I had a 700r4 in it previously and it did ok, but I am not even going to try that with this new incarnation. I have mocked up a 4L80 in the car right now. However it is going to require a new transmission mount and torque arm modifacation to make it work. I was worried there might be tranny tunnel complications but it fits like butta. Probably going to have to shorten the driveshaft too.

I actually got a pretty good deal on the crankshaft. I have a buddy who is a dealer for BTE (Bill Taylor Enterprises) and they sell Lunati, MSD, and a few other tranny parts. They had it sitting on the shelf for like a year and wanted to make a deal. In hindsight I might have cost myself some money making a good deal. The crank has a small block snout and that is the reason I have the large crank support on the front of the engine. However I may have needed this anyway with the F2. It will help keep the belt in alignment.

Here are some pics of the stainless header flanges and aluminum gaskets. I have a place here locally that cuts anything out of just about and metal with a laser. It's flippin sweet. Also it was free!! I bought merge collectors from stainless works and all my J bends from SDP. Don't have pics of that stuff yet or the AFCO radiator. I'll post those when I get some.

 

Impressive build. I always like to see people push the limits with well built thirdgens.
Good job.
Kory

 

wow crazy build looks sweet

 

Awsome im in the middle of just about the same, but im using 76mm twins anyway who's K-member did you use, been looking at Spohns and BMR but would like to know the thoughts of people who have used either or. Thanks Chris

 

looks like a racecraft k-member and spindles.

 

All Racecraft stuff up front. I like their stuff a little better than BMR. I have used some BMR stuff in the past but they seem a little more mass marketing to me. I have their subframes in my car but all of it comes in either hammer tone or red. I like black simple utilitarian styling a little better. I also have Racecraft control arms in the rear. They offer an offset bushing so you get a little more clearance for the rear tire. Thanks again to everyone for checking it out.

 

dayum what a sick car u got 1 question how much dynamat did u used i going to do mine i want to know how much should i buy

 

Thanks for the compliment. As for the dynamat I used 3 bulk packs and I got it of ebay. That is the place to get the best price by far. I offered the seller at the time a lesser price because I was buying 3 and he saved me overall on the price and shipping. This stuff really makes a huge difference in relation to anything that causes resonance i/e drive train heat and vibration as well as shutting the doors and general rattles from hitting bumps etc. You will also need a roller and a heat gun to make sure the dynamat contacts the car properly. This is even more important if you are applying dynamat in a cold climate. Also beware that once you cut or trim it to fit the edge becomes like a razor. My finger tips got shredded. You don't even realize you cut yourself until you notice you are bleeding. Lastly, you need to know that this stuff once applied is NEVER going to come off without basically burning it off. Once it sets and gets hot from a drive or a hot summer forget it. It's there to stay. Hope this helps, I will include a link to the bulk packs I am referring to. Thanks!
http://cgi.ebay.com/10455-DYNAMAT-Bu...93807493882091

 

Why didn't you just use lizardskin™? It's a spray on sound detonating and heat shield material. It comes in a 5 gallon bucket. They advertise it all the time on power block on spike tv sunday mornings.

 

Hind sight is always 20/20. I have a buddy building a 3rd gen and he is planning on using that product. I think I saw Troy Trepanier use it on a car too. Deff a good product but I am where I am with my car. Thanks

 

I'm subscribing to this. All I feel like I can do is sit from the side lines and watch my dreams be made into reality by others.. But keep up the good work man! wish I had your skills and money to accomplish what i want.

 

thanks for the info i thought i just need 1 bulk pack hhaha

 

Skills, dreams, and money are all born of expectation and dreams. It's been a long time coming and still money dictates the speed at which I can realize my own ideas and goals. It's all about the journey and that will about do it for my deep thought of the day

 

I have racecraft stuff up front on my car too.... Have you noticed that the springs touch the spring openings? That has caused alignment problems as well as some noise when turning the wheel for me. Are you supposed to trim the spring opening or have I just installed the thing wrong? My install pic looks the same as yours....

 

I'm excited to see that someone else has had this problem. I am planning on having them trimmed when the fab guy does the headers and a few other things that need attention. I had the same noise and it also made a mess of the coating on the first coils I had on it. Thanks for asking.

 

Do you think that the plates the struts fasten to are supposed to go in upside down, or are there spacers between the plate and the top of the coil over kit that I missed?

 

If you are referring to the cone shaped spacers I do not think that they are supposed to go up side down. Maybe take a picture of what you are referring to. I really believe that the openings are to small for the coil to travel through. I have seen some pictures of race cars that have the openings clearanced for the coils. I will call Mark at Racecraft today and talk with him about it.

 

What I received was (body side) a black plate which bolts to the strut towers, a zinc coated plate with 4 studs on it that bolts to the black plate. It can be offset either toward the center of the car or the outside of the car. I belive if you flipped this plate upside down and attached it from inside the strut tower instead of the engine bay that it would push the coilover assembly down and gain more clearance from the spring.

The only other way (without cutting up the strut tower which I honestly don't really mind doing) is to put spacers on the threaded stud on top of the strut to go between the top of the coilover assembly and the zinc coated plate.

 

Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Murphy, TX
Posts: 91

Classifieds Rating: (0)


Re: 1,000+ hp 1LE F2 build
What I received was (body side) a black plate which bolts to the strut towers, a zinc coated plate with 4 studs on it that bolts to the black plate. It can be offset either toward the center of the car or the outside of the car. I belive if you flipped this plate upside down and attached it from inside the strut tower instead of the engine bay that it would push the coilover assembly down and gain more clearance from the spring.

The only other way (without cutting up the strut tower which I honestly don't really mind doing) is to put spacers on the threaded stud on top of the strut to go between the top of the coilover assembly and the zinc coated plate.

You may be right about flipping the zinc coated plate around. Are you about to do try this If so let me know, it would be a better option for sure.

 

Keep up the good work looks good . I have a similar combo myself and it is very fun to drive around !! 89 Trans am 400 ci F2

 

Vader T/A?? I think I have seen this car before. Larry at ASSC told me about that support bar for the top of the bower that attaches to the strut tower. What heads on your combo? Thanks for the pic to!! Stock hood right??

 

Yes sir , The heads are AFR 227s . The support bar I bought from Jakes Performance and it allows you to pre load the blower upwards so when you get on the throttle and the belt wants to pull the blower down and run the belt off the end of the cog it cant. I am running the stock hood . It was alot of fabrication too make it fit but it is under the stock hood. Your motor should run good as I am in the process of dynoing and trying different things on mine but have put down 1420 hp at 7000 rpm so far with power still climbing. Should be able to hit 1500 without much problem. You will have plenty of power that is for sure !!!


Here is a picture of the car with the stock hood. Are you going to keep the stock hood ? I saw that nice hogan intake and was wondering if that was to keep the stock hood . That intake is a work of art !!

 

Is that rwhp?? If so I am pumped!! Going to try to use the Jap Hood as they call it on here. I already got my rod from Jakes.

 

No that is fwhp . At 1400 hp the heads start to become a restriction and to keep the engine under the stock hood I cant run a 18 or 15 degree head so that is what I am limited to. 1500 hp is really leaning on this combo and safe is 1400 hp .I would assume that the car has 1200 rwhp leaning on it using the 20% rule for drivetrain loss .

 

you should have no problem putting that at the flywheel.. i've saw many guys put those kinda numbers with smaller turbo setups.. should be a cake walk

 

Ok, I was going to say... wow!! I am not sure how much of a diff the AFR235's are going to make over your setup. I'm sure it will be negligible. What is your CID? I'm trying to get in the 8's on a 345 18 35 drag radial. What kind of et's are you running Vader?

 

I am running 400 ci . The track last year was a bit of a disaster . I rushed all summer to get the car done and made it to the track by late september . Well I had 1/2 studs in my axles and I guess I must have overlooked them but about 30 ft out on the first pass in the car It sheared off all the studs on the drivers side and bent all of the studs on the passenger side. Destroyed my rims my tires my brakes . But thankfully the wheel did not cause any body damage so I am in the process of fixing all the broken parts this winter and upgrading to 5/8 studs and will give it a go in the spring . Hopefully I have better results LOL !!

 

Great HP numbers ! .I'm building a similar combination and was wondeing what fuel was used to get those #s and what headers are you running with.I also delt with Larry and Jim Summers when Jim worked for ASSC.

 

You are going to need a 1 7/8 primary at least. I am going 1 7/8 to 2 steeped headers. Having them made though. You can get them from Ed Quay for like 700 out of steel but I wanted stainless and can have them made for the same price as they wanted. I personally would like a custom set. I am not sure what ogie used for headers. I think stainless works makes a set of straight 1 7/8 headers for a gen 1 small block third gen now. Hope this helped.

 

I bounced back and forth on the headers and wether to use the Ed quays or the Lemons . The Ed quays are a bit cheaper but was told that they require some finish welding to make them fit just right . The lemons were more money but from what I understood a direct bolt in . I did not want to have to pay for modifying the ed quays so I went with the lemons headers. I talked with Jim Summers on the tube size and he suggested the 2 inch primary stepped to 2 1/8 with a 4" collector. Granted while dynoing my engine I could not use my lemons headers on the dyno and the only spread port headers that they had for the dyno were 1 7/8 primarys with a 3.5" collector so that is what I used and my power #s are with the smaller headers . I am using the C-16 fuel and pushing 27 psi of boost through my A/w intercooler . I and my builder feel that the engine could make between 1200 & 1300 hp on pump gas with my intercooler at around 20 psi of boost. But I did not opt for trying to tune for that because Illinois has a law that you go 30 mph over the limit you go directly to jail . I guess I will drive like an old lady on the street and if i cruise around with pump gas I will not have a choice so that should keep me out of jail .

 

Thanks for the quick reply guys. Very helpfull.Will probably have more questions as the build moves on.

 

nice

 

Awesome build! I Was considering doing a procharger build myself, but deicded to stick NA for now, question, were you able to use any of the old front drives, waterpump, march brackets etc.... If not think you might be interested in selling?

 

Not going to be using any of it. I sold it all with the old motor.

 

Very nice build! I dont know if I missed it or not but what are you using for engine management?

 

BS3 for the the EFI. They seem to be the industry leader. Also Larry at ASSC where I got the blower is fluent in the programming language so he has and will be a great resource. Thanks for the kind words too!

 

gonna be bad to the bone, bro!

 

One of these years

 

You are welcome! Do'nt get discouraged. You are a lot further along than I am on my Twin-Turbo T/A build! How is BS3 when it comes to the map sensor? Will it allow the use of a 3-bar? Kind of curious as I dont really know a lot about BS3 (I was planning to use ACCEL's DFI thruster as it will allow a 3-bar to be used and will run injectors in sequential-fire.)
Thank you!

 

BS3 will allow sequential injection but you have to run a crank trigger for that I believe. I plan on doing this. It will also interface with a Racepack dash, which I am going to be using. Also it will control my shift points on the 4L80 trans that I am using. There are a lot of good EFI controllers out there but the BS3 is the one I and the people around me have the most experience and luck with. Good luck with your build as well!

 

Two thumbs up for a good build. Have you given any thought to converting to an LS1 ecm? EFI Connection sells the kit for about $1600.00. But I don't know if it cost more or less.

 

Think 'Pre-paid' bail bonds. Best money I ever spent on performance. Love your build.

 

You can use a 3 bar map sensor with the BS3 and you dont have to run a crank trigger to get seqeuntial . MSD sells a dual sync distributor that allows you to use all of the functions of the BS3 without the use of a crank trigger . With the use of the cam sync and crank sync along with a phaseable rotor you can eliminate the crank trigger . MSD 2345 is the distributor if I remember correctly.

 

My engine is a gen 1 style V8. I am not sure that I will be able to use a LSX computer for that. Also there is no comparison in the tuning capability of a BS3 and a factory style ECM IMO. Thanks for checking it out!

 

Looking to sell the blower, belt, cogs, blow off valve, crank support, etc. Email me at Scottgentry28@gmail.com or call or text to 936-672-1816. Going twin turbos

 

Changing the game up some. Blower sold... onward and upward. The car is in a forward motion again!! I'll post pics as progress is made. Happy New Year!!

 

More Pics!

 

Is that just a mock up, or are you angling the turbo's that way...?

 

In one of these pics you can see that brackets have been fabbed to support the turbos on the frame. The stainless headers would crack trying to support the weight of the turbos, especially when heat soaked. More to come. Ordering the cooler after the first, and meanwhile the 4L80 cross member is being built along with mandrel stainless exhaust. I'll keep em coming as I take them.

 

We did it that way to create more room for the turbo exhaust. With the size of the turbos and room we have to work with it allows for a better radius on the exhaust side and better aesthetics for the whole install...IMO of course...

Thanks