When >/= 1.75" primaries are concerned I have become dismayed at the lack of header choices available to our cars. For 1.75" primaries I am limited to Dyno Don's shorties or Hooker Long tubes. Both are fairly expensive when you consider the versions that use 1.5 or 1 5/8 are not even half the price. I began looking at some other shorty and mid-length header options for the LS and the prices seem more on par. So my thought was, can I just take a pair of LS headers and:
1. chop off the cylinder head flange with my bandsaw
2. weld the front and back primaries back on the flange
3. Cut the middle primaries back a little and just weld in new pipe to connect to the middle ports?

I've never held an LS header for a thirdgen so I'm not sure how easily achieved this may be. I have a TIG and MIG so welding them myself isn't an issue.

 

Buy flanges and bends and make your own custom set.

 

Can you recommend any "kits?" I looked at some but by the time I bought the kit and the flange I was almost back at what a 1-3/4" LS header costs. The header making threads on here are kinda limited. This was the best one I found: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...ml#post5208120 The drivers side looks good.

 

There are plenty of kits out there but one web site always comes to mind.

www.headersbyed.com

You could also by flanges and a bunch of mandrel bent tubes and build something from scratch.

 

It's not that crazy an idea, I've done it with other engine/header combinations (Cadillac 500ci swapped into an a-body and done something similar using BBC headers for that chassis).

The big thing is figuring out how much the flange position is different between the 2 engines. What I did was cut the headers at the flanges, mounted the new flanges on the engine, dropped the headers in and trimmed till 2 of the tubes lined up like I wanted them with the header in a usable position, then I mostly bent/pie cut the others to line up correctly and re-welded.

What are you looking for in a header? I know that some 4th gen LT1 headers will bolt onto a SBC and clear in a 3rd gen (bolt in or minor mods), you just need to make pipes to connect up to the exhaust, and some are 1-3/4" stainless shorties.

 

I want a mid-length or shorty header for ground clearance and also starter, clutch solenoid and oil filter clearance. For less than $600 shipped. I have the knowledge and equipment so I may look into the LT1 offerings or just make my own. I found some flanges that look good, 3/8" laser cut flange with 1-3/4" 16 gauge stubs welded on. I wouldn't have to worry about warping the flange if I start with those.

 

ill sell you my dyno dons for 550 shipped

 

You can buy them new for that. The whole point of this thread was because I'm not going to pay that price for a header.

 

You get what you pay for. My Ed Quay BBC headers are worth $1000 - $1500.

 

What a set of headers or pre bent exhaust is worth is subjective. How much free time do you have? Can you weld the metal you want to use? How much disposable income do you have? Can you modify an existing header/exhaust or is it totally from scratch? I've already answered all these questions in my head and decided that $300 is the most I'll pay for a set of headers. Not because I'm cheap or poor but because I have the material, welding equipment, and access to a tubing bender so I can add on, modify or Cannibalize an existing set of headers into what I need.

 

thats what they cost new without shipping and add 270 for the dual cat y pipe your looking at over $800

 

What's wrong with the shorty 1 3/4" stainless chinese headers?

-- Joe

 

Like my prior post discussed, I've answered the questions about what I'll pay for headers and $500, let alone $800 or $1000 is far above it. But even if I was OK with spending that much on shorty headers, there is one local welding fab shop and another custom motorcycle shop that would take the job AND make them out of stainless for $500.

 

I looked into making my own headers in stainless, and for the price of the materials alone was almost what a lot of the places that sell them for already made, in the U.S.A., So I am thinking this place you're referring to has to be using slave labor, and chinese stainless to even begin to be able to brake even on their cost at only $500 for something custom made, in stainless. In mild steel, yeah, they could be making money on them at $500 for custom made headers

 

Depends on the shop. I've seen some "custom" made headers come out of a shop in california that look like they were welded with a coat hanger and a car battery, and they go for big money too.

I have some Chinese stainless (1 3/4" long tube) headers that have fantastic tig welds, don't leak, don't rust, etc.

-- Joe

 

That was my other thought

 

1.75" 304 stainless in 18 gauge I as Joe schmo can get for $10-12 per foot. I imagine they could get it cheaper. Long tubes could see $200-300 in material but shorties would not be over $200. They both have tubing benders or could do pie cuts or spend more on pre bent tube. If I gave them a header to copy it would go even faster. Remember that labor rate will be far more in California and the other liberal run high cost of living meccas.

 

Didn't know they existed. I thought all the Chinese designs were still stuck at 1 1/2" or 1 5/8". Do you have a link?

 

WOW. Tibo actually wants to fabricate, and he gets bashed.
Look at his signature - "A build thread where I do more than bolt on parts:".
Real car crafting was about doing exactly that.
Now it seems that it's only about bolt-ons.
Don't get me wrong, bolt-ons are convenient.
But what happens when they don't fit as promised?
Tibo knows what to do.

 

I was looking at buying bends more than t straight pipe since I don't have a bender. It adds up quickly, but I still don't think you're building stainless long tubes for under $500 at a shop, MAYBE if they're directly copying another set, but that isn't so easy

 

My posts were talking about shorty headers. Long tubes would probably be a little more.

 

Oops, ok,shorties may be $500 in stainless to make. Sorry for the dissenting opinion

 

Nope 1.75"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-St...JWuhfE&vxp=mtr

They are a knockoff of a hooker or something, I can't remember. But they used 1 3/4" tubing.

-- Joe

 

I can't tell if those would fit in our engine bay or not regarding the firewall. Also looks like they have the same problem with the furthest forward primary would hit my spark plugs. Have to cut and reweld them like I'm currently doing with the long tubes.

 

They fit the engine bay. I had a set I was gonna use for a turbo. I might even have a picture somewhere.

I don't know about plug access. Those older AFR heads suck with most headers.

The newer afters have a similar issue on #6 with some headers.


-- Joe

 

I'm learning the plugs are at a bad angle.....
Thanks for letting me know about the headers.

 

I had a employee put a ls1 in his 84 z and he bought a cheap build a header kit and knocked it out in about 7 hours. It was his first time he only had a few months experience doing exhaust for me. He only used a mig welder. He messed up one pipe but it was really only cosmetic. Take a swing at it you'll probably get better ground clearance than the hookers.