What do your passenger seats look like?! Do they sit a foot higher?

 

who? me?

 

no lol. . .

 

He didn't modify the pass. floor, there's plenty of room there. The halfshafts run very close to the batwing.

 

no, lol wtf did he bottem out on. . .

 

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LOL didn't even notice that at first

 

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this is absolutely sick
great work buddy. its lookin great

 

looks good! keep it up. got a question tho... when i did my ford 8.8 swap the centering of the wheel in the wheel housing is no longer even. both sides are off and different from eachother, AND i can tell your housing isnt exactly centered in the wheel well either, kinda looks like its closer to the back side. how are you gona remedy this(since your bars dont seem adjustable)? Im gona get some adjustable LCAs for mine and even out each side, but this happens with aftermarket rear swaps apparently.

 

first of all I love the stars and bars in the back ground.....but which width and offset ZR1 wheels are those, and how well did they fit in the wheel well? I love the progress, and you have pretty much sealed my cars fate, I am definitely going this route instead of a 9".

 

um if your rear end isnt centered in the wheel wells, its probably because you welded your mounts on crooked. His looks pretty centered to me, and if the wheels were slightly back in the wells, what does it really matter?

 

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looking good

 

YIKES!

Is that front notch gonna fit under the stock plastic interior?

Are you going to box (at least C-channel them) in the hanging IRS mounts?

 

this is the same rear end my grandpas got in a 38' buick century. its lookin good. and i also agree nice flag. looks like mine in my garage.

 

No, it won't fit.

 

Damn the..can you say.. hand me another spool of Wire!

 

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You've done your homework, and it looks like everything is coming together as planned. I can't wait to see the results.

 

Looks good....

I may just find one to put in my 91 Z.

 

i vote fiberglass interior panels... shape it out of foam and form it to fit however you want

 

well im sure my brackets where alittle off, but not much. i used an angle finder and took measurements of the stock housing and transfered it all over to the new rear... the problem was that the brackets were on the 9bolt and they are only 2.5-2.75" axle tubes.... the ford 8.8 uses 3" tubes so the brackets are all gona stick out more than stock causing alignment issues which is my point. they arent crooked but one is prob alittle shorter than the other due to removing more material trying to get it off the old rear.

with all the work he is doing and the time hes taking to do it It would be a shame to not fix such a slight problem that he will notice when its completed. why not take care of it now when he has the chance.. it could just be the angle of the pic but its pretty close id say. anytime u do a swap with an aftermarket rear or fab something up yourself its always a good idea to have adjustable LCAs etc to adjust for differences etc. I was also just asking if he was gona make the suspension adjustable.

turning out real good, u must be spending many an hrs on it! good work. wat thickness is that steel?

 

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Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your build w/pics. This is one of those things that makes this forum awesome.

 

I would love, LOVE to put an IRS setup in my car, but I have nowhere near the amount of knowledge and skill it would take. That looks great!

 

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HA!

it is pretty cool seeing this done. I had though about it a while back, but it never went anywhere.

 

Please click one of the Quick Reply icons in the posts above to activate Quick Reply.

 

oh really?

 

I think he messed up...

 

Yea, sorry bout that....LOL! Hey, not t get off sublect, but i couldnt help but notice the after market tach in the stock dash! Did the back of that tach just slide in the existing factory hole, or did you have to cut the the panel. Anyhow! The project lookes great man! Id never have the guts to do that to my ride. Good luck with the rest. I hope its what youd hoped for.

 

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so i can pay you to do this to my car right?

 

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you are making lay out prints for all your cut parts..right..
your going to make a Kit for the Guys who want to try what your doing.

cuss you know there will be guys who will ask for them..

you could buy a Junker body $30 bucks do it all over a 2nd time with Video..and make the Kit.. you think it's funny now. but thats what other did back when a Guy wanted to make A arms & K Members. for His camaro.. you have alot of Git up and Go.. make it pay off for you..
who knows what will come of it...

i see 3 or 4 parts you could make out of 1 piece without Cutting..just bending/pressing
(I know you see them to now also)
but this is how money is made...i could never do that to my car.(im a 9" guy).but thats me..
if it works you should think about it.. if you even sold 2 or 3 you could make a mark for your self.
like others have.. it's no Joke...

i took my hobby..and it pays for my House.and bills for the last 4 years..

 

I would love to get a kit to put one in. I never had the time/guts/brains/skills/***** to do it.

 

At this point in my life, I'm lacking the time/guts/***** to do the swap.

Will you be grinding the welds in the wheel well smooth or just call it a day and cover it with some undercoating? I know it's a long way off but I'm just curious.

 

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he has a good point there.

 

i think it would be a weld in Kit...

if it was even close to bolt in.. it would need a patnd. or Trans Dapt. would make a copy and be selling it in a week....LOL

remember all the bolt/weld in pro street back half kits in the 80's..

on a side note:
one thing you can use to cover up any thing under a car. thats easy to remove
(if you ever want to).. is Tool Dip it's the same stuff you have on the handles of tools.
you thin it out with Napatha (spelling sorry). and spray it..drys in sec's when sprayed.

and you can peel it off in 1 piece if you ever want to take it off.. comes in
red
black
blue
gray
yellow
green
you can mix them as well..

it's better then the undercoat.. as this tool dip comes off when you want it to..score and peel..

 

yea but where would u get a gallon of that lol.... and how well is the adhesion to bare metal etc. it would have to be etched or prepped of some sort. if your gona be undercoated the best would prob be a spray on RHINO liner or lizard skin... they are pretty $$ but worth every penny bc they are impossible to destroy lol. I saw one guy who dipped his entire rear end in urathane and made it about 1/8" thick, he could smack it with a hammer and it would just bounce off lol.

 

Not sure I'd wanna dip MY rearend in that stuff.......

 

Not totally true. My dad had the bed of his truck coated with the RHINO liner and we did some pretty good damage to it. One time we had some wood from a fence we tore down and there were some nails still sticking out of it... well as we pulled the 4x4 out, the nail cut through the liner down to the metal like a knife through butter. Another time we were unloading some cylinders from the back and by the time we were done, we noticed streak marks and waves in it were they were dragged to the tail gate. I'll admit that stuff is strong, but it is not impossible to destroy.

 

Stephen... well obviously it was disassembled and the insides where plugged but the rear came out nice... had no sharp edges and had a nice texture to it.

racinggeek... haha well u stuck nails into it lol... wat do u expect. i cant even run(pressing down) a screwdriver over undercoating/paint/spray paint/POR15/powdercoating without it scratching/peeling or watev.

 

So what are you going to do about keeping the batwing from twisting out of the car the first time you hit the throttle?

Unlike all these guys, I had a C4 until a few months ago, and was very active in the C4 community. Without a cbeam, or something to stabalize the batwing it's going to rip right out of the car.. Hell, even with the cbeam they eitehr break the beam, break the end of the trans, or the weak aluminum diff housing splits.


When you step on the throttle, the batwing is going to want to twist and put the pinion straight up. I don't care how strong you make the brackets on the side, you'll just end up breaking the batwing instead. The housing is meant to be held steady by the cbeam.

-- Joe

 

i thought he was using the tq arm.... i see the mount i think with the 2 long bolts.

"When you step on the throttle, the batwing is going to want to twist and put the pinion straight up." this is what the tq arm solves... not familar with the IRS except on my bros 68 vette and 74 and 78 vettes but i never helped with the rears. wat is the Cbeam?

 

you dont need a Gal of it.. 2 QT's will cover it all.

it will stick to the iner fenders just fine.. just clean with paint thiner befor sprying.

its a nice finnish that can take a beatn.. and comes off when you want it to with out beatn you.. Score and peel..do it right it comes off in 1 piece.

you can keep it new looking with the same stuff you use on your tires.. Just spray it
and it will look new..if you use black..

all the rest you can wash like your car..

the Big thing is rocks dont chip it.. after all it's like Rubber..

i use it on cars.
and full auto beltfed Guns.. to keep the guns from getting beat up from the brass.
works Fantastic! have used it on cars.. also works fantastic..

to clean off all the rubber from the drag strip.. just peel it out and respray...

 

Amen to that brother!

looking good on the build up so far!! looking forward to seeing your progress.