ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I thought your handle looked familiar... you're the guy who spotted this car for me! I OWE YOU, MAN!

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

hahaha well you did say you rebuild motors right?......hahaha JK

i completely forgot i ever posted that(i never got emails telling me people were replying) small world i guess, haha, i will be following this thread as you continue your adventure, and glad i could help

im starting mine on my RS(wife gave me 1500 of our taxes to play with) so its going to get body work by my dad and i, paint by a friend and hopefully either a rebuild on the 305 or a 350 put in(depends on just how much money i have left) lol

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

OK, after a week at work that I'd just as soon forget, I got up early to play with the GTA. We got the nasty blizzard that was promised to us last night, and it was damn cold when I got up.

I fired up my kerosene jet heater, and it took 2 hours to get the garage anywhere near comfortable. After getting the woodstove nice and toasty, and a hearty breakfast, I headed out to begin the job.

If I had a dollar for every spark plug I've changed in my life, I could retire on an island somewhere. The first time I looked at this engine in this car, I realized that I was in for oodles of fun. The car did not disappoint. The only way to change all but 2 of the plugs was from underneath, and the AIR lines (which all look brand new) and the A/C don't help.

During the course of changing the plugs, I discovered that the O2 sensor's signal wire had been chewed through, so I took a break from the great time I was having with the plugs to repair it. I soldered in a small length of wire to make it easier to repair, and used heat shrink tubing as insulation.

I also noticed another sensor on the passenger side of the engine whose pigtail connector was broken. This one is right next to or below #6 spark plug. I am not sure what it is, but I suppose that will need to be repaired.

I had the most fun of all with #2, which happened to be the last one I changed. Even with a 1/4" ratchet, there was practically no room to work, but I got it done.

Now for the test. This meant opening the garage door. In a blizzard. Oh, well.

IT'S ALIVE! She started right up, and chugged for about 5 seconds, then smoothed right out. Some bits of rust flew out of the exhaust, but it was nice and mellow and fairly quiet. I did get a SERVICE ENGINE SOON light, which I will TS next time I go out there.

No smoke, no knocks, and she's smooth and tight. She stops instantly when the key is turned off, and starts right back up.

By this time, my garage felt like the Alaskan tundra, and it was lunch time. So, I shut her down, and closed the garage door.

Since we are snowed in, my wife and kids want to do some family time stuff, so I'll knock off for today. Tomorrow I'll read the trouble codes and finish hooking up the steering column.

If anyone knows which sensor it is that needs a new pigtail connector, please let me know.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

I could be wrong but the only sensor i remember being by # 6 on my car is actually between 6 and 8 and the dipstick is right there with it, that sensor is your fan switch that grounds your fan when the engine is hot enough, it should have a single wire to it, hope that helps, not sure though so if anybody else know better correct me please

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

I remember when I changed the plugs in my 91 trans am convertible back in August. I must've been lucky because it wasn't all that bad, the worst one was the one the most far back on the driver's side... or next to last but it still took a little while. It's nice to see you got your car running. Now when did you say was the last time it was on the road? And out of curiosity, how old are the fuel injectors?

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, that is where it is... haven't done any research yet, but I seem to remember reading that somewhere.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, as I said, the biggest problem was getting at the plugs. I had to do a couple of them by groping around, and not actually seeing what I was doing. My engine has an AIR pump, and if those lines had not been present, it would have been a lot easier.

I was told by the PO that the car had not been running in 3 years, and DMV told me it had not been registered in 10 years. It has 138K miles on it. For all I know, fuel injectors are original. They seem to last forever if you treat them right.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

then yup its your fan switch, should be an easy fix for ya

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

yeah, it's amazing... I learned from reading a post in a different thread that Advance actually has that pigtail in stock. Just for grins, I looked up the sensor, too... it's only 8 bucks, and the plastic is busted off mine... so I think I'll replace both.

Going out there now to play some more.

Tim

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

dang, i didnt even think of looking for the pig tail, gonna go check it out now as mine is busted as well lol

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

OK I am now officially in a groove with this car. I got my steering column secured, and the worst part of my day was learning that the replacement column's wiper switch is not compatible with existing wiring. That burns me a little, since I gave the car's original perfectly good switch to my son for his car before I decided to keep this one.

Oh, well... I think I can get away with re-pinning using my son's old connector... but I need some good wiring diagrams. Worst case, I buy a new wiper switch (I'd rather not).

Other than that, I had a great day. I jumped the ALDL, and got my trouble code: 33 (MAF sensor circuit). After about 10 minutes of tracing wires with the help of a schematic from my Haynes manual, I discovered the problem: whilst troubleshooting the fuel pump problem, I had to disconnect a couple of relays as I searched for the fuel pump relay. I had just never bothered to re-connect the MAF relay.

She now runs normally with no SERVICE ENGINE SOON light. I also found another chewed-through wire, this one was the high blower motor relay. I repaired that, and it looks as if the rest of the harness is intact. No doubt I'll get another surprise or two at some point.

Now that the column is fully installed and secured, I can sit in the driver's seat and play. The blower works normally now, and the engine purrs like a kitten. I get 45-50 psi of oil pressure at idle, and 13.5-14V charging. The trans goes into all gears smoothly (at idle, with my foot on the brake, and all four wheels off the ground).

My next assignments: try to re-pin the wiper switch, and go through the brakes. As I explained to the wife: now that I know it will go, I have to make damn sure that she'll stop. I may have at least one frozen caliper (4-wheel discs), so this could be something of an adventure. Stay tuned.

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

Nice work man. Good job saving another GTA!

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

OK it looks like the wire colors are all the same... so I went ahead and re-pinned the connector using the plug off my son's old wiper switch.

All went smoothly, until I turned the wipers on. Forgot to check to make sure that wiper blades were installed... actually, the blades are there, but after sitting for so long, the rubber part was long gone... SCREEEEECH! Like fingernails on a blackboard... but at least no damage done. I'll be buying wiper blades tomorrow.

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

HAHA just too excited hey. Once again good job!

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

I have an AIR pump too... damn hippies and their emissions crap.
And I was just curious about the fuel injectors since my car was sitting for about a year before I bought it (same engine, 305 TPI) and the injectors were dying when I bought it. It ran when I got it at first (last august), gave some weird starting problems when I was looking at it when the PO still had it, but I didn't think much of it and bought it anyway. Few days after bringing it home on a trailer to CT (from New Hampshire), the engine starts running like crap if at all. Mechanic diagnosed it as bad injectors and 500 bucks later (parts, labor, and towing) she runs like a charm.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Went to church... came home and found a coupon in the mailbox from Advance for $20 off on a $100 purchase. Seems like I needs to do me some shoppin'...

My wife said, "Oh, those must be your 'frequent flyer miles'..."

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

guess they dont like me as much, lol ive never gotten a coupon from them, and i know ive spent a good $800 there since i bought my camaro, lol not to mention parts for my wifes old Grand am and odd little accessories for the new cobalt lol

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

The snow storm slowed us down a bit, but I managed to get some work in on the "Firechicken". It appears that both rear calipers are working normally, and the pads are still pretty thick. The fronts are a different story... both frozen, as I had figured judging from how stiff the brake pedal was.

I took my "frequent flyer" coupon into Advance this morning and bought some "chicken parts". They did indeed have the radiator fan switch and pigtail, but both were out of stock and had to be ordered. No problem. I picked up two front calipers, new brake hoses, and a set of ceramic disc pads. I have been reading about them; apparently, they last a long time without eating up your rotors, and they don't make all that black dust that is always making the wheels dirty.

The hardest part of the job was getting the old calipers off, and it wasn't really too bad. Got the new ones in, and with my son's help, got them bled. I ran the engine for several minutes with the car up in the air. I put her in gear, and let the wheels turn, then applied the brakes. The rear brakes stopped the wheels without much effort, so I think she's OK for a test ride.

Next up: I never replaced the wiper blades, so I'll need to do that, and then I'll finish the access hole cover. I'll give details on the access hole job in a future post. Also, the oil is pretty dirty considering the engine has less than an hour's total running time since it was changed. I'll pick up some oil and a filter and change it again.

After that, tires are next on the list. Still shopping for those... looking around for a good price on something decent for everyday use. Once that's done, it will be time for a little road test.

3.1EyeCandy

iTrader: (3)

You may consider doing a seafoam treatment if you're going to change the oil right away anyway. Congrats on rescuing a GTA and being an involved Dad.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

I'm happy to hear about the progress with your car. Kinda weird how you guys got more snow than up here in CT haha. But be careful with the salty roads when you're test driving your GTA considering your recent snow storm, I'm not sure how Virginia is with its salting but it would be a shame to see that car get eaten up by rust brought on by the salt. Good luck!

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

to keep your salt free, you wash your KARR every Sunday or coat the underbody with Line-x truck bed liner

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

The snow, and unusually brisk business (thank you, things were a little rough there for a while) have kept me from doing much to the car... and I am so close to Happy Motoring...

I am waiting delivery on a can of Rust Bullet and some PEM nuts... also shopping around for tires. I figured I might as well make my fuel pump access cover.

The hole that I made measures 6" wide and 11" from top to bottom, with radiused corners. So I cut a piece of sheet metal 8 1/4" x 13 1/4" for my cover. (see pics). Rather than spend money to buy sheet metal, as one who likes to find new uses for old things, and never throws anything away, I took a side cover from an old HP computer tower to use as my 'stock'. (I do computer repairs, and have collected lots of old junk... I chose this particular cover because it is nice and heavy, and the 'handle' recess adds to its rigidity).

I radiused the corners, and then scribed a line 1/2" in from the edge. Then I marked off screw holes about 1 3/4" apart, and drilled them through on my drill press.

My plan is to slip a piece of 1/4" plywood under the hole, mark the holes using the cover in place as a template, and then drill corresponding holes in the cargo floor. The plywood will protect my fuel tank from 'surprises'. Then I will enlarge the holes and press in the PEM nuts when they arrive.

I purchased some neoprene-impregnated bulk gasket material at Advance, which I will use to make a gasket. Then I will paint everything to match the body color, and install using 10-32 machine screws.

Awesome-X

Looks like that should work pretty well. I can't wait to see the finished product for your access door. As for the wiper switch was that hard to do? My sprayer button is completely broken...

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, all I did was re-pin the connector so I wouldn't have to replace the switch... saving labor and money.

The replacement of the switch is a project. You have to pull the steering wheel and the turn signal switch, and remove the housing to get at the switch. Reassembly is a bear -- lots of stuff you have to get just right, and you need to use a tool to compress everything to get the stuff just under the steering wheel back in. I made one using a big fat washer and a short length of 3/4" pipe under the steering wheel nut. It can be a frustrating job. The first time I did it I had to take it back apart 3 times before I got it all right.

Today I replaced the radiator fan switch and pigtail. Lots of fun taking a bath in ice-cold coolant, as it can only be accessed from underneath. Got it done, though.

89rser

sounds great man keep it up and youl be finished with number 2 and starting on number 3 before long.....lol....i wish i had a job that would let me do this to my 89 RS and my 89 escort GT....

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

We had a great weekend here in SW VA... temps in the 50's, and no rain...

My PEM nuts and the Rust Bullet arrived this past week, so I got busy working on my access cover. The PEM nuts are supposed to be set in a similar fashion to rivets, but I don't have the tool. So I used a pair of vise grips and a nut over the hole, and they pressed in nicely.

I picked up a rattle can of Arctic White, and sprayed the access cover and around the hole that I cut. After it dries, I'll post pix and reassemble. I also finally broke down and bought a pair of hatch lift cylinders and installed those.

I ran the engine today for a much longer period than I have in the past, and she overheated. The fans never came on. A quick check revealed that there was no fan power to the relay... because the fusible link off the battery was yet another 'chewing' victim. I got that repaired, and also realized that the temp gauge was not reading. TGO to the rescue... I may never have found the sender on my own, but a quick check on this board and I located the sender, which had been disconnected. I plugged the wire back in, and started the car.

She ran too hot, and both fans came on. So I shut her down, and noted that the top hose was not very warm, and neither was the heat inside the car. I reckon I have to replace the thermostat.

This past week I ordered a set of Falken ZE 912's, after much debate and lots of reading here and elsewhere. They should come on Tuesday, and I'll get them mounted. In the meantime, I'll pick up the 'stat and finish up the access cover job.

Stangski09

iTrader: (10)

Had to do that with mine too. Youre probably right about the thermostat. When I opened mine up in the summer, I had no thermostat... =(

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

As promised, here are the pix of the fuel pump access cover. I think it came out well enough for something that will be covered by a carpet.

in the second pic, you will see the PEM nuts after I pressed them into the holes.

All in all, it took a little time and effort, so I didn't really economize on time, but if this car ever needs a fuel pump again, I'll be able to do the whole job in a few minutes.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

thats gotta be the cleanest access panel ive seen done, good work

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

My next task was to replace the thermostat. Naturally, what was a five minute job 30 years ago was a little tricky because the TPI throttle body is in the way, but I managed OK.

Imagine my surprise to see that the entire thermostat housing was clogged full of salt crystals. No wonder she overheated! The thermostat itself was encased, and there was more in the top hose.

I washed out the hose and the housing in a slop sink, and then put it all back together with the new thermostat. Problem solved. She now runs up to about 220, the first fan kicks in, and it pushes her back down to around 200.

I had my new Falken 912s mounted and balanced over the week. On my way to the shop, I hit a deer with my truck... as it happens, the place that mounted the tires for me is the best body shop I've ever dealt with. He's also one of my advertising clients. So I got the estimate while I was there... $2200. Fortunately, I have comprehensive insurance that covers deer strikes... but there is still that nasty $500 deductible.

Why don't I just fix it myself? Because this truck (at the moment, anyway) is my daily driver, and the parts would cost more than the $500 deductible. So screw it, Pete will have this thing looking shiny and new in a couple of days.

So I got the tires on the car, and everything is all set for my test drive... just have to fill up the jerry can so I don't run out of gas... keep your fingers crossed. I'll post my report later.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Thanks. I have a tendency to be a bit fussy, so that's one reason why I didn't really save time. But I did save myself a lot of nasty, uncomfortable work... and next time, it'll be a breeze.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

how well does that access panel seal up do you smell any fumes in the cabin?

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

It seals up pretty well. I used neoprene impregnated material to make a gasket. I have not driven the car yet (later today) so I can't be 100% sure. If any leaks should develop, I was planning to hit the whole thing with some silicone.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

ROAD TEST RESULTS:

I poured another 6 gallons of fuel into the tank, started her up, and rolled her out of the garage under her own power. Awesome.

She seemed just a bit balky at first, but I attribute that mostly to lack of use. After a few seconds running, she pulled right up a hill nice and smoothly. After that, the engine just purred. I noticed a little bit of play in the steering, so she'll be jacked up again so I can troubleshoot that. Other than that, she felt good, both in ride and handling.

The downer happened when I tried to get up to cruising speed. Once it shifts into high gear, there is nothing. The engine revs freely. Shift back into 2nd, and she is smooth and tight. Put her back into drive, and it's like being in neutral. 700R4 experts, does this tell you anything? Naturally, this car is not going on the road until this problem is cured. I'll research the boards, but any hints would be appreciated.

If the transmission can be saved easily, I'm up for that. Otherwise, I'll go ahead with the T5 swap.

Aloha for now.

L695speed

You mean there is no power, or is there power but no acceleration? If its the former, I had that problem when I put my car in fifth when I first got it running, turned out the vac lines were not all sorted out, and there was a vac leak. However, there may have been an issue inside my carb as well because when I rebuilt it I discovered that it looked like a bomb went off inside the carb.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

Well he said the engine revs freely and its as if the car is in neutral.

L695speed

Oops I just went back and checked, not sure how I missed that part. Yea its something in the trans.

hardon85

I'm no 700r4 expert but it sounds eerily similar to what I have seen when other auto transmissions have gone south on me. It sounds like overdrive is out of your trans so you have a couple of options you could just drive with the car in 3rd gear or have the trans rebuilt or just go ahead with the t-5 swap. If it were me I would just drive with it in 3rd gear until you either really trash the trans or are ready to do the t-5 swap. I guess if you are gonna go ahead with the t-5 swap anyway I would just do it and not pour any money into your existing trans. Just my opinion let us know what you do.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, just to be clear: I don't have 3rd gear or OD. It runs perfectly in reverse, 1st, and 2nd. Once it shifts into 3rd, it feels like it will grab momentarily, and then nothing, it's like being in neutral.

From what I have read on the 700R4, I believe that my 3-4 clutch pack is shot. Therefore, it looks like swap time. Now I have to scramble to get what I need: a flywheel, a shifter, and a VSS. I have everything else, except the console shifter plate.

The other small problem that I have is that I promised my wife that as soon as this car was drivable, I would get it out of the garage and then clean the garage (2-car) so that she could park inside again. I guess that will have to come first. In the meantime, anyone that can point me to the parts I need, I'd appreciate it.

L695speed

If it is that bad then yea I would agree and go forward with the swap. Good luck getting the shift plate. I've yet to come across one. If it wasn't for setting up the pedals and such frankly a trans swap is not too bad as far as doing the flywheel, and clutch and trans in. Just gotta take the whole interior apart....well the console anyway.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I have been eagerly collecting parts, but am not anxious to do the swap now, because I have so much else on my plate. I'm still debating whether or not to just park the car for now. I'll probably go ahead, but I definitely have to get Mama's car back in the garage first.

I'm gonna give ted gerlach in NJ a try for the shifter plate... worst case scenario, I'll fabricate one.

hardon85

well just tell the wife you are just about done just kidding. But I'm sure you have checked ebay and the classified section here if not I would look there. I did read someone did a trans swap (auto to manual) in one day but it was an all day project but I couldn't say if that was possible or not but good luck with whatever you do. And hopefully it won't be as bad as it sounds.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I'm not going to worry too much about the plate until after the rest of the job is done.

My biggest issue at the moment is that my T5 doesn't have a VSS. From what I've read here, the VSS in the auto trans won't fit. What amazes me is that everywhere I go to try and buy one, they only list one part, and don't ask if you have manual or auto. That leaves me wondering... anyone know what's up with that?

Awesome-X

Whoa! That is a TON of salt! I've never seen anything like that..

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Yeah... blew my mind as well.

I took the input shaft off my T5 (it was bent, I knew that going in) and found the roller bearings beaten all to hell. I'm thinking I'll be tearing it down and rebuilding, which was my original plan.

I had considered just replacing the input shaft (I got a new one with the trans) since I wasn't doing a restoration... but after seeing this, I think I'll bite the bullet.

Naturally, this leads me to consider just swapping in a used automatic for the time being, if I can get one cheaply enough. I'm trying to balance getting the car on the road as cheaply as possible against spending money once as opposed to twice.

Mark in Maine

Nice work, Tim - that fuel pump access plate is a tidy bit of fabrication. Like Awesome-X said, I've never seen anything like those crystals in the 'stat housing, either - any ideas about how they formed?

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

The 'stat housing is aluminum, and I've seen small amounts of similar stuff in other aluminum parts that came in contact with ethylene glycol, so I assume it is a chemical reaction between the aluminum and the anti-freeze.

I guess those crystals had plenty of time to grow with the car sitting for 3+ years without running.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

do you have any fumes coming from access panel in the floor?

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

No fumes at all.

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

awesome you are the first guy to have done that mod right good luck with the rest your build