Electric Hatch will not open,motor is working
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Electric Hatch will not open,motor is working
Recently my hatch, went out... meaning when I push back the little lever in the center console the hatch wont release. It happend all of a sudden, I went to a few different junkyards and got the BOSH relays and tried switching them to see if that was the problem and it would still not open, so I switched the actual levers and tried it with several different relays and it would not still open. Anyone have any other hints? thanks
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Stroudsburg PA
Car: 1987 Z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt/3.23 peg leg :(
did you try and open it with the key behind the license plate to make sure it was the motor not just the switch in the console?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 329
Likes: 0
From: Stroudsburg PA
Car: 1987 Z-28
Engine: 355
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt/3.23 peg leg :(
the hatch works normally (ie: opens and closes by it self with the motor) when you open it from the rear? If so, I'd pull the console apart and check the switch itself.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 200
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From: Munford, TN
Car: 89 z
Engine: Chevy 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.73
The relays you are swapping out only turn on the rear hatch light, at least it does on my 89. I can still operate my hatch release with this relay removed. The hatch relay on mine is behind the driver side kick panel, it is rectangular about 1.5 x 2.5 inches.
Also, since you have a 700R4, the ground side of the relay goes thru the park/neutral switch and then thru the starter motor windings to ground. This means that you must have it in park or neutral and all the starter motor wires must be hooked up correctly. If you need a schematic I can send the one for an 89, good luck.
Also, since you have a 700R4, the ground side of the relay goes thru the park/neutral switch and then thru the starter motor windings to ground. This means that you must have it in park or neutral and all the starter motor wires must be hooked up correctly. If you need a schematic I can send the one for an 89, good luck.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Uncle Chuckles, I did that and I found nothing out of the ordinary I actually broke this relay inside there trying to get it out it has 3 terminals, I didnt really break it but I broke the shell, I assume it still works since the car turns on and runs properly.
I don't know what else to do! ughhhhhh
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Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
[QUOTE=Norwood;3072586]The relays you are swapping out only turn on the rear hatch light, at least it does on my 89. I can still operate my hatch release with this relay removed. The hatch relay on mine is behind the driver side kick panel, it is rectangular about 1.5 x 2.5 inches.
[QUOTE]
Im not entirely sure if that is the same for the 91 models. Although I removed the relay in the hatch area, my light still stayed on.
Not too long ago I bypassed the starter relay and removed VATS from my vehicles system. After bypassing the system the HATCH still worked but then a couple weeks later it just took a shiezakauff. Your saying it could of been me bypassing my starter relay? I'll take a look at the drivers side kick panel to look for a relay.
[QUOTE]
Im not entirely sure if that is the same for the 91 models. Although I removed the relay in the hatch area, my light still stayed on.
Also, since you have a 700R4, the ground side of the relay goes thru the park/neutral switch and then thru the starter motor windings to ground. This means that you must have it in park or neutral and all the starter motor wires must be hooked up correctly. If you need a schematic I can send the one for an 89, good luck.[/
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Two things to check that haven't been mentioned so far. Check the #11 fuse (third column fom left, third row down). Check that the ground wire is still in place from the 10mm screw that attaches the hatch release solenoid to the pull-down unit. The other end attaches to the body below the hatch pull-down unit. The ground MUST be there, since the solenoid is electrically isolated from gound by the guides. And YES your custom bypassing of the starter relay can be the problem too. Pull up the parking brake a couple of clicks and see if it solves the problem.
Lon
Lon
Last edited by lonsal; Sep 29, 2006 at 10:08 PM. Reason: added content
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 3
From: Torrance, CA
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: THE LT1 SWAP SHALL BEGIN!!!!
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: LSD! =(
Two things to check that haven't been mentioned so far. Check the #11 fuse (third column fom left, third row down). Check that the ground wire is still in place from the 10mm screw that attaches the hatch release solenoid to the pull-down unit. The other end attaches to the body below the hatch pull-down unit. The ground MUST be there, since the solenoid is electrically isolated from gound by the guides. And YES your custom bypassing of the starter relay can be the problem too. Pull up the parking brake a couple of clicks and see if it solves the problem.
Lon
Lon
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 200
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From: Munford, TN
Car: 89 z
Engine: Chevy 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.73
The groung wire goes from the solenoid housing to a clip that is wedged in a square hole next to the pull-down assembly. The relay is behind the drivers kick panel attached to the metal panel with a plastic rivet.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
This is the hatch release solenoid. There is a black wire that connects to the end of the solenoid (unfortunately it's not shown in my attached picture). It is the +12v from the switch and relay. The ground wire goes from the black 10mm screw to the body below the pull-down unit.
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/images/404080.jpg
Lon
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/images/404080.jpg
Lon
Supreme Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,581
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Car: 89 IROC Z28
Engine: 357 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Mine wouldn't open Today, and it turned out to be a blown Fuse. The 20 AMP ACC fuse. It also controls the door locks, the courtesy lights and electric mirrors
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Bring it to the meeting Saturday/Christmas dinner. http://www.sc3g.org/thetrack/viewtopic.php?t=385
Lon
Lon
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