Electric Hatch will not open,motor is working

Subscribe
Sep 16, 2006 | 07:05 PM
  #1  
Recently my hatch, went out... meaning when I push back the little lever in the center console the hatch wont release. It happend all of a sudden, I went to a few different junkyards and got the BOSH relays and tried switching them to see if that was the problem and it would still not open, so I switched the actual levers and tried it with several different relays and it would not still open. Anyone have any other hints? thanks
Reply 0
Sep 17, 2006 | 11:49 AM
  #2  
did you try and open it with the key behind the license plate to make sure it was the motor not just the switch in the console?
Reply 0
Sep 17, 2006 | 01:10 PM
  #3  
how's the hatch alignment?
Reply 0
Sep 19, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #4  
Quote: how's the hatch alignment?


it's not aligned properly...... and yes I can open it from the rear where the license plate is. What should I do? any further steps?
Reply 0
Sep 19, 2006 | 08:00 PM
  #5  
the hatch works normally (ie: opens and closes by it self with the motor) when you open it from the rear? If so, I'd pull the console apart and check the switch itself.
Reply 0
Sep 25, 2006 | 10:36 PM
  #6  
The relays you are swapping out only turn on the rear hatch light, at least it does on my 89. I can still operate my hatch release with this relay removed. The hatch relay on mine is behind the driver side kick panel, it is rectangular about 1.5 x 2.5 inches.
Also, since you have a 700R4, the ground side of the relay goes thru the park/neutral switch and then thru the starter motor windings to ground. This means that you must have it in park or neutral and all the starter motor wires must be hooked up correctly. If you need a schematic I can send the one for an 89, good luck.
Reply 0
Sep 29, 2006 | 10:28 AM
  #7  
Quote: the hatch works normally (ie: opens and closes by it self with the motor) when you open it from the rear? If so, I'd pull the console apart and check the switch itself.

Uncle Chuckles, I did that and I found nothing out of the ordinary I actually broke this relay inside there trying to get it out it has 3 terminals, I didnt really break it but I broke the shell, I assume it still works since the car turns on and runs properly.

I don't know what else to do! ughhhhhh
Reply 0
Sep 29, 2006 | 10:47 AM
  #8  
[QUOTE=Norwood;3072586]The relays you are swapping out only turn on the rear hatch light, at least it does on my 89. I can still operate my hatch release with this relay removed. The hatch relay on mine is behind the driver side kick panel, it is rectangular about 1.5 x 2.5 inches.
[QUOTE]

Im not entirely sure if that is the same for the 91 models. Although I removed the relay in the hatch area, my light still stayed on.

Quote: Also, since you have a 700R4, the ground side of the relay goes thru the park/neutral switch and then thru the starter motor windings to ground. This means that you must have it in park or neutral and all the starter motor wires must be hooked up correctly. If you need a schematic I can send the one for an 89, good luck.[/
Not too long ago I bypassed the starter relay and removed VATS from my vehicles system. After bypassing the system the HATCH still worked but then a couple weeks later it just took a shiezakauff. Your saying it could of been me bypassing my starter relay? I'll take a look at the drivers side kick panel to look for a relay.
Reply 0
Sep 29, 2006 | 10:07 PM
  #9  
Two things to check that haven't been mentioned so far. Check the #11 fuse (third column fom left, third row down). Check that the ground wire is still in place from the 10mm screw that attaches the hatch release solenoid to the pull-down unit. The other end attaches to the body below the hatch pull-down unit. The ground MUST be there, since the solenoid is electrically isolated from gound by the guides. And YES your custom bypassing of the starter relay can be the problem too. Pull up the parking brake a couple of clicks and see if it solves the problem.

Lon
Reply 0
Sep 30, 2006 | 12:12 PM
  #10  
Quote: Two things to check that haven't been mentioned so far. Check the #11 fuse (third column fom left, third row down). Check that the ground wire is still in place from the 10mm screw that attaches the hatch release solenoid to the pull-down unit. The other end attaches to the body below the hatch pull-down unit. The ground MUST be there, since the solenoid is electrically isolated from gound by the guides. And YES your custom bypassing of the starter relay can be the problem too. Pull up the parking brake a couple of clicks and see if it solves the problem.

Lon
I checked the LID fuse and it's not blown. Which ground ground wire are you talking about? where exaclty is it located? Is the Hatch release solenoid located in the trunk panel area? or under the steering column? right beneath the driverside lid panel (vinyl lid)?
Reply 0
Oct 1, 2006 | 08:43 PM
  #11  
The groung wire goes from the solenoid housing to a clip that is wedged in a square hole next to the pull-down assembly. The relay is behind the drivers kick panel attached to the metal panel with a plastic rivet.
Reply 0
Oct 1, 2006 | 11:15 PM
  #12  
This is the hatch release solenoid. There is a black wire that connects to the end of the solenoid (unfortunately it's not shown in my attached picture). It is the +12v from the switch and relay. The ground wire goes from the black 10mm screw to the body below the pull-down unit.

http://www.top-downsolutions.com/images/404080.jpg

Lon
Reply 0
Oct 1, 2006 | 11:27 PM
  #13  
Mine wouldn't open Today, and it turned out to be a blown Fuse. The 20 AMP ACC fuse. It also controls the door locks, the courtesy lights and electric mirrors
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2006 | 01:21 AM
  #14  
still not fixed! im stumped
Reply 0
Dec 1, 2006 | 01:40 AM
  #15  
Bring it to the meeting Saturday/Christmas dinner. http://www.sc3g.org/thetrack/viewtopic.php?t=385

Lon
Reply 0
Subscribe