evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Do I need to add any oil to my evaporator?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

NO... Oil ONLY goes in the compressor. The compressor is the ONLY moving part in the system.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Okay, I was reading online and some places said add

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

So to add the oil I remove the compressor, remove thr plug at thr bsck of it, dump out the old oil by rotating the ac pully, then add the same amount thst came out??

kmcn47

you can add oil the same way you add r-12

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

thought oil had to be added to the compressor itsself?

naf

iTrader: (7)

Add it to the compressor and some to the dryer. Oil will circulate through the system as the compressor runs. You should have found some residue in the evaporator and condenser when you took them out and cleaned them?

Some oil comes in a charge can that can be added to a closed system. You don't need that kind now.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

So 5 ounces to the compressor and how much in the dryer? I'm confused o.o

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Added 5 ounces to the compressed today. I tried to get the old oil today and no matter howuch I turned the clutch plate I couldn't get any oil out what so ever

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

I'm gonna add 1 ounce to the dryer later

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Got the system filled. The compressor didn't want to work at first but the shop tinkered with it and it started working then they filled it. They said it wasn't running right because it was cycling to much. Well I got home and hooked up my gauged and put my thermometer in the center vent and the compressed was cycling between 25 pressure and like 50 pressure. Well I added more freon and brought the low side up to 32 pressure and when I checked the thermometer it was sitting at 42 degrees and still dropping at idle. We will see how she fairs going down the road

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

what should the pressure normally be?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I'm going to assume you're measuring the pressure at the dryer...

The pressure varies with the ambient air temp. Generally, between 70-100 degrees ambient, the system pressure is between 22 and 40 PSI, with the pressure increasing with the ambient air temp.

Also, feel the pipes coming out of the evaporator. The inlet (the dryer connection) should be colder than the outlet, but it shouldn't have a coating of ice on it at any time.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

yes i was measureing at the dryer, and okay that makes sense. ill have to feel the pipes tomorrow when i drive it more as its late now but i didnt see any ice forming at all. i know it was moving as the clutch engaged and disengaged. i know the top of the dryer got cold, but thats all i felt, i only felt that because my car was ideling WAY to high, ideling it was sitting at 1500rpm warm and dropped as the clutch kicked in. i have to adjust it somehow

91phoenix

iTrader: (5)

It sounds like they might have been slightly low on Freon to begin with. I like the sound of 42 and dropping some. High 30"s is very good. You do not want air any colder than that because as mentioned above it could try to freeze up.
As for the compressor not cycling to start it could take a little more than a pound of freon to get enough pressure in the system for the low pressure switch to allow the compressor to start cycling. I would not be concerned about that as long as it keeps cycling and isn't leaking.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Well I have some slight ice on the pipe going to the dryer, bad? And it was the outlet. After the evaporator

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Also I did notice thst the compressed does make some noise but I'm assuming it's the clutch so im going to replace it if I need too. But is it normal for the clutch to stay active for some time? I popped the hood when I inspected for ice after like 10 minutes of driving with it on and noticed the clutch stays engaged for around a minute or so, maybe longer then disengagegs for a few before kicking back in, normal?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If I were you, I'd put the gauges back on the system again on both sides. It seems you're either low on refrigerant because you didn't put enough in or the system is losing it. I'll check the chart in a bit.

:edit: The evaporator outlet is the BOTTOM pipe.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

No the system is running like it should besides the ice thing. And the ice formed on top line of the dryer, the one with the screw on fitting

91phoenix

iTrader: (5)

In cooler temperatures I have had a slight frost situation. Never bad and it always melted once the under hood temps came up some. Never in 80 - 90 degree temps though. I was taught to fill based on both High side and Low side pressures. Good Luck with this.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Okay I need alittle more help. The line from the dryer is cold. But the high pressure line below it is hot, not like burning hot but warm, is that normal? Also I heard the noise my compressor was making, but it only makes it really while the cars in gear. I might try to lube the clutch up

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

okay, I put the gauges back on today while it was running and it fluctuated around 30-37? But like I said the clutch isn't disengaging. But I left it on while I had the car off and the pressure didn't drop, but actually rose. It stopped on 60 and stayed there but slowly crept up to alittle over 70. Like 73. Anything? Also I noticed today that the clutch isn't disengaging at all. It's running all the time

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, you got a leak. If you put refrigerant in when you filled it until the pressure was at 42 and now it's down to mid-30s, you've got a leak. Get a bottle of dye and put it in with another can. The dye is like $5 or so and you don't need much. Put it in your coolant, trans fluid, power steering, oil, or whatever. The dye may be able to be seen with the eye (it's kind of orangey), but you really need a black light/bulb to see it.

And the system pressure balances out to one even number when the car is off. It can't stay high in one area and low in another when the refrigerant isn't being circulated.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

No the temp inside the car was 42 lol. When I had that I put in enough freon till the pressure was at 32 on the low side, it's still there but since the clutch isn't cycling and is staying on it won't cycle to the high side

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

High side pressure was like 55 I think when it was cycling

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Ok, I got myself all sorts of confused here... Had to look in 3 books because I haven't seen F-body A/C components in forever and paid any attention. Now that I've found the diagram I was looking for...

1. Evaporator inlet is the bottom line, has the orifice before it.
2. The orifice is supposed to be installed with the small end TOWARDS the evaporator inlet.

Feel the metal line before the orifice tube (I would assume on the condenser side of the low side valve would be safe). Should be warm. I'm assuming it is based on the fact you've said it was. Then it moves to another chart which doesn't make sense the way it's worded in parts, but since you said that the compressor was kicking on, when it was actually cycling, at 55 PSI, it says to replace the pressure cycling switch without discharging the system.
You DID clean the crap out of all of the lines and hoses before you put everything together, right?

There's no way to lube the compressor pulley. Cheapest thing to do would be replacement as you would need a bunch of tools available to take the clutch assembly apart.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Okay so I installed the orifice tube correctly and the evap line is warm while the other is hot, and the pressure switch is on thr canister correct? The one with two prongs? And as far as cleaning the lines I did not clean them out. They looked clean. But like I said it was cycling but then I shut it off for the night and the next day thr compressor kicks on but doesn't cycle off. Just stays on and it still cools great so idk

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Your compressor needs to cycle on and off for the system to work correctly (if the compressor doesn't get turned off when the system is below 20 PSI the evaporator can turn into a block of ice)... Yes, the pressure switch is the big one on the drier.

:edit: Just how much refrigerant did you put in the system? It should have only taken 3 pounds (48 ounces). The system could be overcharged and that's why the pressures are over the limits and the compressor isn't cycling.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Honestly I have no idea, I added the freon according to the gauge. When it was cycling between the points where I thought it was accordingly I stopped.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

When you're charging the A/C system, you do it by the weight of the container. You take an initial weight of the tank and then subtract how much is supposed to go into the system and then stop charging when the weight of the tank or number of cans used is equal to the weight difference of the refrigerant that's supposed to be in the system. Which is why pretty much all closed system charging centers have built-in scales for the charging tank and the unit is set for how many pounds/ounces of refrigerant are supposed to go into the system.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

i still dont understand why it was cycling one night fine but now its not the next morning. what are my options if i did over fill?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

and its still cooling fine, i thought if you overcharged it wouldnt be able to cool correctly?

naf

iTrader: (7)

If it's working, what's your issue?

You didn't properly clean the system out nor did you add the correct amount of coolant. At this point I'd let it go while it works and fix it right if it stops working.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If you overfilled it, the only option is to discharge and evacuate the system again and refill it properly. If you can afford it, take it to an A/C shop and have them double-check the pressures to find out for sure if it's been overfilled or not.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

Well, on max ac and the blower on high, I'm sitting on 39 sitting still, going down the road I get to 32 degrees. Sitting with the fan on blower I hit 37 degrees. But with the fan on low And sitting still I'm sitting at 35

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

well evap froze up on my today, first time its ever done it, althought saturday is the first time iv drien my car out of town since getting it installed and it cooled fine and was actually blowing out 20 degree air out, but today coming home from a 30 mile drive ride, about half way through i noticed my air was starting to get warmer and not blow like it should, hot home and it was froze up, i was able to knock the frost/ice off very easy so it wasnt thick but im not sure what i need to do now.

hotrodjames

I still have the R12 system. but its not blowing cold air. is R12 still legal to use?


how do I check if it has a leak?

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

you need to inject a dye and then look for it, r12 should freeze you out. like i said normally i have white vapor coming out of my vents because its right around freezing lol

kmcn47

i would love working ac, or the money to fix my ac, i have a leek somewhere and need a new compressor lol

ringo234

The compressor is a probable source of leaks. I just bought a new compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube to retrofit to R134A. Doing the change this next week I'm sick of this heat.

kmcn47

i think its the little weird "plug" on the back of the compressor, its still plugged in but its broken and cracked

paulo57509

I'm a little late, but this is a red flag. Did it look like the orifice tube on the right?

kmcn47

i'm sure his ac is fine, after all its been working for what six seven months now?

hotrodjames

ringo234 I live in S. CA also and sick of this heat driving with the windows open on a 100 degree + day. does the original R12 system blow colder air than the new R134 system? I dont want to change it, I want to keep it stock looking I have only 43k miles on my iroc.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

no it was like a black film, I could easily wipe it off and see the orfic screen.

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

mine cost about $100 to fix but I also used my old compressor. All I bought was a new evap canister, green o rings for both refriderdents, te correct r12 ac compressor oil, and had the shop fill my system which I could have done. I wanted them to vacuum it down then fill it but they just filled it.
, and didn't even have it all the way full lol.

kmcn47

yeah but i need the compressor, ines become seized, i'm fairly certain i have the wrong alternator for running a/c as it blew the fusible link both times i tried to run it? and i need some connector for the back of the compressor idk where it goes or what it does but its broken