Look close at the flip-down High beam cut off piece. My projectors have the same thing. The little shield has a step in it, to shield the oncoming drivers a bit more & let the light extend just a bit further out on yours side of the road.

 

didnt notice that, but i'll check. they looked smooth to me.

 

You didnt know that? I guess you didnt read about that when you bought them...

 

reading is for pansies

 

I suppose then that it is a good thing they default the ordering page to North America

 

that is fn awesome...... im comin to jerrsey to steal them off your bird....

 

That Really looks Great!

 

you sir have found a way to take a bird and make it go from the look that its completely dumbfounded by its surrounding to an aggressive, get out of my way look. great job

 

Incredible work. I think this will inspire a lot of front end fab to come!

 

Why would you do this!!!!!!! I cant belive it!!!! Im so pissed cause now i have to copy your awsome idea and do it to my car!!!!!

 

Neat idea

 

Finished the up/down stops tonight, didnt take nearly as much time as i though they would.



up stop you can kinda see, its just a extra piece of 3/16 aluminum bolted to the hinge mount and the motor arm strikes it and stops. Nice and simple

Down stop is bolted to one of the mounting stubs for the impact bar, just a simple aluminum bracket and a bolt for adjustability. Simple is good

And, drum roll please.... a video. Hopefully this works, haven't tried to link one of these yet...

http://s153.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=P1000170.mp4

i have the lights out so i coudl adjust the stops.

 

Can you take some detailed photos of the brackets you made, and how the whole thing looks out of the car. Im really liking this set up. Also where did you get the projection lenses?

 

next time i take the frames out, i'll get some more pics of them. Not interested in making plans, so dont ask. ( would be impossible and take forever)

projectors came from
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/ind...3fjtrd8pi33qqb

they are the H1 mini's

 

it looks like a mad chicken off angry birds or something lol, but really i like it and they come up fast!!

 

You are SO making me a set of those, or at the very least telling me your purchased parts list. Interested to see the shrouds next, maybe we can make something from vacuum molds

Glad we got the headlight door module problem solved did it fail again after we spoke?

 

It looks so angry!

 

About the headlights what options did you get with those lences? And what made you chose the H1 mini's?

 

I love the video, the doors move a lot faster than I thought they would. I almost laughed when I heard the POP of them closing.

incredible job man

 

Ok... that is awesome. Seeing them working, and both sides together really sold it. I love it!!!!

Fantastic job man. I have to say. Of all of the mods that people make to our flip up headlights, you have pulled one of, if not the best mod Ive ever seen. The half up mod or lazy eye mod is ok...but its nothing like this. This totally changes things!

Awesome!

J.

 

Pretty sure size was the most important factor in the decision. I have the D2S's and these are a little smaller (so he tells me)

 

Thanks for the words guys, i appreciate it.

so far they are still kicking. Not sure what happened there.

My only concern at this point is with the motors. They dont have to lift the doors far, and thats the problem. the lift arm moves less than 90 degrees (70 maybe) and with stock doors its almost 180. So im wondering if this will cause them to fail sooner or not. They seem plenty strong to do the job, but i would hate to have to rebuild the motors often. Only way to "fix" this would be to extend the lift linkage, but that puts it in the way of the headlight, so i guess im stuck with it.

As for the bezels and lenses, i have headlights from a 96? Dodge intrepid that im cutting to fit the front, they seem like they will work, and i plan to use Perceys hyper-fiber composite material for the shroud and bezel. Going to be experimenting with the stuff later tonight, see how it works.

 

FWIW, the only difference that makes the H1's seem like the better choice is the different plugs for the bulb. The H1's just have wire leads with weatherpacks, while the D2s you have use a rather large plug. I think both will work, but the H1 looks like its a little more versatile.

the full sized projectors would not have a prayer of fitting. You would have to open the doors more to fit them, but you would not be able to close the doors because the lights would hit the steel impact bar. So without cutting up the impact bar, they would not work. As it is, its close.

 

And after 5 minutes, i realized this stuff was a waste of money. What worthless garbage... time to think up "Plan B", which will most likely involve cardboard and regular fiberglass...

 

i didnt understand your idea behind the intrepid lights, what exactly are you gonna do with those??

 

I dont think you'll have any problems with the motors. There are no internal stops. If you give them 12v, they should just turn and turn and turn. Reverse the polarity, and they reverse direction. But they should just kind of spin indefinately.

The fact that its hitting an internal stop at 90* vs. 180* shouldnt matter at all. The motors dont care where they stop. As long as you arent putting them up and down super fast trying to make the lights flap, you should be ok haha.

Im interested to see how you finish these off. Thats going to be the fun part. Making everything fit and look good.

Im sad to hear that full sized projectors wouldnt fit. I have a set of FX-35 projectors that Ive been trying to fit into my flip ups for a while now. I kind of stopped messing with them, but would like to eventually work on it some more. I guess if I had to I could sell them and pick up H1's... Just like working with what I have. haha.

J.

 

Ive never seen anybody do there's like Im in the process of doing them..

 

ive always pictured that and then make headlight housing in the open area, with tinted lenses so it doesnt look like it sticks out

 

exactly what Im going to do.. cars painted now..

 

seen that before, but without the old doors smoothed over. I think they used older 90's Bonneville/GTP? lights.

 

I made a frame with that 1/8"x1/2 steel and then some sheet metal..

 

Those do look good man, you weren't lying when you said they were a lot of work though!

I'd offer to TIG them up for you, but I don't think you could trust me with shipping them back safely LOL

Probably best to just find someone local to do it anyway

 

or ship them back at all

I have a friend locally who can tig them for me, i just dont like asking him for favors since he never charges me for anything and i feel bad.

But... i did pick up a used miller arc/tig machine from another friend, along with a crap ton of parts and tungsten, so i seem to be set for life in that department. I need a add-on box to get the foot pedal and hi frequency, but once i find the garage (its a freaking disaster because of this project), im going to dabble with it and see if i can make it work, maybe i can weld these myself, who knows.


I have been working on the bezels, with relative success. Once i get the passengerside one more finished and the driverside one sanded, i'll get the pics together. Ended up going with the fail-safe fiberglass, cardboard, wawa coffee cups and blue painters tape. The driverside is almost finished in rough form and so far, its looking good.

Should have something to post this weekend?

 

Decepticons, assemble!!!

Looks awesome as can be, though!!

 

It's nice to see more 'birds getting retrofitted with projectors.



The Retrofit Source Mini D2S Bi-Xenon projectors. 5000K 55W. Normal pop up action.

Sorry for hyjacking!! Love seeing something new as well!

 

this is the coolest most unique mod ive seen on a thirdgen, absolutely LOVE IT! how much in all did this cost and roughly how much time....i was on the market for some hid conversion until I saw this! I WANT IT!!!

 

Awe come on, no hard feelings about that right?

Just curious here, what Miller did you get? And have you ever tried TIG before?

There's a huge difference between welding with an old-school tig welder, stuck at 60hz frequency on a sine wave, and pretty much any of the newer welders with a squarewave & frequency more around 100-120hz, plus features like balance control. And aluminum would be incredibly frustrating to learn on without a foot pedal

Once you get it figured out though, you'll love TIG It's the shiz. I can give you some tips if you'd like, when you get to that point. No reason you can't do these yourself

 

na, just messing with you

Its an older machine, it will do AC/DC and low frequency, but not a lot of adjustment. I would need a add on box to have much of a chance at the aluminum, but for the time being, i can learn on steel with it. Besides, the cost was worth the tungsten, let alone the rest of the tig parts. WOnt have much time to mess with it until i get this project more wraped up and wire a new outlet for the welder. Another friend is supposedly getting a tig soon, and a better machine, so i can use that one....

the projector setup was about 300 bux, aluminum, bolts, bushings ect, about 100? Doesnt include tools and such. Not terribly expensive, but i have over 100 hours easy into the project, not including much of the time lost on plan A, B, C, D, E, and F for the bezles...

 

for the sake of information, what wiring harness did you use for your setup and did you have any issues when using your fog lights? For whatever reason, when i turn the fog lights off, i loose the "lowbeam" of the projector. High still works though?

maybe i just messed up something.... been fighting a few gremlins

 

Busy this weekend? Wanna help me go pick that up over the weekend? Its a syncrowave 250 BTW

Not sure if it is relevant but I remember GM used the fog light to ground out one of the circuits for the headlights, but I dont remember which one.

 

The headlights should be totally independent of the fog lights. Fog lights on or off has zero effect on my Hi/Low beams. You mis-wire something?

 

I got it, the fog light relay is grounded through the HI beam filament.

AFAIK //<86TA>\\ got a relay harness with the kit, he didnt have to actually wire anything

 

yeah, no miswiring on my part, i do it (very well) for a living.

i have a feeling it may be an issue with the headlight switch. When i bought the car, i would turn on the running/parking lights/fogs, without the headlight doors opening, about a year ago, the headlight doors started oppening when i turned the running/parking lights/fogs on, but the headlights themselves would no be on until i turned the switch for them on.

I have a feeling the switch has gone bad and grounded/shorted some of its connections internally and causing all these little issues.

There are a few more little quirks to the headlights that make me believe this is the case.

I have a new switch, and little to do tonight, so i may swap the switch out and see what happens.

just make the call and im there!

 

Sorry I haven't gotten back quicker. My car is an '82 and doesn't have fogs. All I used was the low beam relay harness from DDM Tuning (got the wiring and ballasts from them and the bulbs from TRS) and then made a jumper at the hi/low beam switch under the dash on the column from low to high (so that the low side still has power when high beams are on). Works perfect.

But as far as the fog wiring goes, all the vehicles I've ever driven, the fogs turn off when the high beams come on. FWIW, you don't really need fogs with projector HID's. There is absolutely zero glare from the lights even in heavy fog. I've driven many miles thru fog with mine and never had any problem with glare. Most of the time high beam doesn't glare too much.

You're prolly like me tho and want everything to work like it's supposed to haha all I can say about getting the fogs and headlights working like they're supposed to is get on alldatadiy.com. It's everything from the GM shop manual put online pretty much.

 

I made this little mspaint diagram for you guys on the jumper. That's basically how the plug for the dimmer switch looks. I may have the high and low side backwards but you get the point. Check with a volt meter or test light before you jump any connection because I'm not responsible.

 

All I did to keep my fogs on with the High Beams was a grounding the factory relay to be grounded 24/7. All the factory did was to put a relay in that turned off the fogs when the High Beams were activated. Took me maybe 5 min under the hood by cutting one factory wire, putting a ground loop on it & slipping the ground loop under the factory mounting screw for the relay. Cut, crimp, pull screw, put loop in place, reinstall screw. Done.

 

I wish I could draw that good lol
I figured it was something that simple. My 'bird doesn't have fogs and I always wanted them; just couldn't figure out how to make them look factory on an '82. The projector HID's just completely overpower fogs anyway so I haven't worried about them since. Haha.

 

thanks for the info guys, but im not looking to have the fogs on with the high beams. Im trying to do this all without cutting the factory wiring (except the bulb pigtails), so i can swap back and forth to the stock setup if needed. The plan is to splice 3 pin weather pack connectors onto the factory bulb pigtails so i can just plug the factory or projector setup into the body harness when i swap back and forth. It would also allow me to lengthen the factory wiring to the stock flip ups since they are a tad on the short side and a bit difficult to unplug.

Hoping to have both the bezels mostly finished (driver side is really close), minus lenses, this weekend, and get the headlight switch changed and see if thats been the cause of the gremlins in the headlight setup over the past year or so.

 

NICE! waiting for the finished project... and if i understand correctly you are not adding any weight?

 

where did you get all the building materials from?