 315-50 radials? if so his name is brian christy, the car runs 8.20's . he live about 45 minutes from me.

 

were talking about this car right?
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this is my car

 

Yep that`s it, 8.20`s is nice for a stock suspension car. What size wheels are on your car in that second picture 15x10`s? what B.S. ?

 

You guys all suck, i dont even wanna ever post my pics of my junk, seems like everyone has a friggin paint jod while im sportin primer, hell, i guess its whats under the hood, i did not build a show car, you guys are still coolStiletto, your ride is pretty clean man, whats your best time???

 

what's the link to that camaro build up?

 

 

link to what camaro build up?
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they are 15x10 with 5.5 back spacing
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the motor that was in the car is a stock bottom end 355 with vortec heads, it went 10.50 with 1.41 60ft. and 150 horse kit. this picture was taken at the world street nationals on pump gas

 

here is a few more

 

Awsome, i like the paint scheme too, different, my motor just started nocking for no reason today with 50 miles on it, i think it was use of cheap "free" bearings, sounds like a spun rod bearing, so i guess its back to the drawing board, was really getting it tuned to the nitty gritty, breaks my heart, i like going bigger every time i pull a motor, but my pockets that are small are getting even smaller, hopefully a quick fix, we'll see, ill keep you guys posted, i would like to see 10s with the 383, but i fear i am pushing the stock rods to their limit on natural aspiration.

 

use clevite bearings, thats all i use and check bearing clearances also, that helps alot.depending on your application you should have 2.5-2.7 .

 

We'll see, gotta wait to see if i gotta move before i tear it down, got some pics of my junk, looks worse than usual due to the engine install and a muddy driveway....




Not verry pretty.

 

where I am so far- 13.5 inches between the inner wheel well and inner fender- working on a wishbone locator-LCA and axle brackets offset inboard 2.25 inches

 

I would love to see that for myself...

 

Stiletto...I love that look on your car. Maybe pull them in 1"? It looks like the tire goes past the outer lip, otherwise they'd be a perfect fit to me. Am I right on the fit?

 

thats what i want to do is get the tire in at least a inch, two would be awsome.

 

What wheel offset you got??? Cannot go a little deeper with the mods posted above to the fender well???

 

i have a 15x10 wheel with 5.5 inches of back spacing, that is a 325-50-15 mt drag radial

 

Would it work with a 6 inch offset, with the mods listed above??? Maybe 6.5???

 

zones89rs-- where did you get the l-88 style hood?ive been looking for 1 like that

 

Man i got that one off of a 83 T top Z28 i had back in 2002, i had it on that one when i got it, then on a 90, then on my current 89, i love it, it is so different...i have seen them for sale somwhere, ill let you know if i find it.

 

If nothing else, get a 'glass flat, stock one, and 'glass on the JC Whitney. Others make the scoop I'm sure. That was just the first one I found.

 

Here it is...

http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/8292camaro.htm

There you go.