Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Change the fluid 7000 miles?? what are you nuts?? I dont even think the minimum is 25000 miles, if it smells burnt or is dirty then change it, or else its fine. And the fluid does matter, you ever try trick shift, works great, you can definetly feel the difference.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

150* is probably right around borderline, it's probably enough to get the tranny to operate correctly, but not enough to effectively evaporate off the condensation that forms inside the transmission when it cools off.

I suspect that that or slightly higher is around where my transmission runs in my truck most of the time since I added an external cooler, still routing the return line through the stock cooler in the radiator to pick up some heat there, and since then I haven't had the same problems with heat destroying my tranny fluid (It used to get so bad that it wouldn’t shift right, or at least feel the change in shifts after about 3-5000miles of use if I did any towing), but lately I’ve been having a problem with the dipstick rusting in the tube…

Apeiron

Do you know why you can feel a difference with Trick Shift?

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

All trick shift is is ford type F with blue dye in it.

I’m not sure that it’s something that I would do to a new or any transmission that I intend to keep for a while, but I have done it to get an extra few thousand miles out of a tranny that was dying, but then I would just use cheap type F rather than expensive trick shift.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

I guess I will stick with my current setup. If I go ***** to the wall it will go 175* maybe. My external cooler is hardcore.

You should get a lokar dipstick assembly. Nice tube and a non metal dipstick.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

that doesn't solve the prolem, there would still be water sitting inside the transmission not evaporating off...

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

This is the first I have heard of it. I would like to see some evidence that running 150* WILL hurt my transmission. Not that I do not believe you, but this is the first I have heard of it. I am not willing to get rid of an expensive cooler because of one persons opinion. (No offensive to you).

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Well, there’s a big difference between fact and opinion, and if you pay attention to what I bother posting about you’ll see that I don’t tend to waste people’s times with opinions unless I state that’s what they are. I tend to be very straight forward with my responses.

That said. Water plus any petroleum based lubricant that gets pumped stirred around is not a good thing. Pick any oil in your garage, mix it with some water and whip it up and see what happens (replace the petroleum oil with vegetable oil and you get an edible version of the same stuff, mayo, try pump that through a set of bearings, or see how fast an significant water will wipe out bearings. Second, what makes automatic transmissions more susceptible is that they use paper clutches, which are fine in oil, but fall apart when in contact with water. Water will wipe out an automatic transmission faster then filling the oil with grit and poking holes in the filter to let it get pumped around.

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

There is a HUGE difference between pouring water in oil and some condensation.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

the condensation adds up over time if it doesn't get hot enough for long enough to burn the water off.
if your getting to 150 & keeping it there for half an hour or longer, your probably fine.

firebird904

my 700r4 had 160,000 and was shifting great and then i did an engine swap and my father decided he would drop the engine in for me and broke the bell housing

Toyota h8r

any idea why my 91 700r4 had 2nd gear one day and next go out for work and no 2nd gear.

just completely missing

kevinjlewis

By and large, I believe in buying cheap and changing often is the best preventative maintenance. However, I feel motor oil is the only exception. I get mobile one full syn. at wal-mart for $22.00, You can get a decent oil filter here on the cheap also. Anyway, I just wanted to hear your thought on synthetic motor oil, all things aside-

RMK

In the socialist UK mobil1 costs $75 for 4 litres.

ericjon262

3 in a million, my car has 160000 miles, factory trans, no fluid change ever, my 86 K5 blazer was the same way 165000, no changes, no slips.

oh, and I'm not easy on it either!

jm84z28

iTrader: (1)

haha good old chevy trans for u lmao

jimdutro

iTrader: (1)

My `88 Iroc also has the original 700r4 with 160k miles. I have never had any auto trans problems in any GM car I`ve owned the past 43 years if I use a trans cooler and deep pan. I also service the trans every year, cheap insurance.

ericjon262

I guess they don't last forever though,(shoulda knocked on wood), mine started slipping earlier this week.

JTNKTZ

iTrader: (10)

130k miles on mine then it started to slip then one day I lost 3-4th pack completely. Switched to another used tranny (100k miles) and it's slippin a little. Starting to buy parts for my T56 lol.

surfmurf

Hey guys; I found Speed Hut last year and chose their gauges. After pouring over the gauge industry, I was gonna go with Auto Meter, but fortunately I found Speed Hut and liked their many options much more. They have many sizes, can be customized as you wish via their "standard" custom options menu or via their totally custom shop (too wild for me). Got a 120 mph GPS Speedo. All my gauges are 270 degree sweep, Speedo and Tach 3.375" and others at 2.625" (vice 2.0625", which I chose 1st, but didn't like - for my old eyes). The 140s and 160s ONLY Speedos are what drove me from other shops, though Speed Hut offer these too and more.

Veaceonee

iTrader: (1)

I swapped my trans at 215k. It was severely f-d with, but the trans guy said the guts were factory.

FRMULA88

If memory serves me correct the service interval for the 700 is every 12,000 miles.

(Filter change, clean inside of pan, new pan gasket, and replace the fluid lost from the pan removal)

MOST people do not follow this.

92GTA

iTrader: (11)

My original trans started slipping at about 98,xxx miles. Was totally stock untouched with no additional cooler.

I bought a rebuild kit from Pro-Built including a 12" 2400RPM stall (I didn't want the 9" because of too much heat). I paid the specialist in my town (he used to be build these for race cars for many years) to do the R&R for me.

Tru-Cool Transmission Oil Cooler, 18,000 GVW
Heavy Duty Flexplate

Pro-Built 4L60 Transmission featuring the following:
ACT 2400 RPM Stall Converter w/Lock-Up
Corvette Servo and Housing
3-4th Gear Up-Shift Valve Mod (Ability for WOT in 4th)
GM HD Sunshell
Hi-Energy Borg-Warner Clutches and Bands
TransGo Recalibration Kit

Chevrolet S10 Pickup Shift Governor* Done by my re-builder to get the shift points where we likes them.

That rebuild had a catastrophic failure at about 200,xxx miles so it lasted the same 100,000 the original one did. The planetary let go, it was a mess, I was hard as hell on that bitch for that entire time tho! He had to do an entire flush of the cooling system and thankfully was able to save the radiator and tranny cooler. Also had to do a rebuild on the TQ converter.

I'm at 237,xxx now and still going strong. So for me, who knows if that 18K GVW trans cooler I have running after my radiator is doing any good lol. Perhaps if this build lasts longer than 100,000 I'll know, I'm sure it's better than nothing. Next rebuild I'll for sure be going with a 2800RPM 9" stall converter and at least a 25K GVW trans cooler tho. Also will do the 5-gear planetary. I also have heard about people machining the valve body in certain places certain ways to increase fluid flow, I've heard that only applies to the 700R4 though and not the 4L60 as that is supposed to have gotten an updated valve body in 88 or 89 when the 4L60 replaced the 700R4.

Lastly for what it's worth, I only use the GM fluid and do a complete change every 30,000 miles.

willexoIX

I did 30k fluid and filter changes and got 300k out of a stock 700 before I went into boost with the TC locked and took out the 3-4 and TC.

I run a small trans cooler, and wasn't easy on the trans. Now I'm on number 2 and so far so good.

willexoIX

IIRC the 700 didnt change designation to 4l60 till 93, though for all purposes it was indeed the same exact trans. 94 was when the 4l60e was started.

Arctic White 91 RS

389,500 miles on my stock 700R4, it was working fine when pulled for the 383 LS1/T56 swap. Drove the car on an 800 mile trip to Hawk's Motorsports.

This 700R sits in my garage as a back up for the other RS. Its never been rebuilt or has any repairs other than the leaking o-ring for speed sending unit.

1st fluid & filter change was at 165,000 miles and switched to Mobile 1 ATF. I was told my dozens of so called experts this would destroy the transmission and the fluid should be changed. My mechanic said it should be changed but NEVER flushed given the miles on the car. All changes were drop the pan. I also learned I had severely abused this transmission by going 165,000 miles without a fluid change. The new schedule was 50k fluid changes. When the car hit 300,000 miles, I realized I should take better care of the maintance and switch to 15,000 fluid changes - which was what the deal said was the correct interval back in 1990, this was the heavy duty use change interval IIRC my owners manual.

Trapped in a 5 hour taffic jam on I75 one sweltering summer, I watched 24 cars and trucks over heat and break down. My 375,xxx mile RS struggled. I even ran the heat on max to reduce thermal load on the cooling system the whole time. Just after the traffic jam cleared the RS was at 235 degrees and the transmission slipped for the first time since that very first fluid change. I pulled of the interstate ran the fans let the old girl cool off. Finished the remaining 350 miles of the 600 mile trip with out issue.

Despite the just done fluid change, I had another one done when I got home because the 1-2 shift felt a little different. A friend that owns a transmission shop suggested adding Red Lube Guard. The shift issue disappeared. His guess was the valve body got to hit in the traffic jam.

In anycase, I drove another 15,000 miles without any issues.

389,500 miles for a fairly well maintained stock 700R4. I even hauled it back from Hawk's because I suspect it can really go 500,000 with proper care and my other RS may needed it.

C1610

Old post, yes I know but still lots of great information here, I was just wondering if you got an answer about using the pressure tap for a temp gauge.