Iroczracer

Thinking about attending some ECTA events at Maxton, and need some info. A non hotchkiss type rear end is required for any speed over 150 mph. My question is what are the flange to flange measurements of the stock rear end. I have thought about a Strange rear, that way my LT1 rear brakes can be retained. Also here is another option... My car is currently all together and unable to be measured....

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/1287...Rear-Ends.html


Any help or thoughts........

robertg

iTrader: (2)

you'd have to come up with a way to mount the torque arm if you went with one of those axles....

Iroczracer

Some were in the past I think someone made a third member with cast in ta mounts..So far it's been imposable to find. I have found a bracket from Currie, this could be an option. I like the beefy race look of the Winters GN rear end. Of course the popular 12 bolt would be great.

Here is pics of the Currie mount..

robertg

iTrader: (2)

i forgot that currie made a tq arm mount. doh!

that could very well be a good option.

AlkyIROC

The Winters diff is just a 9" with a floater kit. You can buy a Moser or Currie third gen 9" with a floater kit if you want. You can also make your own floater kit if you have enough fabrication skills.

http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/ff9/

Iroczracer

If I understand the rule book, you can use a 12 bolt with c-clip eliminators. It may not be possible though, my wife will be entering nursing this fall. We were not expecting her to get in so soon, so money may be the problem. The car does not have a cage, fire system, or anything the rules mandates. If everything works, it may be running in 3 months. But depends on actually getting it to run..

AlkyIROC

Why do you need a floater? You stated that the class you're running in says you must have a non Hotchkiss design. Hotchkiss is a banjo type axle (Ford 9", Dodge 8-3/4" etc). That Winters diff is a Hotchkiss design since it's a 9".

What you need is a 12 bolt or a Dana 60 with C-clip eliminators.

Iroczracer

Thanks, was a little unclear on the definition of Hotchkiss. I knew the winters would work and for the price it's not a bad place to start.

Iroczracer

I emailed Currie Enterprise on a GN type 9, you can order one that will bolt in but has a 5 x 5 drive hub. For some reason you can not order one with 5 x 4.75 drive hub in the GN type, only standard flange semi floater. Why can you oder the 5 x 4.75 drive hubs from Winter's, Speedway, and several others that I found on the net....Both GN type either 5 x 5 or 5 x 4.75 would identical, except the drive hubs. Correct??

AlkyIROC

5 on 5 is the large GM bolt pattern. Commonly used on full size cars like B-bodies and pickup trucks. A full floating axle is large so it probably requires the slightly larger bolt pattern. The old 3/4 ton trucks used an 8 bolt rim.

The wheel isn't bolted to the axle. A full floating axle is like the old GM 3/4+ ton trucks. A large axle spindle has a hub bolted onto it with axle bearing nuts. The wheel is bolted to the hub. The axle is inserted into the tube and bolted to the hub. The weight of the vehicle rides on the hub bearings which are on the spindle. None of the vehicle weight is carried by the axle which is inside the tube. All the power through the axle is transfered to the hub through the attaching bolts (usually 8 to 10).

With a full floating axle, you can pull the axles out and still roll the vehicle around since you don't touch the hub bearings.

Many of the Stock Cars use the 5 on 5 or larger bolt pattern.

Iroczracer

Thanks for your replays! The general concept of floating axle and semi floating that uses an axle shaft is understood. The problem is, none seems to understand my question. The GN Grand national rear housing is a full floating 9" Ford, that uses bolt on drive hubs, with bearings. Just as you mentioned...Most circle track use the 5 x 5 bolt pattern to hold the wheel on the drive hub. If you look at Speedway Motors, Winters, and a few others you can buy a 5 x 4.75 drive hub. ( Or Hub) Currie told me the rear end could be done using the stock suspension mounts, but could only do it in a 5 X 5 drive hub. If the housing was built, the only difference would be which drive hub you wanted to use?? You can order with almost everything from Speedway, except the third member for $ 750. With the asking price of 12 bolt is outrageous, and the 9" would probably out live the car..

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/1287...Rear-Ends.html

AlkyIROC

Why are you so hung up on the GN housing? You can buy the 9" housing that will bolt right into a third gen.

Unless you're building a stock car or plan on pushing 1500+ HP on the dragstrip, you don't need a full floater.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...91&p=1518.9500
http://www.strangeengineering.net/ne...earendAD1.html
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/073.html
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/074.html
http://www.moserengineering.com/Page...ous-ford9.html

Iroczracer

Not really hung up on the GN housing, just looking at option, price, and reliability. I know there is good and bad in all of them. With the full floating axles and 5/8 studs the GN rear will more than cover any speed requirements. I wished you could get c-clip eliminators for the stock rear. With the money that has went into it, could have already had a new housing. The stock rear even with all of these modifications is good up to 150mph. If the HSR combo does not give problems, the car will go on the street, the modified stock should live for a long time. But if the HSR proves problematic it will go in favor of a Demon carb, and we will go racing. Like I said earlier Currie told he could the GN housing, that would use the stock suspension mounts. Have you priced a Currie 12 bolt, Strange 12?, you can a GN type, with recovered housing, drive hubs, axles, bearings, seals, brake rotors, minus third member, for under $600.…

Don't you run a 9"???