i am planning on making my 91 camaro into a basic stripped drag car, fully removed interior, rhino line the whole interior, but i was wondering if anyone had removed the rear hump in the back hatch and flattned that out can this be done or better yet is it plausible?

Your gas tank is under there so unless you run another gas tank somewhere else? It isn't possible.

so if i take out the gas tank and run a fuel cell itd be rather easy?

Depends on how you want to define "easy". You will have to contend with the rear shock upper mounts which are roughly half way up the rear seats. Then there is the Panhard Bar which runs sideways just behind the gas tank (gonna run a 4-link?). And the rear coil spring seat is in that area, but that is something you'll hafta address as to where you want to cut & what can stay, after you look.

everyone keeps talking about a rear 4link i havent even seen any for a 3rd gen, cudnt i just cut out the rear sub frame and weld some thick tubing in there and do a bunch of trailing arm pan hard bar mods and a ford 9 inch eventually cuz i wanna run bout 12inch wide tires, and whats the max tire you can run on stock body no tubs or ne thing

just do a mini tub and you can fit 12" wide tires no problem.

crawl under the car.. look at all the stuff that mounts to the stuff you want to remove... figure out a strategy from there.
that "hump" holds not only the gas tank, but also the upper spring seats, shock mounts, and the panhard bar mount.. all that stuff is kinda important..

on my car, i keep thinkin i want to take the stock gas tank out, replace that silly "trunk" area at the back with a flat piece of steel that is at the same height as the "hump" you want to get rid of, and mount a 90's Caprice gas tank under there with the fuel filler behind the rear license plate where it should have been put in the first place.. it would really clean up the hatch area, gain 5 gallons of fuel capacity, and i wouldn't have to pull up to gas pumps from a certain direction.

whats a 12" inch tire end up being in width wise, do u think a 12" tire wud hold 428 rwhp and 425tq, and how can i possibly cut a ton of weight i wanna get around 2800 without a driver

Theres guys out there with double that power running a 10.5" tire.

ok u seem to be pretty smart bout this stuff, this if u cant tell is my first build, i no 425hp aint much but its a big jump from driving a stock s10 with 3.08 gears, and cud i run a 10.5 on stock rims, and what gears shud i run behind my 700r4 everyones telling me 4.88-5.13s ad how can i cut a bunch of weight

removing your interior to cut weight - then rhino lining is just adding the weight back in...

lol spray rhino lining a couple of ounces wont make a difference........ im cool cuz i add periods after my post... like you...

That rhino liner will be a lot heavier than you think, especially if you put enough on to form any real thickness. I would just pass on that idea all together.

As for the hump, you will not be able to get rid of it. With stock suspension or a 4 link or anything other than maybe a IRS setup, you will always end up with a decent sized hump back there.

For tires, if you do a pretty standard minitub you can squeeze some pretty big meats back there, more than you need really since like has been mentioned before people run stupid fast with 10.5 and even narrower tires, if you get the chassis setup right, they will provide plenty of traction

To figure out what gear you should run, you need to know where the motor makes its power and how high it will rev. You then need to know what size tire your going to run and match the rear gear so that your passing the finish line at where the motor is starting to drop off on power. About where you would be shifting at. Just know that if you set it up real close and then gain more power, you'll have to put different gears in again or go to a taller tire to get more mph out of it.

I, for example, shift at 6400. So I'm putting 4.30 gears in which will let me run up to 116 mph on a 26" tire. I dont ever see me running faster than that with my current setup. If I made drastic changes to the motor, I could put on a 28" tire and run up to 125 and still pass the traps at 6400 rpm.

We can all tell, it's very obvious,and everyone here is giving you the best advice they can to HELP you. Don't run your mouth when you have no idea what your talking about :finger:

Hump? What hump?

ok and i got another question that i asked in a different thread i want to swith my mid-length headers to long tubes. has anyone used this exact pair of headers http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/68460/10002/-1

I have. you have to trim a part of the drivers side a-arm (no big deal), and if your motor mounts are old they may rub the k-member

so a little bit of grinding and they will fit, what kind of personal experince did you have with these and how hard were they to put in? and are the actually long tubes for that cheap? sorry im asking so many questions just im tired of getting my hopes up to be let down and did you run that exact pair or some other one

I had the exact same ones. Yes they are long tubes, but they are only 1 5/8" primaries so they are on the smaller side. they have great ground clearance but it's hard to run the exhaust off of them and out of the transmission tunnel and maintaing good ground clearance although it can be done. They were very hard to put in since it was my first time doing headers. Now, I could do it in 2 hours or less. They have to be installed from the bottom

since i have nothing in the car to do with a/c no p/s no heater hoses none of that cud i lift the motor up some and slide them in or do you %100 have to do it from the bottom no matter what,

you may be able to do it from the top, I'm not sure on that. but without removing a ton of stuff there was no way I could do it. It's not bad from the bottom though

idk, iv heard a bunch of stuff bout these but nothing too bad, mainly just a little trim here and there, i think itd be bout impossible for me to do from under it, thankfully if i get these ill be able to do exhaust myself just slap some header mufflers on and go for now, do you know of anyway of taking the steering rod off temporarily, thats what stopped me from getting the hedmans i have now on it in about 10 minutes

Am I the only one that is questioning why he's cutting up a car that will end up with a 425hp engine?

I mean, what is the goal here, to race new v6 camaros?

A 10 bolt with an 8.5" tire, and a much bigger engine than proposed will run low 11s, high 10s all day in the 125mph range. Heck, I used to run 120mph on drag radials. The fox body guys around here run 245mm drag radials on street night and are all 10 second cars, full interior, etc.

It's his car and all, but I feel like unless he's putting a 9 second combo together we should try to guide him to success.

-- Joe

not trying to start an arguement but i see where you are coming from. BUT, i know this is what some would consider a low horsepower build, but what i am basically wanting to do is get my car fully ready for the next build so i can just drop the motor and go so to speak. which will be a 400ci+ small block all aluminium build, i cant just jump straight to a 600hp from driving a stock s10

That is a better explanation. Just keep in mind, the car will have to pass tech - specifically the cage.

-- Joe

iv decided to street race/grudge race it. i fear that there would be something i would do wrong that would make it not pass inspection at the track, i dont even know what guidelines have to be followed for bracket racing. could you lead me to somewhere that has regulations for it?

Well, depending on what local track you use and their sanctioning body, either IHRA or NHRA rulebook for starters. Generally speaking, 11.49 is the threshold in which things become serious. Cage, restraints, etc. Then 10.99 is the next breakdown.

Cage has to meet certain guidelines for number of attachment points, welding criteria, tube size and material, etc.

-- Joe

do you guys have any suggestions on a 700r4 t/c stall, mileages is not a worry as probably wont even drive the car 3 times a month, i was thinking 4000ish, my cam is a speedway solid lifter cam .501" lift both sides, 297/301 duration 112lsa i believe, i dont want there to be any hesitation on take off when building foot "boost" i already have 2 tranny coolers, the radiator one and an external one