just need to make new control arms then im set!! didnt take long...alot of cutting though!!

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/1668/camaroj.jpg
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/608/camaro2i.jpg
http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/6039/p1030048g.jpg
http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/7017/p1080076.jpg

 

You went crazy with your cutting. I did WAY less to fit my 315s & when I go to 335s, I doubt I'll hafta cut any more than I already have.

As far as LCAs, all I did was run tubular UMIs with offset bushing mounts in the poly rod ends.

What bs are you running?

 

the rim is a 15x10 with 4 BS , i have lakewood square tube lower control arms, im making them offset about 1.5" im going to cut and modify them. ill reiforce them so they should still be pretty strong

 

Theres no way you only have 4 bs on that 15x10 and they tuck that good.

 

Either your axle is not 3rd gen width, or those wheels are 7-7.5" BS. I had that setup on 15x10 w/ 6.5" BS and it looked like this:

 

yes the wheels are 4" BS, i have an explorer 8.8 rear, i narrowed it 6" shorter than stock!

 

Whats your tire size on the 15x10 rim on your car ?

 

How hard was it to fab that up ?

 

it wasnt too difficult if you have a good idea of what your doin, i have a thread on it search 8.8i have lots of pics too!!

 

The tires in the pictures I have above are also 325/50/15's.

 

here are the control arms complete!

 

 

 

the cutting looks to be right where i cut mine to fit 335's. I have offset arms too, but mine are round tube with a rod end. Im using 8.5" of BS on a stock width rear, i think my wheels sits a little further in than your do.

looks good.

 

thanks, im happy that its tucked, i hate when tires stick out!!

 

I like what you've done with the control arms. I've been wanting to do my own that way... and make a jegster style shorty torque arm, except have the crossmember/crossbrace tie into the subframe connectors instead of just bolting into the transmission tunnel like theirs does.

 

i did make a short tq arm, i love it, it plants the rear end pretty hard, the doesnt squat on a hard launch.

 

You've beat me to all my own projects, stupid winter ha ha

Have any pics of the torque arm from underneath the car? Or of what you did for the forward mounting point? I'm curious how you put it together, I'm pretty sure I know how I'm going to do mine but I'd like to see yours Especially since you say you're happy with it

 

primetime91: here ya go...took those just for you!!

 

Thank you, you are the man Your's looks plenty strong. Looks very very close to what I have in mind for mine, up until the forward mounting point. Then I am going to do something similar to this:
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...nsmission.html (last pic on the page)

Gonna have it attach to a crossbrace between the subframe connectors though, instead of the transmission crossmember.

 

Thanks!! im changing my front mout similar to that as well, i want to get rid of that funky x-member i have!! Good luck on it though, let me know how it goes!!

 

that torque arm mount looks like it will bind like crazy when the suspension mover up and down. Not sure i like that.

 

I was thinking that too, but is it that different from running a poly bushing in the stock setup? A poly bushing in the clamshell mount on the transmission doesn't allow any deflection at all really, although I suppose the actual torque arm probably makes up for it and flexes more... Hmmm

 

i thought about that too when i made it, but the car is lowered 2.5 inches and the suspension is rock hard, it doesnt budge lol

 

Hi tylersb350,
How is your 8.8 holding out? I'm in the process of buying an 8.8 lsd this weekend to make fit my firebird. Any unexpected nasties i should watch out for?
Cheers

 

nice job! looks killer!

 

im gona try to tuck 325s too. my rear is a ford 8.8 but im running offset UMI double rod end LCAs. the rear is 1.5" longer than stock on each side so 3" total. i hope i dnt have to modify anything. i also made my own shorty adjustable TQ arm and it works great! car is a total animal.

to everyone running the MT streets how they workin? i want to get a set for the track and i dnt want to break my wallet. wat are your 60's and where did u buy from and how much?

 

+1, there is probably a good reason that the suspension feels rock solid in the back. If it works for you great, but that is some serious binding. You just turned a link into a mount.

 

Why the heck would that bind?

 

Not sure it would really be described as "binding". Basically the end of the tourqe arm - the part that is mounted in the sway bar bushing - actually twists in relation to the "crossmember" he has welded in. So what ever you call it when something is trying to twist like the end of the tourqe arm will do as the suspention goes up and down, thats what its doing. The shortend tourqe arm increases the amount the end twists, or maybe I should say "rotates". So actually, the mount should allow a higher degree of rotation then the stock mount - witch is placed on the transmission - does. Thats why aftermarket tourqe arms have mounts that rotate parallel to the axles of the rear end.

 

with some decent grease anyplace where the metal contacts that bushing I'd bet that you couldn't get enough of a "bind" in any position that teh TA will actually go through in it's normal range of motion that you couldn't overcome it by hand (if it wasn't attached to the rear axle).

In situations that you get actual bind with poly bushings, it usually involves the flat surfaces on the sides of control arm bushings.

 

Hello,
My name is Brian. Those control arms you fab'd look great. Would you consider selling a set?

 

They're actually modified Lakewood LCA's, he didn't fabricate them from scratch

 

have you considered a verticle plate to bridge that gap/curve? id feel safer if you did!

 

could you be a little more descriptive about this vertical brace? im always up for suggestions, thanks