KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

let me see now i drive my 1983 t/a daytona 500 every day in new england climate

I would say 9 months and still going strong. the radio was sitting in my dungeon for two years.

that is a red LED that dims with the stock dimmer and custom Knight Rider Font for the KNIGHT 2000 lettering

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, I'm not a big fan of shotgun troubleshooting, but here goes:

For the last couple of days, the car has run so well that I figured it might be OK... then I got another SES light. The paper clip trick keeps yielding a code 44, lean fuel mixture/02 sensor.

Now the car runs crappy at times, even when the engine is cold, which I assume to be open loop mode, which I understand does not use the 02 sensor. However, I did note that the recommended replacement interval was 30K miles, and it was only 20 bucks, so I bought one. I'll try to install it tomorrow at lunch time and we'll see if that helps any.

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

find the procedure to test your coolant temp sensor thats on the front of your intake. Those cause some weird problems

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

Oh nice, and you drive your 83 daily? Wow.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I've seen that mentioned in at least one other thread. That sounds like a good idea.

92 CaMaRo Rs

Read both restoration, enjoyed the pics and stories very much. I am 21 now been doin mechanic since i was 16. My dad was never into it or jus didnt wanna do it, Id love to of had his help on my drag car.Tell ur son hes lucky and has a great father.


Keep up good work.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Thanks. I appreciate the kind words. Of course, you know what you have to do? When you have a son/daughter of your own...

92 CaMaRo Rs

Deffinatly, i hope my son will be into mechanics and drag racing. Id love to do a father son project. Many years to go tho =p

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

OK, I changed my 02 sensor today, mainly because I don't know how long the old one was in there, and there is a recommended replacement every 30K miles. It's also a snap on this car. It took me all of about 5 minutes (yeah, the crabby old guy with arthritis did the job quickly and without complaining).

Naturally, it did not improve things, but at least I know I have a fresh one in there and it was inexpensive and easy to replace. The one I took out doesn't look bad. It has a light coating of a silver/gray deposit. Anyone have a diagnostic opinion?

Anyway, I had been avoiding the IAC up until now, but since that is a known trouble spot, I think I need to give it some attention. I pulled the electrical connector with the engine running (and stumbling), and there was no change in how the engine ran.

I am going to leave the car alone until the weekend... or maybe longer (this weekend is the local wine festival, and the radio station is broadcasting live). Naturally, I'm still going to drive it in the meantime.

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

Figures! The one weekend where there is actually something going on at home, I have to go out of town lol

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Since I don't want to just throw parts at my problems, it occurred to me to get ALDL software... I have downloaded WinALDL and TunerPro (which I think I prefer) and ordered a USB cable for it.

Since I have three of these cars, I'm sure I will save lots of time, trouble, and money... once I learn how to use the program. The cable is due to arrive in my mailbox this afternoon.

In the meantime, I have noticed that since I changed the 02 sensor, the car seems to stumble only when cold... once at operating temp, it appears to run a lot better. Also, I have not seen the SES light recently.

This leads me to suspect that my CTS might indeed be bad... but I am waiting for the cable to arrive so I can do some detective work.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

OK, the cable came today, and after a couple of false starts, I managed to figure out how to use TunerPro and the ALDL cable.

I wasn't shocked by the results. I cleared the codes, and let the car sit. Then later, I went out and hooked everything up. I got a good data connection, and then started the engine.

These are the notable readings that I got, with the car running, in real time:

• coolant temp: -39.99*C
• Startup coolant temp: 227.93*C
• BLM 158
• INT 160
• Code 33 MAF high
• Code 44 02 sensor low

Obviously, my coolant temp sensor is lying... so I will replace that... and of course, on the way home, my top radiator hose developed a pinhole. I have a semi-working weekend ahead of me, but I think I can manage those repairs at some point.

Anyone with knowledge of the parameters that I have posted here, feel free to comment.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

The replacement GPS antenna did the trick. I got 5 satellites within 30 sec.

I swapped out the CTS and the top hose, but ran short of coolant... I'll get some more tomorrow and see what we have.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

OK things have gone from bad to worse.

The car seemed to run better after I replaced the CTS, but still was balky when cold, and did not idle steadily all the time. She still sometimes bucks at low speeds.

I reconnected the laptop to the ALDL, and TunerPro is giving me the exact same error readings that I got before. Since I am new to this, I am not sure if I maybe did something wrong, like maybe I am not using the diagnostic software right... or could I possibly have a flaky ECM? I posted a request for assistance in Gen/Tech, TPI, and DFI/ECM boards, and I am waiting for someone to hopefully give me some guidance.

To make matters worse, I suddenly got a loud banging noise at about 50 mph in 5th gear. At first, I thought it was a rod bearing, but it didn't sound exactly like a bearing knock. Plus, I have awesome oil pressure, and the car doesn't come close to running hot.

I limped the car home, and noticed that when I step on the clutch with the car sitting still, I can rev the engine all I want to with no noise. The minute I release the pedal, the noise comes back.

After fooling with it for a bit, I determined that the noise is in fact coming from the transmission. I can only guess what that means, but the weird thing is that it shifts through all gears. In 4th, which is just locking the input to the mainshaft, the noise goes away, so I guess it has something to do with the cluster gear, and yet I can go through all gears, albeit with lots of banging.

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

Well that sucks! Damn!

FWIW I've seen a few cases of the PROM's acting flaky. May be able to get my hands on a spare if you want to try.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I may want to try that... but I want to make sure that I am doing this whole TunerPro thing right first.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, of course, the whole engine issue is a moot point until I get the tranny straightened out. I strongly suspect a busted tooth on the cluster gear, and who knows what else. I'll need time to tear it down and decide whether it's worth fixing.

So, in the meantime, I decided to try to find a good used tranny to just swap right in. I found nothing locally, but did see several on this board and elsewhere.

In order to get the one that I wanted, I had to pop for the whole swap package minus the pedals.

The guy gave me a good deal, though... so I went for it. It will probably ship later this week, and I expect I'll get it next week some time. I figure that either I got a head start on a T5 swap for "Nellie" (of course, that would also mean a V8 swap), or I got spares that I can either keep or sell off.

Yeah, ya gotta be in this game for the love of the car; that's for sure.

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

any update with your transmission? Did you get the hang of your aldl software?

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, the guy who sold me the replacement trans (mind you, this was in the name of saving time) still hasn't shipped it yet. I'm going to give him a little more time before I ask for my money back.

As it happens, my son blew a head gasket in his 87 bird. He developed a coolant leak, and instead of fixing it, he just kept topping it off. I warned him, but he was "too busy". Naturally, old Dad had to rescue him from Vinton one night, and I damn near got run over trying to push his car off the road. So we have been busy with the repairs (it's almost done).

Needless to say, except for moving it out of the garage so that we could work on Alex's car, I haven't driven the GTA since the day the trans started making all that noise. I am still not sure what is the deal with the TunerPro, and have not gotten any responses to my queries on the TPI board.

martin13

i have an 88 camaro5.0 tbi with 91k miles on it that i bought for $2000 was thata good deal?

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I guess it depends in part on how much you like the car. If the body is clean and it runs well, that seems like a fair price to me. TBI is not as popular as TPI, but if you like the car and it makes you happy...

martin13

thanks for the reply ya the body is pretty clean with a new paint job and a loud flowmaster exhaust the engine sounds pretty clean to

martin13

i am also having the engine rebuilt to put in stronger parts higher lift, rebuilt headers and 2 double chains

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

In that case, I think you did just fine.

martin13

cool

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, after six weeks, I finally got my T5 swap parts... or most of them, anyway. Since I only really needed the trans, I was able to swap it out yesterday. It works very well, and is quieter than the other one. It was quite refreshing to do a job like this in just a few hours with no major problems.

I haven't opened the old tranny up yet, but I can feel the problem when I turn the input shaft by hand.

In the meantime, I drove the car, and now it has a slight vibration at midrange speeds. I'm going to pull the driveshaft today and change the u-joints.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Did you get your CTS issue straight? The most likely cause of your extreme temp readings is a bad connector. When it opens the ECM sees 'cold' when it shorts the ECM sees 'full hot'. Examine the pigtail. A replacement can be found in the electrical stuff section of most parts stores.

I'd advise against changing the factory u-joints out unless there's noticeable play. They're pretty sturdy pieces. If your car sat for a month or so while waiting to swap the trans it could just be tires that are now used to sitting in one spot. Will probably work itself out in time. When mine develops a slight vibration it's telling me that it's time to rotate the tires.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Hmmm... that's interesting. I hadn't noticed a problem with the u-joints when I dropped the shaft, but I thought I felt a slight 'clunk' once or twice when driving in reverse.

I am going to examine the driveshaft, and see what happens.

No, I didn't resolve the other issue. In fact, you are the first to post with any type of suggestion. I'll take a look at the pigtail.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

UPDATE:

I decided to take a peek at the CTS pigtail before jacking the car up and inspecting u-joints.

The pigtail looks fine, as I thought it had when I changed the sensor. I wondered if maybe further back somewhere in the harness, one of the rodents that had infested this car had chewed a wire that escaped my notice.

In the course of doing so, I spotted a vacuum line that had come loose from the FPR, and another nipple with no vacuum hose attached. I was not able to find a loose vacuum hose, so for now, I capped it.

I took the car for a drive, and immediately noticed the difference. She idles nice and smooth now, and no more bucking at low speed. I clocked around 10 miles this way, and so far, no problems.

I am wondering if maybe I don't have the right data profile in my TunerPro, because I got no codes for the CTS from the ECM at all. In any case, I cleared all codes and now I will see what happens.

I also swapped out the circuit board in my windshield wiper motor, because I had no intermittent wipers. I had a spare wiper motor that I swapped the board out of, and now the wipers work as advertised, although only when the engine is running. With the key "ON" and the engine off, I guess the voltage is a mite too low.

Anyway, I decided to give myself the rest of the day off... and BTW, during my test drive, I did notice that the vibration seemed to dissipate quite a bit, so I'll let it go for the time being.

naf

iTrader: (7)

If the CTS shorts and sends a hot signal to the ECM the motor may go into Closed Loop too early and cold start/running will be a problem. A certain amount of time will have to pass before the ECM trips a code. Intermittent problems may not last long enough.

If the pigtail looks good, I'd leave it alone unless it fouls up again. Vacuum issues may cause the same probs. The pigtail is the piece that usually takes a beating, especially with the models that have the AIR tube running directly over it.

Can't help with TunerPro. I use an Autoxray. I tried the whole ALDL thing and was unsuccessful, but I was trying to use it on the earlier carbed motors.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, ever since I fixed that vacuum leak the car has been infinitely better at idle and low speed. I can now heartily recommend Southbay fuel injectors... My engine is very happy with them installed.

I ended up going out to inspect my u-joints when I got bored yesterday... they show no signs of play at all. In the meantime, the car runs and drives well enough that I am not going to stress over it.

Next project is to replace heater control valve. I discovered yesterday that it is not opening. I would also like to start detailing the interior, which is in pretty good shape for a 22 year old car.

She is garaged, and will not see any foul winter weather, but I'll drive her on nice days...

talover111

ternandes u have been an inspiration to me to continue working on my 85 trans am THANK YOU

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the kind words. I'm just having fun. I hope you are, too.

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

Awesome news on getting the car going again! Mine has beden sitting long enough for the gas to start to go bad. I ended up picking up a gold 67 catalina that is taking my spare time and money lol

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Of all things... a 67 Catalina?? Wow.

This vibration thing is weird. Sometimes the car drives as smooth as glass, and others, it vibrates at certain speeds. I'm still wondering if the u-joints aren't the problem. For the price of replacing them, I think I will just do it and see what happens.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Interesting development:

I went to change the heater control valve... when I disconnected the hoses, no coolant came out. I scratched my head for a moment, then I thought back to when I first got the engine running...

My thermostat, upper hose, and thermostat gooseneck had all been clogged with some kind of crystalline substance -- a salt, I suppose... I eventually found the same stuff clogging the heater hose that feeds the control valve out of the throttle body. I flushed it out thoroughly, and voila! I now have plenty of heat.

Here's what's really interesting: After running the engine for a while to check the heater operation, I decided to take her for a drive... she runs so smoothly now that at idle, I can't feel the engine running at all.

Since the CTS is right next to where that coolant flows out of the intake manifold, I wonder if that might explain my weird readings? I have not hooked the laptop back up to verify, but my car is running so well now that I am doing back flips... and the vibration smoothed out a lot too, so I guess it must have been that the tires were sitting for so long.

All I know is, the car runs better now than it ever has. I spent some time cleaning the interior today... I have a long way to go, but the journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Plug your computer back in. Sometimes a motor that's stuck in Open Loop will have the SMOOTHEST idle, because it's running slightly rich. Proximity to the CTS shouldn't cause readings at that extreme end of the scale.

Hopefully, though, all is gravy in the land of VA.

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

Yeah. Right place/right time....couldn't pass it up! It too has a weird vibration that is sometimes in the steering wheel, and sometimes in the seat. I don't know if thats a sign of bad ujoints....I'll find out soon enough I guess. I've never had to replce ujoints so I guess it will be a learning experience. I'm just glad the car came with a FSM Do you still need a MAF? I'm going to Davids today and could probably grab one if needed.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Well, I hooked up a laptop to the ALDL, and everything looks normal. I had a hell of a time getting it all to work (mostly because I am not familiar with TunerPro).

It shows me no error codes and nothing out of normal range, from what I can see.

My CTS reads normal. I am not sure why I got bad readings before, but it could have been that I didn't have the right definitions loaded. All I know is that now the numbers look good.

I'm still going to change the u-joints when I get around to it.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

No, my MAF is fine. U-joints are a snap to replace... especially if you have a press .

If you run into trouble, let me know.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Good deal.

If the factory joints are still in there it's easiest to burn them out with a torch. They're held in with plastic that can be melted out. You'll see when you get the shaft out.

Just make sure to allow some room for the cap to shoot off the end as its heated. Some will lightly pop off, some want to make an impact on the far wall.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I just got back from a test ride after replacing the u-joints. They were not factory, and did not seem to have any play. However, the rear one had a spot at which it would always bind up. I'm thinking that had a lot to do with my problems.

The ride went very well, and the engine was on its best behavior. I did notice that both times that I had let her sit at idle in the garage for long enough for her to run well above 195*, she ran so smooth I couldn't feel the engine run.

I'll have to see how it goes, but I have to say that the u-joints definitely improved things. I get a little vibration if I accelerate hard in all gears, and there is what appears to be a wheel balance vibration at around 65mph. Other than than, she is a lot smoother... at least she was on the check ride.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

Hey, naf, I noticed that although I did not have any readings that showed up as out of spec, there is one reading that makes me wonder... the BLM is now at 150, which, from reading other posts, seems to be too high.

I am not sure what it means or how to interpret it... any thoughts?

KITT1983

iTrader: (3)

my karr had the same problem at 65mph+. I had to balanced the front tires + alignment, the problem is pretty much gone

i think i might replace my u joints as well. they are 30 years old and could be a safety.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

UPDATE

I have been driving this car daily now since my last post. With few exceptions, the engine runs incredibly smooth, and picks up nicely.

I still get some vibrations, some of which I am attributing to the fact that I have a polyurethane trans mount now, because it seems to be a harmonic of a narrow range of engine RPM, and smooths out otherwise.

The high speed vibration is still there, and it seems to be in the rear of the car. Since I rarely drive over 60 MPH, I can live with it for now (too cold to mess with it). I am noticing a minor clunk in the rear end when I step on the gas after coasting for a bit. I did notice that there is about 1/8 of a turn of play in the driveshaft rotation at the pinion. I will probably check bearings and axle end play in the springtime.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The poly mount WILL transmit more engine and drivetrain vibration to the cabin.

Vibration at, or near, 65 is pretty common. One thing to check is the balance of your rear drums (unless you've got rotors?). Slight play in the pinion isn't something to be too alarmed with either.

An aluminum driveshaft installed in my '85 made a slight, but noticeable, improvement in cruising smoothness.

Sorry I don't have an educated opinion on the BLMs right now. It's been several years since I played with the TPI.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I have rear discs. I am going to check the rear axle bearings when the weather gets nice again. In the meantime, I am having fun driving my car.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Figured you might, have fun.

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Wow Ternandes, awesome thread. Read the entire thing tonight, took me several hours, 'cause I like to click on the links and see pics and stuff. Great work!!! How's the steering radio controls working? Have you tried balancing all four tires?

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

I haven't purchased the steering wheel control module yet. I got sidetracked by the other issues that cropped up.

The car has 4 brand new tires that I had mounted and spin balanced right before I put the car on the road. I had thought of having them re-checked, but again, I'll probably wait until spring.