RE849

dang it, had to stop for a long train today and turned my 91 RS off to keep it cool, flipped the key back to acc (don't know why cause nothing works on acc), when I tried to start it back up it wouldn't do anything although all my electrical was working, felt like the key wasn't making any kind of connection. I've read so many post in the last few hours my eye's are crossed. Seems like the only option for me is to take the steering column apart and after reading all the post that is a job in itself, guess I'll have it towed in to the dealer Monday, need to get this done as the car is sitting outside with the windows down and I can't get them to roll up (guess the key needs to be in a certain position) plus the car is stuck in Park.
Pretty sure it's the dealer or try it myself but if anyone has anything to add I would be glad to read it

RE849

Well, I took a shot at it, so far I've broken the airbag clockspring and have lost the c ring that holds the plate on (the damn thing went flying down my defroster vent), the interesting thing is my car is a 91 and the key has a chip in it, the parts guy at the dealership tells me 3rd gens don't have chips in the keys, so now I'm looking for an airbag clockspring from a 93, I guess. Does anyone know if the airbag coils are the same for 91 & 93. the ignition cylinder lock I put in today is for a 93. I'm looking tonight for the airbag clockspring for a 93 but not having much luck. thanks to all who post, I wouldn't have tried this without your knowledge.

RE849

I don't suppose anyones got one of those c rings laying around, heh?

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

your dealerships parts guy isnt too knowledgeable on these cars then,

yes your car has a "chip" in the key, its actually a resistor, once you get down to your ignition lock cylinder you should see that two tiny wires are broken and not making connection, only way to fix is to repair it there(replace maybe?) or bypass which is the easiest way

sorry for your luck with breaking and loosing some parts but you will get it back together

you can get those c clips and most hardware stores, buy an assortment pack, if you have a harbor freight near you they have big assortments of c clips

RE849

I'm looking at the old ignition cylinder lock right now and the two white wires seem fine, I heard it may be a clip inside the cylinder that breaks, either way I've got a new one for a 93 in there now and if the dealership was wrong it probably won't work, not to mention I just bought an airbag spring clock for a 93 also. I'm going to look for info on the resistor your mentioned for our keys. thanks for your thoughts.

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

Wait you said you can't get the windows to roll up and you cant get the car out of park?

The key was turning in the cylinder right?

waltersb

The windows will roll up with the key in the 'on' position. You can get the car out of park with the key in the on position as well. If this doesn't work then you're dismantling the steering column anyway. It means there's a linkage problem to the ignition switch or it's an ignition switch problem. This is going on the assumption you've checked all the fuses already since that could be the problem also. You have a resister in your key as stated. The two wires in my cyllinder are broken, I bypassed this by measuring the resistance in the key and matching that with some sodered together resistors and plugging them into the wiring hardness for the key cyllinder further down the column... but that doesn't really sound like your problem.

brando54009

i had this happen on my 93 Buick and it turned out to be a security system malfunction. you could try just direct wiring power to your starter, if the car starts for like a half a second and then shuts off that will be your issue. the mechanic who finally figured it out just disabled the system and it works like a dream

RE849

Yeah, the key goes to the on position but it feels like it's going there freely, not making any connection. I'm going to try and put the steering wheel back on today without the airbag stuff, now that I have the new ignition cylinder in there, maybe I can get the windows rolled up and either push it or drive it into the garage.
I read last night that the VATS didn't start til 89 so I'm wondering how many people on here have a 91 RS with a resistor on their key? The parts guy said he ran my vin number and my car doesn't call for an ignition key with a resistor.
thanks again for all the replies.

stealtht/a

iTrader: (1)

The dealer doesn't know what he's talking about. All third gens had vats security from 89-91. But that's not your issue. A poor elec connection would only keep it from starting. The fact that you can't get it out of park means the actual lock cylinder is broken. It's doubtful you need a new clock spring, but you need a new cylinder. You will have to find one that is 89-91 Vats compatible or bypass the vats as described above with a resistor. They prob don't have one at the dealer, eBay or classifieds here.

RE849

I think I'm done with this, so far I've spent $125 for a new ignition cylinder and key, $90 for a tow, $15 for rental tools and $10 for the darn snap ring that holds the locking plate. I put the new ignition cylinder in, put everything back together except the airbag stuff and the cars doing the same thing. So maybe it wasn't my ignition cylinder at all. All the post I'm reading says to get my voltmeter out and start checking things that I don't know where or what they are, not to mention my time, 5 hrs yesterday, 3 today and counting. I would have liked saving the money by doing it myself but if I would have had it towed to the dealer Monday I would probably be driving it today, time to let a pro work on it while I work on my short game. Thanks for trying to help y'all

Caveman305

iTrader: (8)

If your ignition cylinder is turning and nothing is working (ie, windows, no shifting) i would think its your ignition switch, not the cylinder, I think they are about $35 and less than an hour to swap out of you are inexperienced with it, don't throw in the towl just yet, take a breather and come back to it

RE849

okay, I'm going to put my old ignition cylinder back in and try to get my money back on the new one. when I try to change the ignition switch do I just loosen the two bolts under the dash holding the column up or do I have to also loosen the bolts by the firewall and out in the engine compartment? thanks for any reply.

RE849

a little research later, remove two bolts holding bracket on, remove two more bolts holding column and let drop, then remove back half of switch before removing the rest of it. will give it a try.

waltersb

When you let the column drop, be careful about the stuff at the base of the column. I broke my cruisecontrol switch twice. (right beside the brake switch) because I wasn't careful about it. Not talking about the steering wheel one... there's one activated by the brake pedal etc... (well at least that's how I think I broke it)

waltersb

Did I mention I learned how to do this: 1 my VATS failed because one of those 2 wires broke.... and 2 ****suckers broke my column trying to steal it. And then when I replaced the plastic housing for the for the column it wasn't the right size for the key cyllinder and didn't have the slot for the vats wires so they broke again.... I wish you all the luck man.

But right now my car is under a cover... moldy interior. Rear hatch motor is broke, headliner is screwed, engine bay is all oxidized... no money or time to work on it

RE849

whoa Walter, I feel your pain dude, I've got steering column parts laying all over that car, there's no doubt in my mind it's not going to work when/if I ever get it back together again.
I finally got the ignition switch out, had to take a couple other things apart so I could get at the bolts, don't know what they were but will cross that bridge later. My problem is this ignition switch actuator, I can't remember how it attaches to the switch, does it go under the switch or does it go over the top? I think mine may be bent and that could be my no start problem; when I put the car in acc the actuator must have come out of the switch. Does anyone know if I have to buy a new actuator rod or can I just bend the one I have?
The bummer is we've got the Dream Cruise coming up in two weeks here in MI, at the rate I'm going I'll never make it.

waltersb

That's a pretty simple rod I think. Don't remember how it attaches to the ignition switch, probably just a zigzag like a door lock rod.... the hard part is getting it all back together with the cam and the spring and the little screw and the slider and the steering wheel lock pin etc...

Arvizu9618

iTrader: (1)

Sans the VATS, I've had the same problem in my '85. Turns out a linkage comes loose when I go into ACC. I'm able to luckily reattach it with some needle nose pliers and just dropping the hush panel. Like you, nothing on my car works in ACC, but I can't drill that into my son's head :| BTW, I hot wired my power windows also, Never need the key for them any more.