Did some reading around on here about deleting the vapor canister and the biggest gripe people seemed to have was leaving the line open for the fuel to evaporate and stink up their garage.

Finding a vented gas cap seemed rather difficult and on top of that I refuse to run a non-locking gas cap which meant I was pretty much out of luck. To add insult to injury, Several people have claimed that "vented" gas caps are actually only vented inward. In other words, they allow air INTO the tank but don't allow it to escape and I could not confirm this to be right or wrong.

My solution was simple. I removed all the vacuum tubing, capped the throttlebody, cut the harness and pigtail for the canister purge off and yanked the canister out. I then used a PCV breather attached to the vapor canister pressure operated check valve to cap the line coming from the fuel tank. The filter keeps any debris out of the line and the valve will remained closed until the in tank pressure exceeds 2psi IE car in motion and gas being sloshed around in the tank or gasoline having any form of heat applied to it IE exhaust. Also note that to achieve the 2PSI rating you have to close the additional vacuum nipple at the top of the check valve. I roughed up the inside with a drill bit and filled it with JB weld.

I did try driving around for a bit with the line open and you can detect a subtle gasoline smell if you stop and open the hood but not once did I ever smell it entering the cabin. Now I will have the perfect spot to route a CAI or relocate the battery if it needs to be routed to the other side.

And yes, I am aware that I now need to clean the surrounding area for where my vapor canister was located.

 

Can't you just run the tube into the intake via a screw in port?

 

Why was it so important to you to delete the canister? I am not a tree hugger or anything, but it seems like unnecessary pollution.

 

You mean the tube on the check valve or the line coming from the tank itself?

 

I'm not even going down this road with you. You do what you want to your car and I'll do what I want to mine thanks.

 

Well, was thinking more or less how NO2 is setup on wet systems. The no2/fuel fitting is usually screwed into the intake housing before the throttlebody. Figured this might work the same way, and might be able to conceal it so it's not so noticeable.

But the EVAP line is just a small rubber hose, about the size of the standard vacuum line under the hood, right?

 

The way the factory setup works is that one of the hard body lines coming from the fuel tank exits in the engine bay. This body line then connects to the vapor canister with the pressure valve in between the two. Then the vapor canister goes to a port on the throttlebody.

I suppose I could have done it like this vs venting it to the atmosphere, but I wanted the most simplistic approach possible. Also, keep in mind that the way the check valve operates, that third little fitting that I closed off is hooked to a vacuum source. This makes the check valve extremely difficult to open when vacuum is applied and this is so at low load and idle conditions you aren't having a constant vacuum applied to your gas tank.

 

I'm of the mind of not wanting to pollute if I don't have to, but the thing is in the way and I haven't found a good place to put it.

Some correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't older cars just have a vent tube that was upen under the car? Why hasn't anyone tried that?

 

Vent tube under the car. Yes, you could do it like that. In fact, that's where the tube that exits in the engine bay comes from. Get under the car and you'll notice the tube coming out of the tank then a piece of rubber hose joining it to the body hardlines (Like all the lines coming from the tank actually). I could have located the "device" i made there, but I'm trying the engine bay first for convenience if it ever needs to be tinkered with. If I start noticing the smell of fumes inside the car, It's getting relocated to underneath at the tank.

And the whole purpose of the check valve was to keep the tank sealed until it began building pressure and needed to be released. As long as there is under 2-3psi inside the tank, the valve will remained closed and will not allow vapors to vent to the atmosphere. Once pressure begins to build IE car in motion or heat from exhaust (It does happen but it takes a considerable amount of time for pressure to build while the car is not moving), the valve will open allowing it to release.

 

I did something similar a number of years ago when I swapped to the HSR on my old 305. However, I just went to the autoparts store and found carb fuel filter the same size as the line coming from the tank. No valve, no 2psi requirement, nothing fancy. It never stunk of gas and I never had an issue. When I swapped to the LSx I yanked the hardline down the car and capped the fitting back at the tank. Still never had an issue.

Oh and side note, you can get locking gas caps that are vented. And locking gas caps are no deterrent. It would take someone less than a few seconds to pop them off.

 

Yeah they can be taken off for someone who knows what they're doing. Your average thug however who just wants to put sugar in your gas tank would probably go hit another car instead.

 

Actually, I think it'd just deter kids. Your average thug has probably been around enough to know that just prying up on the grip separates the two halves. It comes apart with very minimal effort. You could do it with a pocket knife but I like to use an open end/box wrench. (I have lots of people that come into my work who have lost their keys). Locking gas caps are generally just to keep you feeling safe, like so many other products out there, not really to stop someone who wants to get in. Sorry.