On the to do list for the 87 Iroc; High beam conversions for possibly the brightest high beams period. Now, before I get a bunch of ridicule, I understand the 'restrictions' regarding high beams and state law concerning the use.

My plan is to gut a pair of 4x6 diamond cuts housings like these, and mount a pair of 100w high output LEDs like these. Now with the integration of the 100w leds, I will actually be running the hi/lo combo H4 HID system on the inside lamps and will be running the 100w LEDs on a separate switch.

Each one of these 100w LEDs can push between 9000-9500 lumens each compared to the stock high beam output of 1500 lumens and HID high output of about 4000-5000 lumens.

Now I don't plan on being those d*cks that like to blind people with their lighting system on the highways, my setup will be strictly for rural/country areas only (people typically don't use their highs in the city).

I'm going to also run 10-20w LEDs in my fog lamps with the glass lens reflector to pull the 160* beams down to 60-80*. The 100w LEDs will also have the glass 'focus' lens to pull the spread from 160* to 90*.

If any of you guys are interested, I will post schematics, pics and setup costs on here. Just let me know.

nice!

sweet im interested



just dont be like the tools with the cruddy ebay HID's that run their headlights on 24/7/365 to show how cool they are with $40 HIDs

Yeah definitely can't stand those guys, sad thing is that some of those 'custom auto' shops out there (including a few around here) are the ones doing it. If only it was legal to take a baseball bat to their lights...

Build Parts List:

High Beam Conversion
1 x 4"x6" Chrome Square Lenses - $21.98 - eBay
2 x 100w LED, Cool White 5500-6000k - ($27.60 ea) - $55.20 - eBay
2 x DC to DC Step Up Converter Board - ($8.99 ea) - $17.98 - eBay
2 x Aluminum Heat Sinks - ($3.10 ea) - $6.20 - eBay
2 x 44mm Lens Focus Reflector - ($4.25 ea) - $8.50 - eBay
1 x Round Rocker Switch - $3.36 -eBay

Total Cost (not including wire, looming, clips or fuses)
$113.22 (price includes shipping for applicable items)

I might attempt to hunt down a taller heat sink for this build to help dissipate the heat emitted from the LEDs. According to a couple websites out there, 100w LEDs w/o an attached heat sink can reach temps upward of 185* C (or 350* F). I might even install some small air ducting towards the heat sinks to keep everything cool(er). I will have to temp out the LEDs under full load once they get here; I'll post those 'accurate' figures on here as well.

I'm in to see the finished pic's on this. The high beams on mine are terrible!

Im in

Interesting. Sub'd. Good luck.

Might wanna drop the ks down to 45k-55k, or 50k to 55k to actually get a whiter white, less blue tinting. Blue looks neat but not actually as bright. Not that 55-60 will give you much blue though. Just something to think about that I noticed when I researched the k ratings.

Yeah we must see more pics use a Image hosting site like photo bucket make them easier to see!!!!!!! The trucker in me loves LED's

If only that was legal and also to be legal to ram people out of the left lane when the are not passing somone

Yeah, unfortunately I didn't think of that as much as I should have before I ordered them. I'm currently looking for something in the mid-range spectrum to purchase as well.

LED DIAGRAM-DRAFT.pdf



Starting to try and lay out the diagram for this set up, this is the first draft of the layout. It may change in the future, depending on install.

I will definitely upload build pics as well as result pics after everything comes in the mail from eBay.

That is the one thing that I absolutely loved about Germany...fahren Sie rechts. Automatic ticket if you got caught using the hammer lane for anything other than passing.

Hmm, I have 55w 8000 k Hid's in all four lenses. When I switch to Highs, It looks like the light stretches out for a mile. It's incredible.

They make a relay kit that allows you to run your fog lights and low and high beams at the same time. Yes all three, I have it on two of my 3rd gen cars and my old z71 hunting truck. It is about $20.00 and takes about 10 minutes to install.

And all of those lights put together might....just MIGHT be the same as ONE of these LED arrays.

Wish that I could show you guys a decent side by side comparison between the 100w LEDs and 55w HIDs, but unfortunately until they come in (via UPS from Germany) I can't. As soon as I get them, I will be taking the lights and a camera out at night so that you can see the aftermath.

subscribed

I have an obsession with lights, I'm really interested in this.

You may be like me, got some trucker in ya

Pfft. Lighting amateur.

Just wait, I may not have done anything yet, but over this winter I'll be doing an FX-R retrofit into a pair of Golf Rallye or Corrado housing... For the Camaro. After that I'll be converting my tail lights with LED's.

Doing the Spaghetti thing or your own design? Let me know when you start building them, I've done a few LED tailights/marker light setups for friends.

maybe these are a little different than ones i was messing with like 18 months ago, but I had some 20w led's and they would "burn out" or burn up if they got over like 115 degrees. I had a nice beam pattern using 2 of them as a low beam and another for high beam all in one housing and lens. I just lost interest in them since it would've taken some kind of fan and heat sink to keep them from burning out, and even then 115 degrees is very low for a failure temperature.

Not saying that, just saying that if he is wanting more there is another way to make his new set-up even more flexible with more light.

[Oh really? I definitely will. I will be doing my own design. I will be doing a perimeter ring around the entire housing for the running lights (similar to Audi's new tail lights), with the interior as the brake light. It will also utilize the wrap around section. I want to try and make the turn signal function sequential as well.

Warm white 3000-3500K LEDs, they look almost identical to good quality regular head lights.
I use this color range for everything I can where I need a white LED.

Have you been able to test those 100w LED on heat sinks yet?

Actually, I think the brightest high beams ever were Jennifer Aniston, season 4 of 'Friends'...

Whatever happend with this thread? Those cheapo chinese LEDs tend to burn out prematurely.Excess heat is the cause, most times.

I used "G4 LED replacement arrays" in my reverse light and dome lights on my suburban.
With out a heat sink they get well over 100'F reading the back of the array with an infered temperature scanner.
Those G4 arrays are only rated for 1w, I tested them running at 1.4w.
Putting a big old gob of RTV on the back pins and sticking them to a much larger object seems to provide plenty of cooling.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...961&highlight=

Those 100w LED chips would put off so much heat they would need to be encapsulated in epoxy or possibly be incased in a liquid or in a Helium gas filled chamber to disapate heat.
I bought some more modest sized 10 and 25 watt LED chips and will try them out.
Running these high power LED chips at the lowest voltage possible should help them last longer too.

I was pondering the thought "how would I epoxy a high powered LED chip onto a backing" for use in a semi sealed projector head lamp.
How to do it will be easy, couldnt put my finger on what the to use for encapsulation of the LED chip.
The epoxy would have to be able to take some heat, be friendly to light have high clarity and then I realized I had already bought the perfect chemical for use on another project.
Ultra clear silicon based epoxy for solar panel encapsulation.
Solar panel epoxy is heat resistant, very clear, not broken down by UV or regular light and it has light friendly properties.

I took a lowly 10 watt LED chip and powered it up with my LiFePO4 starting battery and it went from room temperature to too hot to touch after about a 3 second test.
It will take a lot of aluminum and solar panel epoxy to sink all that heat away.
Had I tried to do an extended test, the LED would have cooked it self.

A 100w LED would almost instantly cook its self.

Maybe your over thinking this.Wonder if a computer fan would provide enough cooling, along with a heat sink.

That wont be known for another few weeks.

Going to do the alpha and beta test.

Alpha test will consist of connecting the LED to a strip of scrap aluminum to make a handle/heat sink and taking it outside at night and lighting up stuff.
Pretty simple.

The beta test will be to build up the LED puck. Install the LED chip with artic silver heat sink pasted on an aluminum square, encased with up to 3/8'' of solar panel epoxy and a heat sink on the back. Then put that puck behind a 4656 projector light.
Then power it up for hours on end and see how hot it gets.

I got the voltage/heat issue figured out.
My LiFePO4 batteries sitting at 13.6v put out way too much power to run these 10w LED chips straight off the battery.

Turns out they 10w LED chips like about 10.5 volts. My voltage regulators wouldn't put out less than 12.4v.

I stacked NiMH battereis to get the correct voltage. With 10.5v the LED chips almost don't need a heat sink.

Back yard testing the LED chip and a projector lense houseing with gator clips shows good potential.

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sorry, having a little trouble with the TGO app.

if a mod sees this, feel free to delete my posts.




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I actually used Hi-Temp RTV on the backside of the LEDs for my third brake light (consisting now of 5 (1) Watt leds [as well as on the back of a pair of 10 watt LEDs] and haven't had any issues yet. Not saying it's the best solution, but thus far it hasn't been bad.

I used RTV a lot anytime I use these LEDs.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...961&highlight=

I wouldn't bother with those LEDs. There is a reason they are so cheap. I would go for a reputable brand like Cree. Also, a heatsink is just not going to be enough unless it's in the dead-of-cold winter. You would need something like a CPU water block to take heat away from it and to a radiator down in the wheel well where it gets airflow, and to also make the surface area larger. Your choice of housings is also going to disappoint you. They're meant for something with a filament in a specific location. Even with a normal bulb, they're cheap junk that hasn't been engineered to focus the light properly. You would need to make a projector setup from scratch. And such a high color temperature may seem like a good idea because the lumen numbers are higher, but in reality, the atmosphere doesn't react well to such light, and neither does the eye. Something around 4,000K is the most sensible choice.

I am looking into doing something similar, with Cree CXB3590 LEDs. My primary lights would be a normal bi-xenon HID setup, and I would have the LEDs for rural driving. I was thinking of mounting the LED directly to a water block with thermal adhesive. For the optics I may or may not use a reflector, but I will definitely have one of those HID-type lenses in the front.

I put LED head lights on my suburban.
Then I saw this and remembered, my 4 head light square body suburban and my Camaro use the same head lights.

First off you cant find many 4000k head lights. I 100% agree 4000k is ideal but you are not going to find them in head light application.
Actually I prefer 3500K. The difference between 3500 and 4000 is tamato tomato stuff.