I am going to buy a 3rd gen this spring, and there are plenty available in my area. To get the best I can, I would like help in deciding which year and model to pursue. So I am going to list off the things I need/want, please post up your opinions!
I owned an 81 2nd gen, and liked it to a point. I wish I had done something like this before I bought it, probably would have appreciated it more. On to the stuff...

It will be a commuter/daily driver for about two years
Would prefer low maintenance (which year produces the least headaches?)
Must be a manual
Not so concerned about the engine (v6 vs. v8), but I do not like the swapped in 350's I have looked at. Most are sloppy and who knows what they forgot? Or how much knowledge they have about it.
I will be building an engine (Turbo V6? maybe, I would like to try something different) on the side to go into it after two years. The suspension will be undergoing a major performance conversion at that time as well. I will not be drag racing it, I would like to take it to the NASA league after that work is done for time trial or standard circle track racing.
T-tops are wanted (I know about checking the sealing, anything else?)
Where does rust first show aside from the wheel wells?
I'm a pretty defensive street driver, but do corner hard.

As I said, the people at this site are the experts and could probably save me a couple thousand by helping me into the camaro I will be satisfied with!

Thanks

 

Unless you find a really great deal on an earlier car, or just absolutely love the styling of an earlier model, I'd recommend sticking to a 89-92 car. Not to pick on the earlier cars, but the later cars do everything better. By 1992 you've got 10 years of evolution behind the car, making it a better product.

In general, it doesn't matter if the car has 50k miles, or 200k miles, a V6/low output V8, or a high output 350, a nice thirdgen is going to cost approximately the same money. Usually, when you buy a L98 or LB9/5spd, you get a much better performance car for the money. Just about everything on a L98 car is upgraded over a 2.8 or 3.1L. Of course the 350 was never offered with a 5spd, so if you're dead set on a manual transmission, you're stuck with a 305 at best.

Also, keep in mind in stock form the 700R4 is a stronger transmission then the T5. The 700R4 can be rebuilt to handle more power, the T5 is more commonly swapped for a T56 6spd.

I'd also steer you towards a hardtop unless you're absolutely in love with Ttops. The novelty gets old really fast if you actually use the car for more then just cruising.

 

Thanks for the advice! I am a ford man, I can rattle and recognize their specific parts, but am unfamiliar with gm/chevy. The only one I have ever owned was the 81 camaro. So I am assuming the 700R4 is an automatic tranny? I am set on the manual, my last car was an auto and I got bored real fast with it. So sticking to the 305 or less with a T5 is fine with me.
L98/LB9, is that the engine code? Am I looking for that sequence from the VIN to find those specific engines and what model is most likely to have them.

 

L98 denotes a 350, LB9 denotes a 305 Tuned Port Injection. Look at the 8th character of the VIN, if it is an F it's a 305 and if it's an 8, it's a 350. That didn't change from 85 when TPI came out until 92 when it went away.

 

Think I found it!
http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1559650685.html
Looked it over, I'm not a fan of holley, but I can always revert it. The swap looked clean! No engine light (sensors are all hooked up). I do like the red interior, looks good. I do not understand what a locker rear end means? Body work includes some paint touch-up, wax, and it needs a new set of tires. Total cost if I can talk him down to 1700 would be 2500 w/tires & paint. Good deal?

 

how could all the sensors be hooked up from a throttle bodied 305 to carb'd 350?

it looks good to me. anything special about that 350 or is it just standard bore stock motor? i would think if you wanted reliability you would stick the fuel injected.

 

Looks good from the pictures. Which has been swapped, the engine or the tranny? Remember, no 5-speed with a 350. Engine might actually be a 305.

 

I'd avoid swapped cars unless it's just exactly what you're looking for. For nearly $3k, I'd hold out for an all original TPI car... $3k should buy a nice one. I don't like most people's modifications, you never know if they knew what they were doing or what the car was originally. Most of the time an original unmodified car is a safer bet. Stock parts might not be as fast, but they'll usually be much more reliable.

 

Finally moved and just got the net hooked up! That red camaro was sold before I called on it, oh well. Found a new one to look at, I called and the guy still has it, low interest due to some needed fixes. Link is http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1569006294.html.
Do not like the color and unsure of what he means by nose piece, if it is the bumper, I can actually grab one in perfect shape for fifty bucks. Lights and horn I am confident of being able to fix (and pray it's just a fuse!), and can hopefully junkyard if not find decent deals on the interior pieces and door. Windshield is costly but most are probably pitted anyway, so I was expecting that.
1500 money order may get the deal done. Not a fan of purple, but that is what paint shops are for!

 

From the ad, it sounds like the seller has already done quite a bit of parts changing. So perhaps he's taken care of many of the problems, i.e. heater core. That job is not fun in any car. Who knows what's wrong with the nose since there's a bra covering it. It doesn't look like it has t-tops but hard to tell as the photo isn't that good. The paint probably isn't original and you'll most likely see the original color under the hood on the firewall. It may be just what you're looking for.

 

The brights not working is probably the switch, not a fuse. The headlights are on the same fuse, iirc, so if they work at all it isn't the fuse. May mean the car was stolen at one point (when the break the plastic around the column the brights stop working).

That is a TBI car, which is a rather large step down from a TPI car. In Western WA the nose pieces are not super easy to find, in fact in my local yards it been a long time since I've seen a front bumper cover from a ground effect car. By nose piece he probably means the front bumber cover, but that being damaged probably means accident, so it would be wise to very carefully check the bumper brace and frame rails to make sure they are still ok.

For 1500 it isn't a bad deal, but I wouldn't call it great deal either. Would probably be cheaper to find one in a little better shape and a color you already like.