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Body rotisseries for restoration projects.

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Old 06-25-2002, 06:49 PM
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Body rotisseries for restoration projects.

Hey guys?
Anybody ever used one? I'm completely stripping down a 1985 fire bird and I'm going to have the body dipped to remove all paint and rust(very minimal). Anybody ever used a rotesserie for restoration? I've heard of using an over-head lift, but there too expensize,and all of the dirt would fall on my head. I need some way to get to the undercaraige easily. I'm building a custom gas tank and rearend cover. And I have to plum all new lines. Any body know where I can get one? thanks in advance.
Old 06-28-2002, 06:08 PM
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yeah, well. Looks like a posted a good one here. Does anyone here seriously restore or customize cars besides me?
Old 06-28-2002, 06:37 PM
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Most people dont have or use those. Seeing as how thirdgens are not desirable, rare, or old at this point in time, you got no replies.

Dont get a cheap one. It'll be hard to rotate the body and wont last. You really dont want to leave it out in the weather either, most of the ones I have seen will rust.
Old 06-29-2002, 07:19 PM
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The rotisseries were primarily designed for use on full frame cars. You will have to choose one that takes into consideration your car is the unibody design. In addition the doors are extremely long on these cars which complicates the issue.

If you have T-Tops you just added more problems. Way too much body flex. Some cars of the 60's that are now being restored in this manner have door jamb x-braces, especially the convertibles. They also use the rotisserie that is full length supported as opposed to the ones that mount on the front and rear bumper mounts.
Old 06-29-2002, 09:21 PM
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I have a rotisserie that I am using in the restoration of my '68 Hurst/Olds. The type I purchased rotates the car onto its side on curved rails, not around a center point at the front and rear. The car attaches either via the lugnuts, or via the frame, or to the body direct (as I'm doing) via a custom jig, and then you tip it onto its side and brace. This style may work much better for you than the true rotisseries, since you don't have a frame. It was also a lot cheaper. I can't remember the brand since I bought it about 10 years ago. You might check Hemmings Motor News and see if anything similar is available.

You might seriously want to consider the points Mike brought up about bracing, especially with t-tops. Very valid point.
Old 06-29-2002, 10:42 PM
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I havent dealt with it on thirdgens, but when you put an old Mustang (unibody) on a rotisserie, you had better x-brace the door jambs.

Those ones that attach to the lugnuts look pretty interesting but I never saw one firsthand.
Old 06-30-2002, 07:35 AM
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Here is the tilt type Blue is referring to:

<A HREF="http://www.accessiblesystems.com/">The Easy Tilter and Bottoms Up Models</A>

And an article I found interesting on building your own. I didn't write it. It's not me in the picture and I don't know safe this would be..... just found it kinda' interesting and saved the link.

<A HREF="http://users.cysource.com/ima454/rotator.htm">How to Build a $200 Rotisserie</A>
Old 06-30-2002, 12:53 PM
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thanks guys,
my car has a sunroof. Is that uncommon? I'm pretty sure that it's original,from the factory. I hadn't really thought about flex being a problem. And of course I would tie the body before mounting it.
Old 06-30-2002, 02:11 PM
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
It is not uncommon on these cars for the doors to bind and lock up just pulling onto a set of car ramps so you can imagine after you lift the whole car, turn it on it's side, what the body might go through. Unless done properly there is some pretty good potential for serious damage not counting the safety factors.
Old 06-30-2002, 02:28 PM
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Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: automatic
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Sunroofs were not a factory option that I know of. Yours must be after market.
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