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Another project I just finished up was the installation of a Moroso Accumulator. I was able to buy a nice used 3qt unit and a billet mount from a circle track racer that was converting his engine to a dry sump system. While the accumulator was cheap the -10an hose and fittings were not. I elected to use an electric solenoid valve to control the oil flow from the accumulator. I have the solenoid wired to open the valve when the ignition is turned on. I have Fitech fuel injection installed on my car, and when you start the car, you turn the ignition on and this energizes the injection system and the fuel pump, and the injectors spray a prime shot to help start the engine. This sequence takes about 3 seconds. By having the oil accumulator open when the ignition is turned on it sends 3qts of pressurized oil into the engine to lubricate the rods, mains, and lifters, prior to the engine starting, preventing dry starts. While the engine is running the accumulator is constantly refilling and discharging oil as oil pressure rises and falls. Before I shut the engine off I Rev it up for a few seconds, raising the oil pressure to around 45psi and then shut the engine off. The solenoid valve closes and holds that pressurized oil until the car is started again. The accumulator is "T'd" into the oil line coming from the oil cooler. To keep the pressurized oil from the accumulator from flowing back to the cooler and not toward the engine, I plumbed in a check valve between the cooler and the tee. 3qt accumulator with electric solenoid valve. Check valve before tee fitting.
I was always told, actually hammered into me, that the mounts for an Accusump need to be at the ends. That's where the only support for the Accusump body tube are, which are the end caps. Installing them with mounting brackets too far toward the middle of the housing can cause the housing to distort, jamming the piston inside.
Another big project I took care of last year was to totally rewire the car. I had originally reused the factory c100 plug and wiring, cutting out what I didn't need and adding what I didn't have. It kind of worked ok, but the birds nest of wires under the dash was a nightmare. My car is pretty basic electronically, no heat, no stereo, no pw, pl, pseats, but I needed more than a basic 12 circuit universal wiring kit. I settled on a 21 circuit kit from Speedway. It's a nice kit, wire is good quality and plenty long. The fuse block integrates the turn signal and 4 way flashers so it's compact. What the kit does not include is any type of wiring diagram. The wires are all labeled headlights, ignition, turn signal, but how they actually wire into the car is up to you to figure out. A good 3rd gen wiring diagram and a lot of patience will make the job go better.
I don't like sticking my head under the dash to check fuses, and since I'm building the car I decided to make a slide out drawer on the passenger side of the dash to hold the fuse box and possibly an msd box someday. Slide-out electrical drawer Fuse box mounted Drawer closed. Not shown are the 3 10-32 thumb screws that secure the drawer when closed. After the new wiring was routed it was all covered in a nylon wrap. This was much easier to use than the factory corrugated plastic loom. Behind the dash is much less cluttered.
That drawer is an awesome idea!! I've been thinking of redoing the wiring in our car, and that would be a nice addition.
I was always told, actually hammered into me, that the mounts for an Accusump need to be at the ends. That's where the only support for the Accusump body tube are, which are the end caps. Installing them with mounting brackets too far toward the middle of the housing can cause the housing to distort, jamming the piston inside.
I was always told, actually hammered into me, that the mounts for an Accusump need to be at the ends. That's where the only support for the Accusump body tube are, which are the end caps. Installing them with mounting brackets too far toward the middle of the housing can cause the housing to distort, jamming the piston inside.
I was concerned about distortion as well, but the piston moves back and forth in the cylinder with just a couple psi of air pressure.
I was always told, actually hammered into me, that the mounts for an Accusump need to be at the ends. That's where the only support for the Accusump body tube are, which are the end caps. Installing them with mounting brackets too far toward the middle of the housing can cause the housing to distort, jamming the piston inside.
I was worried about that as well, but the piston moves freely front to back with just a few psi of air pressure when mounted. I've also installed a pressure gauge in the dash that measures the air pressure behind the piston. This should mimic the oil pressure in the tank. With this gauge I'll be able to tell if the system holds pressure between startups and how it modulates with changes in engine oil pressure due to engine temp and rpm. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate that would be a sign that the piston is stuck.
