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i have done a little welding in my buddy's garage. Bush league or rookie at best right now. me and my brother decided to go half n half on a welder for the garage, i wanted to hear some opinions and suggestions on good welders for the first purchase beginner welder. thanks
I would skip the 110 welders and get a 220 if you're able to. 110 is great for the hobbyist that is making art from 1/16" sheets to sell at a craft fair. 220 will give you the penetration you really need for anything, especially if you do any frame work. Chicago Electric I believe makes a decent buzz box for light duty welding. If you plan on welding more than a few hours a week, you should look at investing at a quality welder like a Miller or Lincoln.
I just recently started welding. I bought a Lincoln 140 and I'm happy with it. With that said I know someone who's been using a $100 harbor freight special for several years now and is happy with it as well.
Whatever you do, you need to run gas. Welding got so much better when I made the switch from flux core.
I worked in a Fab shop for 16 years and have owned a bunch of "home grade" machines. The more your budget allows up front will definitely pay for itself as you progress. As previously stated stay away from anything 110. I have a Miller 220 mig at work (mechanic) these days and I use it mainly for replacing cats. I do alot of personal projects and that machine is good for penetration up to 1/2 inch with the right gas. Flux core wire is great but for structural integrity imo solid core with at least a bottle of 75/25 gas is the way to go. Again everything depends on what you aim to do but remember a cheap/small machine can't do what a quality bigger amp machine can. Also consider the duty cycle, most small machines are not 100% duty and will need a cool down period after alot of continuous welding. Esab, Lincoln, Miller are all great proven machines but they are pricey as well. I will post pics of my set up tomorrow. I think we have a little over 2k in everything. But you can find good used machines on Craigslist, just be sure you can test them before you buy a used unit.
For mig I have a Hobart Handler 210. It has since been upgraded by Hobart to the 210MVP so you can use it with 110 or 220v. Good machine, works well down low and up high.
Here's my mig set up. This thing is awesome even compared to the industrial units I used at the Fab shop. You can even buy an aluminum spool gun for it. I replaced original 5' lead/gun with a 12' unit.
For mig I have a Hobart Handler 210. It has since been upgraded by Hobart to the 210MVP so you can use it with 110 or 220v. Good machine, works well down low and up high.
I knew there was one I forgot to mention and Hobart was it, definitely one of the better units as well.
I knew there was one I forgot to mention and Hobart was it, definitely one of the better units as well.
Hobart is Miller's more economical line. Sometimes just a step below the blue product, sometimes just as good. There have been many comparisons online, so don't count them out. Mine has run many spools through it.
My Hobart Handler 140 has done almost everything I've asked it to do, even as a 110v unit. Then again, I'm mostly using it for sheet metal, fixing tools, welding exhaust, etc.
If 220 is a must, I'd look at a Hobart Handler 190 or 220 MVP. The MVP has a higher duty cycle than the 190 and is dual voltage. I've heard good things.
I bought a Miller 211 and love it. It is small enough for home use and it is dual voltage (110 or 220). I notched my k-member and even shaved and welded up the coolant/washer fluid bumps in my engine bay. It is pretty much a miller 212 in compact size and much cheaper. You can also buy an aluminum spool gun for it if you want.
It depends what you are welding as to what welder you need. A 110V welder will work fine for up to 3/16" provided you understand what you are doing. A 110V can weld 1/8" and 3/16" but it will require a bevel being ground, multiple weld passes and the metal being clean, ie. no mill scale to burn through. For autobody work a 110V is all you need since the majority of autobody work is done on metal less than 0.120" thick. People knock the 110V welders because they have a 220V welder and can weld 1/8" and up in a single pass without a bevel ground and they try the same thing on a 110V and it gives a complete lack of fusion. The weld is nothing more than a hot glue gun for metal.
I did my entire car with a 110V Eastwood welder. Sheet metal, shaving everything in the engine bay, making a transmission crossmember and making and then welding in subframe connectors. Like I said, if it was thicker material I just welded it with an open root and/or ground a bevel. I had penetration on both sides and on test pieces the welds didn't crack.
Flux core has better fusion than solid core but they are both short circuit wire welders so their ability to fuse will never be as dependable as a TIG or O/A. This is why there are so many codes and rules against using solid core MIG in the welding world.
In the 110V world some good MIG/Flux Core welders are the Eastwood, AHP and Longevity. I own the Eastwood and have been happy with it but the others would work just as well and have a good warranty. The Longevity comes with a spool gun so you can weld thin aluminum.
In a 220V, well, that depends on your pocket book but again Eastwood and AHP make good hobbyist welders. For lots of use long term (again using it not in a professional hours per day setting) I think a Hobart is the best buy.
For TIG I would go straight to a 220V capable welder. Same thing here though, depends on your pocket book. I went the AHP and (so far) have been very happy with it.
I worked in a Fab shop for 16 years and have owned a bunch of "home grade" machines. The more your budget allows up front will definitely pay for itself as you progress. As previously stated stay away from anything 110. I have a Miller 220 mig at work (mechanic) these days and I use it mainly for replacing cats. I do alot of personal projects and that machine is good for penetration up to 1/2 inch with the right gas. Flux core wire is great but for structural integrity imo solid core with at least a bottle of 75/25 gas is the way to go. Again everything depends on what you aim to do but remember a cheap/small machine can't do what a quality bigger amp machine can. Also consider the duty cycle, most small machines are not 100% duty and will need a cool down period after alot of continuous welding. Esab, Lincoln, Miller are all great proven machines but they are pricey as well. I will post pics of my set up tomorrow. I think we have a little over 2k in everything. But you can find good used machines on Craigslist, just be sure you can test them before you buy a used unit.
so I can't go wrong with a miller 220? price isn't a concern if quality is there. I would rather have a welder that I can use for a long period of time, that I wouldn't have to upgrade later.
I'm going to disagree with just about anything said about the 110v welders. A quality 110V welder will do almost everything that a 220V MIG (in the 175-200amp class) will in capable hands. I started with a Hobard Handler 135 (the old name for the HH140). Back then I did custom fabrication work for a speed shop, a lot of repairing rare and custom suspension parts and stuff like that.
I upgraded to a Miller 211MVP a few years ago, and honestly except for the little bit of extra power and the fact that I got a spool gun I like the HH135 better (I keep meaning to sell the HH135 but I haven't yet). The HH has a smoother arc and is easier to lay down a really good looking bead with.
If you need to weld heavier stuff (like say 3/8" or thicker steel) with a 110V welder you have to chamfer the edges of the weld sooner, weave a little more and/or travel slower. With really heavy stuff you need to make multiple passes, but you'd need to do that with the 220 and even a heavy industrial welder. I've welded up to 1" steel with my HH135 and with a Lincoln weldpack 140.
If you're looking at the cheaper MIGs (the 135/140 with 110V welders and the 175/180 220V welders) then choose by what power is more convenient for you (I upgraded to the 211 mostly because I had easier access to a high amp 220V circuit than 110 and for the aluminum spool gun). In that grade of welder I'd recommend the Hobart Handler (I would still buy my HH135, it's a great little machine) and the Lincoln Pro Mig. They are really nice welders. The MillerMatic in the same class is also, but it does something called wire speed tracking where it messes with the wire speed in addition to what you set it with the **** that makes it harder to weld correctly with and confuses people learning.
The other advantage there is that you're not into it a lot and you've bought a machine that is easy to sell after you've learned what you're doing and know that more advanced features you want (though even most pro welders will keep one more of these welders around for their utility).
If I was looking to go a class or 2 over that, I'm not sure if I would go with the MM211MVP anymore. It's a nice machine (it has some of the utility of the smaller HH135 in that it comes with both a 110 and 220V plug, it's only slightly bigger and heavier), but I don't think that it's functionality is worth the extra cost. It just barely has enough power to go into spray arc, and honestly the Spoolmate 100 spool gun I got with it has some serious design flaws, here's me fixing one of them: http://mpikas.blogspot.com/2015/02/c...-100-3035.html
What I would end up with now would depend on cost, I'd probably look at HTP and some of the import machines that do pulse welding, and a spool gun at least in the class of the Spoolmate 150. I've honestly considered selling one of my MIGs and my Miller Synchrowave TIG and replacing them with one of the newer inverter TIGs, but that's another story, not really an entry level machine. Otherwise, I would likely just use the HH135 till something turned up that was a real game changer at a price that was really more reasonable than they are now.
i have done a little welding in my buddy's garage. Bush league or rookie at best right now. me and my brother decided to go half n half on a welder for the garage, i wanted to hear some opinions and suggestions on good welders for the first purchase beginner welder. thanks
What type of welding are you looking to do, and what materials? TBH, unless you are doing frames, stainless, aluminum, cast, or anything really thick, flux core, or a good stick welder will be fine.
Flux core is a PITA to get good beads at time. When I do flux core, the wire I've had the best luck with is from ESAB, lots of wire has too much splatter. For occasional use, a cheapo is fine. Like the harbor freight one that is always on sale for under $100.
Or you can get a stick/arc welder. Those old lincoln units seem to last forever. It seems like every farmer has one of those and they just seem to work and last forever.
Now, MIG would be nice, but argon is just a little expensive. However, you can also do flux core without the argon. Tons of companies make affordable mini migs. MIG is great all around for ease of use.
You can also buy machines that are arc and tig. Whatever. Some aren't too awfully expensive.
Personally, if I were you, just get the cheapo HF one and if you out grow it, get a good one.
will be used for exhaust, k member notching, subframes. I got a 64 impala so possibly box that frame once my skills are up to par. looking to use it for any welding that could possibly occur with cars. me and my brother are discussing MIG vs TIG. he likes TIG, said it's cleaner and better to learn. I have no preference. definitely would like a machine that can do aluminum and steel.
I bought and htp tig welder 2-3 years ago, love it, I also have Lincoln mp 210 mig welder. I love how the tig welds look, I'll take a tig welder any day of the week over a mig. I have so much more control with tig. But I'm just a hobby welder.
will be used for exhaust, k member notching, subframes. I got a 64 impala so possibly box that frame once my skills are up to par. looking to use it for any welding that could possibly occur with cars. me and my brother are discussing MIG vs TIG. he likes TIG, said it's cleaner and better to learn. I have no preference. definitely would like a machine that can do aluminum and steel.
Being across the ocean i cant comment on the voltages you guys run but from others have said 220v is the go for a machine.
All my machines are 240v and are great welders, i have a Migomag 210a i use for most welding on the cars (light gauge), i use the CIG Transmig 275a for thicker structural work such as chassis rails to structural 12mm plate. Also i have a 250a TIG welder(AC/DC + Pulse) that i use for all my Aluminum and Stainless welding and some mild steel depending on what calls for it.
I can do Aluminum MIG welding on the CIG machine, however to achieve the coin/dimes look that most people want you have to use a TIG.
I'd also suggest that most car welding (if its not parts that are bolted on) generally are done with a MIG rather than TIG.
If ya want any more info on the gear i use, shoot me a pm and i'll send you some of the details.
I'd also suggest that most car welding (if its not parts that are bolted on) generally are done with a MIG rather than TIG.
Reminds me of cautionary note. If you are going to be welding on assembled cars with sensitive electronics then MIG or stick is safer than a tig with high frequency start. With the newer TIG units you would have to disconnect all the ecm/pcm/electronic boxes. The frequency will kill the diodes. With MIG or stick your fairly safe as long as you disconnect the battery and ground as close to the weld as possible.
so I can't go wrong with a miller 220? price isn't a concern if quality is there. I would rather have a welder that I can use for a long period of time, that I wouldn't have to upgrade later.
Quality is definitely there, and imo if you can go big out of the gate and get a nice Miller or Lincoln why would you not. Your ahead of the game and can tackle almost any fab/welding job that comes your way.
If anything I have said offended the 110 guys I surely didn't mean it, I have owned some really good 110 units that are capable of anything auto related. I'm just letting the op know that if he's investing money in a machine and has the means to go a little farther money wise to go with a 220, he definitely won't regret going bigger. If I sounded like I'm bashing the 110 units I'm surely not.
07-09-2017, 06:07 PM
