I wish there was a picture to go with it
http://www.autotrader.com/findacar/v...&car_year=1987

biker

 

wow, if the car is for real it sounds really nice!! much better than an undersireable 305/auto car. Actually i wish i could find an 89 L98 with under 100 miles on it, id buy it.

 

Hella not worth it, just think about how fast ur 88 can be if you put 22500 bux into it, running in low 12s for sure. Up to you tho, just my thought.

 

Absolutely NOT worth it, think about what you would have to dump ino it just to get it running again! New gas tank, fuel filter, possibly new fuel lines, flow match the injectors, completly chassis dyno tune it, and then you have to deal with all the dried up seals, no way I would buy that car. My Firehawk w/1,3xx miles was pushing it for me, I only have to fix a vacuum leak, flow match the injectors, and chassis dyno tune it and it was good to go....

Now if you want it for a museum to just sit there and look pretty, then sure I guess it's worth it, like the 48 mile TTA that was on eBay.

 

very very low miles

however not worth it to me at least!!

 

92GTA is right on the money. Its always the old lady's cars who only ever get driven 5 miles, on sundays, that run the worse. Fuel injectors love to clog on cars that are barely driven. I am GM Technician and I rarely see injector problems on cars w/ over 100,000 miles on them. Its always the 1994 w/ 20,000 or something. I would rather have a newer car w/ lots of miles than an older car w/ few miles. That price is rediculous.

 

that price is just crazy!!!!

but that prob has only been turned on once every 6 months and maybe driven 50 miles in it's first year, and brought out one sun every 3 years after that.
biker

 

Not worth it? I guess that depends on why you want it. If you're buying a daily driver, then obviously you'd need your head examined, but for those of us that can appreciate an original, low mile car, it could definately be worth the money. A sub-100 mile IROC is definately an extremely rare car, and I would also say that it's very desirable to a lot of people.

Personally I'd pay $20k for it if I had the money and if I had a place to store it. I can't think of anything better than having a museum-quality unrestored original IROC to go look at whenever I wanted to.

In terms of "problems" with a 93 mile car vs a 1300 mile car, I doubt that you'd find any. Neither has seen nearly enough miles to matter and would both encounter the same type of problems.

 

I guess thats where you and I differ. I couldn't pay 20K for a car "to look at". For me, cars were meant to be driven. Granted, if I had a low mileage, untouched car like that, I surely woudn't drive it like I do my '87 T/A, but I wouldn't just let it sit up to look at.

 

I collected baseball cards as a kid. Instead of sticking them in my bike spokes, I put the nice ones in plastic holders to preserve them. I took great pride in my baseball card collection. I guess I still have a little bit of that mentality in me. To me an IROC is as much a work of art as it is a car, and I can enjoy one just as much simply from owning it as I can from driving it, especially when I've already got an IROC that can outperform a stock one in every way.

 

Jesus Criest did all of you win the lautory or however its spelled, if your even considering buying that car you must have more money than the majority of people here so buy it be my guest. But if your gonna spend 20k just to look at a Camaro you need to have ur head examined.

 

goodness!
First year L98 and T-tops, too. I still wouldn't buy it even if I could afford it. How could you ever put any more miles on a 93 mile car like that??
Now a '93 mile '92 Z28 L98 with heritage pkg..I'd buy that if I had the $$ even if I just let it sit to look at

 

It's amazing how much more money you can earn in this world when you know the proper spelling of "lottery".

People spend $200k on a home, when a $100k home keeps you just as dry. Why? Because they like it. Just because you're too narrow minded to understand why I would like an unrestored original mint IROC doesn't mean I need my head examined. It simply means that I have a different appreciation for cars than you.

 

Some people just don't understand.



Jim, I'm glad someone else gets it.

 

Hey...Rural hall isn't to far from me.

I'm gonna call the guy tomarrow and see if I can't go look at it and maybe take some pictures.

 

I would have to agree with all of you to a point. The IROC is a piece of art and seeing one with low miles/unrestored would be a thrill...but on the other hand I think that cars are ment to be enjoyed...even if that means just driving it on Sundays and DRIVING IT HARD!.

Just think how you would miss out if you had this 180 something mile IROC stored and one day you passaway *** forbid. You can't take the car with you and your spouse/relatives would inherit the car and sell it off to the first bidder just to get rid of it. This other guy would reap the rewards of your ultra low mileage car! all the while you were being **** about keeping the museum piece in perfect condition. Nah...not for me. You can take care of a car and still rack up the miles and have the car look great and run great w/o the ultra **** stuff.

 

If I had the money I would have dozens of low mileage cars and bikes sitting in a warehouse somewhere. I don't have the money so all I have is my two toys....
but I understand the reasoning behind having a low mile car.
heck have two, the tricked out 383 IROC running 11s and the low mile car just to look at....
biker

 

I'd never have a garage queen as my only sports car. It would definately be in addition to 1 or more drivers. I agree that cars were meant to be driven, and that's why I have my IROC. But it sure would be nice to have my modified IROC to drive around in, and still have a perfect original in the garage.

 

Now I like that idea

 

Lol thats hittin below the belt, i said I didnt know how to spell it. And with your house example, I said if you even are thinking about spending 20k on a car that you wont be driving, then go ahead, because you probably have the money. I do not have money to waste/spend on something like that. It would be nice to just have one sitting around. But id rather buy a brand new z28 for 2k more and drive that.

 

I talked to the guy today.

Unfortunatley, there has been a death in the family, and he is very busy, so naturaly I didn't pick his brain for details. My sympathies go out to his family.

He did say that come the first of the year, he'd be happy to show me the car, and let me take pictures.....even though I would certainly not be buying.

 

I would definately appreciate having a copy of all the pics you take if you're willing to share them. I'm establishing a collection of low-mile IROC pics and info that I plan to use as a historical "reference" on the IROC Homepage sometime in the future. I'd be especially interrested in underbody, engine and interior pics.

 

As far as I'm concerned, no problem. I plan to take a memory stik worth of pics...good res.

I'm not sure if I'll be able to get underbody pics.....but of course, I'd do my best.

The guy seemed friendly...all things considered, but we'll see when I call him in a few weeks. I don't want to "bother" him too much...but us "IROC" guys seem to bond pretty quickly!!!

 

To all those who claim that a low mileage car would need too much work to make it road worthy or even to make it run, I have to ask you; is this assumption based from your own experiences, or just what your dad told you at the dinner table? I have heard this old wives tale around this and other boards for some time now, and I must say that based on my experiences of owning a low mileage car (2,200 mile '85 IROC) , the myth is just that, a myth. The only problems I had when I first got that car was the terminals on the inside of the distributor cap had corroded, and the rear main seal leaked at a rate of about two drops per month. I replaced the cap, and the two drops per month was something I could live with. I'm not saying it's impossible for an old car's rubber to dry out and crack, but it's got to be older than the car being discussed here. The advances made in materials in the past 15 - 25 years has increased shelf life way beyond anything that was available in the mid-seventies and earlier.

All this crap about cars being meant to drive and that it's stupid to have a car just to look at sounds like envy to me. I interpret such comments like this; "I want it really bad, but I don't have the resources available to me, so I'll just bash it and call it stupid".

 

My Firehawk is proof. It had 1,330 miles when I bought it and the fuel injection/ignition system had to be gone through and the injectors removed and flow matched and it has some other small operating problems. It also needed to be dyno tuned. No leaks though.

I'm just saying that it's not going to need allot of work but it will need more than a car with say 30K that has been well mantained...

 

If I had the money, that car would be mine. I would have to drive it a few times a year, though.

 

As much as I love IROCs, I don't know if one is worth 20k...not yet anyways. Sooner or later, for sure...but I'd rather pay 13k and get a 3-4,000 mile one...they exist, and for a 7k difference?? I'd say the higher mileage one is a far better buy...

 

the whole thing about seals / hoses drying out USED to be true, but not realy anymore. For about the last 20 - 25 years auto manufacturers have used semi synthetic rubber in things like hoses and tyres, and while this does not last indefinately, it lasts much longer than pure rubber.

How well would this camaro hold up? depends how you drive it. Should be a muesum piece, simply due to having the origional oil, air, coolant, tyres etc in it. thats something that use would ruin.

There was a 76 400 T/A for sale in one of the English mags a while ago with 64 miles on it, it even had the origional paper over mats in it.

It would be madness to use either of these cars, they should be preserved, and maybe run gently for a few miles on private land (away from joe public hitting it, how p***ed would you be if you got rammed at the lights?) a couple of times a year.

Imagine 50 years from now, a 65 year old car with a couple of hundred miles on it...........

 

I did this to my 2,200 mile IROC too, then when I got it all back together it didn't run any better. The before and after info provided by TPIS even showed that the injectors weren't that bad to begin with. Then I looked inside the dist. cap and bingo... aluminum oxide had taken over the terminals of the el-cheapo factory cap. Yet again I learned the valuable lesson of starting with the easy (and cheap) stuff first.

 

Whether you're willing to pay that really has no impact on what the car is actually worth. I too would rather pay $7k less for one in the 3-4k mile range, but that doesn't change the fact that one with 93 miles is going to fetch substantially more than a 4k mile car.

 

It depends...I don't think it would be "substantially" more...just have to wait and see what it goes for, and that will tell

 

In response to the low-mileaged repair issue...

My IROC was bought in 2000 with 6300 miles on it. It needed a new battery, AC recharge with R12 ($$), rear main seal and yoke needed replacing, valve seals are worn and not fixed yet, auto dimming rear view mirror needed rework, EGR and EGR solenoid needed replacing at seperate times, fuel pump relay was corroded, MAF relay was shot, all 4 tires were dry rotted and the hood and trunk struts were dead. The car looked mint, but all of these little problems became annoying as they kept popping up.

I think it also depends on where/how the car is stored. My car was stored in a non temperature controlled pole barn/shed in Minnesota. The ambient air temperature in this garage more than likely dipped into the teens during the winter and probably into the 80's in the summer. These temp extremes aren't good on the rubbers and seals without proper use lubrication. A car stored in a southern climate wouldn't have to worry about the seal shrinking due to cold temps and cracking because of the sway in temps. It also depends on how much moisture is in the air in the storage unit. Too much moisture can cause some problems, while too dry will cause rubber and seals to crack. There are too many variables to say, but rule of thumb is, too low a mileage, the better chance there is for problems.

 

I think a car that has a consistent history showing 3000 miles per year would be ideal, at 106 000 miles my car is almost problem free (despite the rad shi***g its guts out on sunday) and there is no major ware in anything.

Look for those nice one lady owner 50 000 mile cars, and enjoy.

Anyone in the UK looking for a nice low milage (50 - 60K i think) trans am GTA (88 i think) with digital dash leather and 350, Raspbery met. paint, pm me and i'll pass on the message I think its about £4500 in bedford area.

 

In terms of cars sitting and suffering from dried out seals etc. -- I'd have to say it is true. My 83 Camaro sat on and off for 3 1/2 years while I did an engine rebuild and swap. I am now suffering from dried out tranny seals. It may be a hit and miss deal depending on the climate and how well it was stored.