scooter

iTrader: (11)

I know you're down under, but I made the same basic tubing straightener with some metal wheels for screen doors that I got from Home Depot or Lowes. I also spaced the rollers a little further apart, it works great on the stainless tubing I was buying and looks a lot better than trying to do it by "hand".

If your rollers don't work out maybe you can find something similar

LX_SS

I saw perhaps it was your post about it a while ago in another thread, however when i priced up the wheels here it worked out to may as well just buy the proper $250 unit, **** here is expensive for no reason, also the sizes we get the wheels in are generally much smaller than the 3/8" / 10mm.

So the printed wheels seem to work, so long as im careful it should be fine. I'm guessing if i have issues with the stainless lines for brakes i can make some more h/d plastic ones, however tho everything is good so fingers crossed.

Sad face tho i priced up a -6an to 11/16 IMCA fitting i need (part number KRC10125000) that i need for my hq steering box, since i cant get it in Australia. The postage from the US was a staggering $67 usd, for something not even the size of my thumb i almost had a heart attack.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Maybe I can help you with the shipping? If you want, send me a PM and I can see how much I could send it for

LX_SS

I'll send ya a pm if i don't have any luck, i found a supplier of the correct thread, but its inverted taper which i think is the same as the us imca fitting.

I'll give that a shot since its only $15.

Anyway promised pics of wheels, here is some quick snaps, they are all still in the boxes. Shots are of the rear 18 x 9

RRP is $4940aud, only reason i got them is they were more than 50% off.

Test fit is nice, They don't stick out the rear as much as my welds do currently. However just to be on the safe side, i will get the guards rolled.

propaintball96

Why is going to cost 750 dollars for power steering lines? What are you making them out of? That seems crazy!

1988CamaroSC

iTrader: (2)

awesome job !

LX_SS

5 meters of HP Black Braided Stainless Steel Teflon Hose 3/8" = $150
4 meters of LP Push Lock Hose 3/8" = $60
Power Steering Cooler 10 Row = $80
All -AN fittings = $325
Proper Hose Cutters = $65
Grand total for power steering = $680

So my $750 rough estimate was close, i was able to change out some fittings, use a different supplier etc... Don't forget i don't just run the power steering to steering box, i have a brake booster that requires power steering to be ran through it first before going to the steering rack. That alone adds more fittings, Y joiner for draining, and another 3m of hose.

You guys in the US have the -an fittings much much cheaper. Here they can cost upto $35 each, some in the US i have seen for $6 or so.

Exchange rate sucks for aussies and then once you add shipping it virtually kills it.

propaintball96

Man that sucks... I just did the same thing but no cooler and no brake booster lines. Two lines from rack to pump to box with all AN fitting and HDPE Line and it cost me 80 bucks :/

LX_SS

Could be worse, wait till i get to the stainless brake lines. That will be hell. Probably have to sell a ******** for that

propaintball96

I bought the kit from inline tube 180 bucks and just modified them where I needed too. Worked great!

LX_SS

I decided to go with normal steel brake lines, stainless i cant justify ($400 for lines only), so i can do both size brake lines for $100 only, the fittings will be stainless tho.

I haven't had a good couple of days to finish the lhs manifold, its about half way through at the moment. I do get a couple of hours here and there to do things so i've been working on fabricating a bead roller for my 5/8" water tube for the heater system. When that's finished its another $450 i've saved on not buying the tooling to do it.

Of course i'll post pics when done. Just got so many things on the go welding wise.

LX_SS

So LHS headers are all tacked/mocked up. just need to weld and final finish them.

I haven't had much time to take pics of everything i've been doing but i do have some quick snaps of the header mock up.

I've got all the fittings for the power steering, all the hoses and power steering cooler (15 row -10an outlets), also got enough 304 stainless steel exhaust pipe to do the front half the exhaust as well as a 304 flex pipe and cat converter, all in 3".

Also got my 5/8" aluminum heater hose tubing ready for the heater hoses(have to go over the engine), but i need to purchase the A/C Pump to determine where exactly everything needs to route/bend too.

I've got a brace bar similar to the wonder bar but on the top of the chassis rails, it serves two purposes, 1 is bracing, however 2nd which is more important is the routing of all the power steering lines, and air conditioning lines as well as holding the lower radiator hoses.

Power Steer hoses are black stainless teflon braid, Air Con hoses are silver stainless teflon braid, both rated at 3000psi.

You can also see in the following pics, the 120 degree -6an fitting from the power steering pump, this is the only fitting thats a -AN that works due to the rest fouling the first spark plug.
Not an issue if you use the holley conversion for p/s,alt,a/c, but again i don't have $2k aud to spend on the assembly.


More to come soon. Lots more to fabricate still.

LX_SS

2 pipes are done, 2 more to go.

Once all 4 are done however, its then onto the collector, then adding the v-band.

A fair amount of time spent welding, grinding, minor changes to each pipe. Especially to get the fitment just the way you want it. Still, for the money i can't complain, as it only owes me $160 for all the pipes and flanges.

You can see it starting to take form now since being tacked.

Cant wait till it is finished, so i can move onto other items, its nice to see it finally moving (however slowly) closer to being able to be started.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Nice. What's the wall thickness on that tube?

LX_SS

4mm wall thickness

Quite overkill for the application, however the pipe was for another vehicle(turbo) which ended up no longer needed. So it found a use.

The bends are quiet a small radius compared to regular exhaust pipe also.

I will say they arn't the lightest units when complete but i have seen a lot heavier units with cast and being a short type of header they aint too bad.

Hopefully when they get hpc coated and with the wall thickness it will keep engine bay temps down.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Oh wow, that's pretty thick, I thought it looked like pipe instead of tube. Using leftovers is always good

LX_SS

Also managed to get my hands on some different calipers, using vz ssz, so i can use 320mm x 30mm front rotors and 286mm x 18mm rears that are both vented. instead of using the vy standard 296mm x 25mm front rotor & 286mm x 16mm rear solid rotor.

The new calipers still use the same mounts and backing plates with the park brake feature.

Calipers are virtually same as c5 corvette units.

Edit: After some more research, since i have to make up caliper adapter plates anyway, i found that it might be possible to fit larger rotor, 343mm or even 362mm using these calipers, have to check the pad surface area to make sure it will work, but the rest of the rotor specs match the 320's, the rear is possible with maybe the 315mm rotor, nothing larger in the size that will suit the caliper as the rotor width is an issue.

Most likely will go with the 343mm front / 315mm rear because the rotors are easily available at a reasonable price. The 362's are more than double per rotor.

So i might get some very large brakes after all :-)

LX_SS

Some more pics.

Rear runners are done, Pics show test fit to make sure its correct.
Last pic is the welding of runners to the flanges, need to wait for it too cool to do the other half the welds which are in a painful welding position but its doable. All clamped to the flat clamp table to reduce any warping.

After this its time to die grind, then work on the collector.

LX_SS

Die grinding all done, now time to do the triangles in the collector, then the collector itself, after that v-band and done.

p.s. i hate die grinding :-P

LX_SS

Headers all done with o2 bungs fitted, Will get coated in early Jan.
Y-Pipe is mostly done similar to factory, its just not connected to the driver header as i'm waiting on gaskets.

Working on a few other things currently. Many things to get done.

LX_SS

Here is the exhaust front pipe. You can see the clearance it gives, height wise i still have 135mm from the ground which is more than enough.
Especially since the rear needs to be lowered a tad.
(The oil puddle is from the auto, replaced the o-ring for the speed sensor as that was an issue but also need to do the dipstick).

Also you can see the start of the bar that goes across from rail to rail on the top side of the chassis.
I still need to add sheet metal work to it but it houses the power steering lines on the top of it, then above those will be air conditioning lines.
Below that bar will house the radiator hoses.
Clearance is tight but the radiator should never move.

Will finish that bar tomorrow and if i have the bolts to set in the riv nuts into the rails. Final trimming of the plates hasn't been done on the base yet.

LX_SS

Trimmed up one side base plate, fully welded the uprights onto the bases. Also welded caps on the ends of the bar, set the rivnuts in the rails and found some bolts to bolt it all down(will have to get new bolts in correct lengths tho).
Still need to trim the other side base plate and start adding the sections for the hoses.
Primer is just to stop any rust forming.
Also got a bit more clearance on the radiator fans which is nice, tho it will be a pain to remove the radiator, would have to unbolt the bar then the rad.

Will probably start working on the hose sections and trimming the other base plate tomorrow.

LX_SS

A little update, still need to weld this fully but the tacks are solid and hold it well.

This is the bottom half of the channel to house the hoses and some wiring(alternator).
There is a covering to go over the top, then that has another channel that houses the Air Con piping.

Driver side pic, Center pic showing clearance of water pump and additional space, Passenger side Y pipe return section.

Will post more soon.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

What is that lower radiator hose outlet? I havent seen that one before

LX_SS

LS 360 degree swivel thermostat housing, uses ls2 thermostat rather than ls1.

Aeroflow, CVR, Proflow, etc.. all virtually the same units.

Instead of putting the outlet into the steering box it can allow it to go directly down out of the way.

LX_SS

Today i was going to trim the other base plate, but since i have a new bottle of argon coming on thurs, i wanted to get as much welding done as possible with whats left, so i welded everything onto the brace, its solid as.
Also made the mounts for the lower radiator hose and cut some holes in them to allow airflow from the radiator to pass through.
Everything is in primer to stop any rust forming.

Next up i need to make some spacers for the top cover for that bar.
I really want to get the air con pump so i can work out where to run heater hoses and all that, but i want to take my exhaust manifolds to the coating place at the same time, so i have to wait till jan 12th for those items.

I'm a little concerned that the sway bar might be an issue tho.
If any one has some pics or can get some good pics of the front sway bar mounting and clearances that would be fantastic.

Also included a pic of the thermostat housing and hose.

LX_SS

So i've worked out a couple of changes to the cooling system, they are as follows.

Removal of the 19mm hose from the heater outlets on the water pump to the expansion tank.
Plugging of the radiator 10mm barb to expansion tank.
Removal of the entire expansion tank setup.
Removal of factory ls1 water pump heater outlet barbs.
Fitment of a top radiator hose inline filler.
Fitment of m18 & m20 to -10an fittings for the heater outlets on the water pump.
Fitment of a normal overflow tank rather than a pressurized expansion tank.

Also removed the rear lip on the upper chassis brace(on the steering box) as it was too close when removing the water pump which made it a pain but not impossible.
Trimmed the other base mount for the brace so its not square edged.
Repainted both items.

Not sure at the moment, but considering and if plausible funds wise i may be looking at a harrop m122/harrop tvs1900/magnuson 122 supercharger setup. Its an idea being toyed with.

LX_SS

Headers have been dropped off to be coated, should look quite nice when i get them back. Later this week/early next week.

High mount a/c has been purchased, so i can sort out all the heater lines etc...

LX_SS

More fittings coming today to sort out the heater stuff, As well i'm also changing the ps cooler for a smaller unit and using the larger unit for engine cooling.
Also getting fittings for the brake master to -3an and the fittings to suit the sanden 508 compressor.
In theory apart from hoses, i should have all the fittings for the a/c system.

The engine oil cooling system i will have to get a thermostat and some hose/fittings but that will be a little later on.

I've kind of blown the budget this week. The charger idea will have to wait a bit longer. So the unit i was looking at might not be available but its an ideal i will keep in mind for the future.

LX_SS

So i picked up the headers today, came out pretty good.
These are just as i picked them up, not cleaned or polished yet.
If i was to do it again, def would be some things i'd do differently however all a learning curve.
Welds look fantastic tho.

Back to working on it some more.
Its getting so much closer to being able to start.

evilstuie

Those look incredible!!!

Great job mate!!!

Now do a set for a 400SBC hahah

LX_SS

Some more updates.

Been organizing fittings and getting incorrect ones sent to me, so after getting things sorted and slowly progressing on items. Slowly ticking things off the ever long and growing list.

Power Steering Oil Cooler and Trans or Engine Oil Cooler (haven't decided on the purpose of the big one). The mounts uses the factory holes in the rail that are on both sides. I'll add an arm for the bottom of the large cooler, i haven't quite finished the mounting yet.

Engine bay as you can see is starting to get full, very full and i haven't even done the overflow bottle (under the battery tray since its not used for battery anymore as thats relocated to the boot). Uses a high mount a/c setup with a 7 rib sanden 508 compressor. The belt only uses the front 6 ribs and leaves one free at the back. I have the fittings for the pump, however i have to de chrome and modify one so it doesn't hit the bonnet.

A shot with the drivers side brake master and header, if you look closely between runners 3 and 4 on that side you will see a dimpled heat shield i made up for the starter motor comprising of 6 layers of thin aluminum.

Other shots are the water pump heater outlet fittings i sorted, its hard to get shots of the routing of them, but you can see where the hoses come out from in between the a/c relocation.

Slowly getting there tho, ever so close to starting up can almost taste it.
However i will do so without the tail shaft in(just using my original vy ss plug on the trans) so that way i cannot accidentally put it in gear and have the issue of no brakes since i don't have any brake lines.

If you were in vic stuie i could have made up some headers for you or modified yours to suit (would have had access to the car to do so).

Until next time, enjoy.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

Can't you just re-clock the a/c compressor so the lines wont hit the hood?

LX_SS

The outlets of the compressor if re-clocked hit the strut tower. Then if you continue to turn it so its 180 (outlets facing downward) the outlets clear, but the fittings start hitting the rail and the steering shaft.

Its not too difficult to de-chrome one fitting and modifying it. Its a stainless steel -10an fitting.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

OK, just a thought. I keep forgetting you drive on the other side too, lol so you have more stuff going on under the hood

LX_SS

You did get me thinking on different options however.
So after some research on the sanden 508 compressor, i found you can change the rear head / back cover to one which has outlets out the back rather than one that has outlets on the top.
So thats the route i will go for.

LX_SS

Small update.

Been working on the air con stuff, got all the hoses, clamps, new condenser and dryer. I haven't fitted the new stuff yet, i'm still using the old gear for templates as i dont want to contaminate the new stuff.

That being said i have tig welded the new air con -8an & -10an tube o-ring fittings to the existing air con hardlines, which i have cut and modified minimally to suit.

I'm waiting on the sanden sd508 rear cover with -8an & -10an tube o-ring fittings to come from the states, this may take a couple of weeks to get here.
Thanks to scooter for giving me the idea to look more into it and whats available, certainly much better than the top fitting unit even with modified fittings.

So the air con is complete once the hoses are crimped on which is an hour worth of work. That will be done just before the car is finished.

I'm slowly progressing and getting closer but now that the a/c system is sealed and to the point i'm happy at, i will get back onto finishing the front section of the exhaust and the oil cooler setup/hoses. I also need to sort out the battery cabling mounted in the rear of the car, however the rear is full of parts and i'm lacking room to sort them elsewhere. I've also got clips to mount the fuel, evap and brake lines to the rear (100% solid abs plastic), so i'll be getting onto them very soon.

Here is a couple of pics of the hard lines and the fittings.

LX_SS

Found an issue today with running the condenser suction line with the other power steering hoses.
Its mainly that if you want to remove the radiator fans or radiator, the brace bar moves the power steer lines out of the way, but the hard line of the condenser suction gets in the way (that's before hose is fitted).

So to combat this i have removed the routing of the hard line from going around behind the radiator to in front of the radiator.
To make this work, the panel that goes between the rad support and the bumper which houses the bonnet catch will have to have a hole cut out to give access to the charge port for the a/c.

I'll post some pics later on showing the difference, but this will allow the radiator and fans to be easily removed from the vehicle.
The a/c discharge line will still route over the brace bar, but as this is a long hose, it can easily be unbolted and moved aside.

LX_SS

Been a while since i posted, so its worthy of an update.

So i've cut out both sides where the battery trays are. replaced the left side and will be replacing the right side soon.
The intake piping is done, it has a rubber mount on the wheel well to help support the weight(even tho its aluminum) and will also allow for flex with the engine. The filter is mounted between the engine bay and the bottom of the bumper, for which i will make a duct to use the right hand side bumper opening to channel air into it.
The radiator overflow bottle is finished, painted and mounted. Its not big in room it takes up, however it still have a 3L capacity, so its huge in that sense. (i didn't mean to make it that big, it just filled the area i thought for it nicely).
The fuel and evap lines have been all bent up and fitted to the car however it still need some body p clamps still need to be mounted. Its an absolute pain in the *** to get the lines in the car with the engine and trans.
I still need to do brake lines for the rear, however i will do that when i remove the drive train.

Its getting closer, sort out the main power cabling, a couple of fittings for fuel line, a fuel cap, little more work on the exhaust, plus the usual plugs, oils and coolant and she will be ready to fire up.

Once its fired up and running, everything will be removed and then i'll get into more grinding and engine bay prep as well as some more firewall work, the brake system(lines and front calipers) and various other items. Then after thats complete i'll be working on the doors for the window motor conversion, replacement door hinge pins, conversion mirrors and replacement door handles. Also have some work to do on the t-top to make that a little better.

It would be nice to have it completely drive able by Jan next year, thats the goal anyway.

Here's some pics of a couple of the things mentioned above.

LX_SS

Got the clamps sorted for the fuel lines.

Took a day to make them up, solid abs plastic. They mount on the bottom bolt, upper bolt clamps them together. Still got a two more clamps to put where the trans is but they can wait till its all out.

I was initially a tad wondering on the strength of the clips, but after fitting and checking the line, they are super strong on there as a whole and the line is rock solid. I also had to make some 8mm solid spacers to give the clamps some clearance to the body on the top of the clamp otherwise they would be angled and not fit well. Spacers i will paint up later on.

The new fuel fittings should arrive today, and once i get them, i will also shorten the lines at the tank end. Connect it all up and done.

Some pics of said line clamps, the top hole on the clamps is to suit the 1/4" brake line (yet to be purchased).

matts86cam

iTrader: (1)

Inspiring thread man. Well done sir.

LX_SS

Update :

I'm at the stage where everything is done engine wise, so i planned to start it up on the weekend just gone.

I had cranking, but no firing. So wondering if it was to do with my bcm/pim/ecu/vats i had a guy come out and do some diagnostics with an advanced diagnostic unit(does lots more than my tech 2 does). Everything checked out good, all modules linked.

We then tested spark which was nice and strong, tested fuel in the rail which was fine, tested injector pulse which was present.

However there was no fuel getting into the cylinders.

So i removed the fuel rail and injectors from my ls1 ute, put then into the firebird and bam straight away she fired up. Runs very well, No leaks on any of the fittings.

So its ALIVE !!!! & its god damn loud, i mean really really really LOUD.

For the first time in years have i heard it run. The original injectors and rail from the engine must have had some corrosion and seized up.
So i'll have to sort that out.

I'm thinking i might sort out the front brakes, then finish the rear and do the brakes lines then its drive able / move able. Then work on the rest of the body.

Its always a nice feeling when you feel like your getting somewhere on progress.

evilstuie

Congratulations mate!
I can't wait for that same feeling for mine


Do you reckon you could send me the part numbers you used for your off angle steering shaft and joints?
Mine clears but I don't know if I'd trust it at high speed, so I'll get it redone at a shop and just give them the parts. Also the clearances are just too close and I think if the car twists or bends a little it might bind on the headers.


I'm still working on why my key turn doesn't activate the starter motor, so I'm assuming I'm missing a relay or wired the wrong wire to the starter solenoid, so it's good to hear I'm not the only one with hidden gremlins

LX_SS

My Steering Shafts could be different to your setup.
However these are the components i used, all Flaming River parts.

3/4" DD to 3/4" DD Stainless Steel Polished Universal : Part No.: FR2516DDPL
This is at the steering box, i had to make the steering box to 3/4" DD adapter up to bolt it on, However if you have clearance there, you can buy this adapter off the shelf.

22" Stainless Steel Polished 3/4" DD Steering Shaft, Non Collapsible : Part No.: FR1850-22SSPL
My steering collapses in the column itself, so i don't need it in the shaft. Again this connects the universal to the steering column which is a VY unit. Factory pontiac no idea.

3/4" Stainless Steel Polished Support Bearing : Part No.: FR1811PL
This is to give the steering shaft support, since i have 2 universals on the column (1 at firewall, other 12" from the firewall) and also one at the steering box.

LX_SS

So i've decided to work on the brakes and get the car moving and driving before i tackle some other things.

The front brakes consist of VZ SSZ calipers (VZ monaro is the same also), They use db7599 pads which are C5 corvette. The VZ disc rotor doesn't fit on the originals discs machined into hubs due to the depth of the rotor itself(they hit the steering arms, etc).

So to make the conversion work, a set of C5 corvette disc rotors are used on the front with the addition of longer studs. The relocation bracket is a little different than the standard c5 corvette brackets as these don't mount the same as the C5.
Apart from that the conversion is very similar to the C5 conversion.

The rear can still use the Holden VZ SSZ Calipers and rotors, i got some tinkering to do on the rear as i want to change the little round spacers for something a little more sturdy(from earlier in this thread). These rears do allow to retain the handbrake also.

There is custom lines to order to suit all this also, however i'm waiting till i get the fronts mounted then i'll order the ADR approved brake hoses from the caliper to the wheel arch and the master to the T- adapter(master runs the flex line also because if you need to take the exhaust manifold off, you cannot do so with the master in place, so the flex line allows you to move the master out of the way without bleeding. This will have its own locators to reduce movement when its in use).

All up the front brake conversion cost is $750aud for calipers,pads,rotors,wheel bearings,seals and lines from caliper to wheel well. As much as i'd like to have purchased a c5 bolt on setup from bbu, the cost in doing so would have set me back around the $1400ish mark after conversion and shipping.

Rear brakes costs are in the area of about $450-550aud for calipers,pads,rotors,backing plates, park brake assembly.

These don't factor in any work to convert the brake system over.

Edit : So after numerous attempts at getting the brackets to suit the ssz calipers, the caliper bracket itself simply just doesn't suit the stub axle unless running a massive rotor (360mm +) for which the caliper is a big let down on those size rotors. So since everything else i got is c5 rotors on the front and the pads i already have are c5, i'll just use the c5 calipers in there place. Same thing effectively as the ssz caliper is a c5 unit just with holden bolt pattern.

LX_SS

Update :

Front brakes are all bolted on and fitted. C5 325mm Rotors & Twin Piston Calipers. Modified wheel bearing dust caps so they don't poke out my wheel center caps no more. The factory C5 caliper hose to the body works on both sides, so i won't replace these yet, in the future i will.

I've made up a bracket for the proportioning valve to go behind the booster against the firewall. Its a Wilwood adjustable unit.

I've started making up the brake lines from the valve to the m/c (done) and will do the lines from the rear and both front calipers to the valve(Fronts done and Rear to go).
Making brake lines isn't a fun job, well it kinda is but its fiddly.

The rear brakes i've changed slightly. I've ditched the 286mm VY SS rotors and calipers (they were a 16mm thick solid rotor) and gone in favor of a VE V6 rotor which is 302mm x 22mm vented rotors.
These rotors are half the depth almost of the VY SS which will make things fit a whole lot easier.
Also this VE rear setup will still work with the backing plates (modified) and the parking drum assembly as that is the same size but different style on the ve.

The downside of this rear setup, the axle hub will have to be machined down to 67.4mm (there is plenty of meat to do this) to locate the disc and i'll also include a step down to 67.1mm to suit my hub rings for my wheels.

All fun and games but its getting there.

EnglishFirebird

This is inspirational stuff. Is there any chance you could do an updated set of photos going all around the car please?

I have a 91 Firebird in the UK, it is almost unheard of to see an RHD conversion of one of these, but my plan was always to throw out most of the original plastic and muppet-fur interior and replace it with a newly fabricated interior. I also intend one day to convert it to electric power, so I figure why not go all out and RHD it at the same time! Seeing your work has helped to remind that if you no longer care about originality, as long as it is well made and passes vehicle safety checks, it's all good!

LX_SS

So its been a little bit since updating, i've had a couple of days here and there to tinker around with getting things done. Mostly been doing little fiddly bits like interior light rewiring to suit the light i have etc...
Also you will see a pic of the fuel pressure sensor i've added to the stock ls1 fuel rail, fits like its designed to be there.
I don't have many pics of the exterior sorry EnglishFirebird as i haven't even begun to work on this. Most of what you would see is a stock white 85 firebird with a ground effects kit.

The other main bit is i've started on the doors. So far i've got the passenger door handle done, it needs a little more smoothing out and i've got about 1mm or so of very minor warping from the welding which to be honest is bugger all and pretty easy to pull out as its low not high.
I've made up new rods for the door handle to activate the door latch to open using the ss/gto factory door rods as donors.
I still need to plate up the original key barrel area which is no big deal, i should have that easily done tomorrow.
I must say tho that the new door handle is super smooth in its action, opening and closing the door is a lot gentler and quieter than the factory handles.
After the door handle area is completely done, i'll be moving onto the side mirror for that door, then i'll do the same for the drivers side door.

The door handle skin was cut from the gto and then trimmed to go into the firebird door, welded using the mig process that painstakingly takes a lot of time just in trying to keep the heat down and minimize the warping that could occur.

Anyway here's some pics (including one you can see of the brake master lines that i had to fab up). Also here is another pic of something random that i had to make up as a small side project, 304 stainless steel plates 80mm x 80mm, punched 10mm holes, tig welded, then sanded and polished.

Enjoy.

scooter

iTrader: (11)

That transducer setup is awesome. I will have to try to remember that for a factory rail. That die is nice too

LX_SS

Some more info on the fuel sensor setup for you scooter.

The Fuel Sensor is a Chinese stainless unit, purchased for about $20 au. The autometer equivalent would have set me back $160aud.
Its the exact same specs as the autometer unit, 0.5v = 0psi, 2.5v = 50psi, 4.5v = 100psi. Liner calibration. 3 wire sensor with waterproof plugs, 5v power input(not 12v), sensor output, and Ground.
To mount it on the rail requires removing the schrader valve, using -4an (rail thread) to 1/8"npt male, 1/8"npt to 1/8"npt female 90 degree, and the sensor is 1/8"npt male.

Those combination of fittings gave me the right spacing to fit exactly in the space the manifold has. I also tried a straight 1/8"npt female/female which put the sensor into my p/s tank. It may be possible with a direct -4an to 1/8"npt female fitting to put the sensor in directly straight but i haven't tested this.